Tuck into som tam

Khon Kaen city’s favourite local restaurant, Kai Yang, has a huge menu of Thai standards and regional dishes. Top choice is the grilled chicken, served with spicy Thai salad – made from shredded green papaya, beans, garlic, peanuts, cucumber seasoned with lots of lime juice. Papaya was introduced into Ayutthaya in the 16th century by the Portuguese, but Isaan locals regard it as one of their own special dishes, so there’s nowhere better to try it.