Northeast Thailand: the Best Things to See and Do in Isaan

Khon Kaen city’s favourite local restaurant, Kai Yang, has a huge menu of Thai standards and regional dishes. Top choice is the grilled chicken, served with spicy Thai salad – made from shredded green papaya, beans, garlic, peanuts, cucumber seasoned with lots of lime juice. Papaya was introduced into Ayutthaya in the 16th century by the Portuguese, but Isaan locals regard it as one of their own special dishes, so there’s nowhere better to try it.

Lush forests, waterfalls, wild-gibbon calls, flocks of macaques, glimpses of elephants – even clouded leopards or a tiger… Khao Yai National Park is one of the top wildlife spots in Thailand. Tours are easy to organise through agencies in the closest town, Pak Chong, or Bangkok, and usually include light treks and waterfall swims. Top tip: bring repellent and wear trousers tucked into long socks after rain when leeches are rife.

The Thais are crazy about football. Any local will talk enthusiastically about the English Premier League. People everywhere dress casually in the red and white of Manchester United, the most popular team in Thailand, or the blue of Thai-owned Leicester City. Buriram United is Isaan’s best local team, and the first club in Thai football history to win all the domestic trophies.

The largest open-air market in Isaan is a 10-minute tuk tuk ride from the centre of Nakhon Ratchasima, the biggest city in Isaan. Aim to spend a day wandering by the stalls and kiosks or, better still, a night: Saveone comes alive after dark when flaming woks flash and crowds hunt for bargains and after-work street food. A portion of pad Thai will cost you mere coins – and as for clothes and electronic accessories, they’re as cheap and varied as at the Chatuchak weekend market in Bangkok.

Here’s one of the most beautiful temples in Southeast Asia – a stupendous remnant of the Khmer empire and a former Hindu temple, built of pink sandstone with roots in the 10th century. Balanced on the rim of an extinct volcano, it has architecture reminiscent of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, while lavish carvings and spiritual scenes have been etched painstakingly onto the walls.

Sala Kaew Ku is home to some of the most visually striking statues in Thailand: traditional icons of the Theravada Buddhist religion include the Buddha and the nationally symbolic seven-headed naga serpent. There are many more scenes on display – look for an elephant among a pack of dogs, a lesson in ignoring gossip. You’ll see statues rising 82ft (25m) into the sky, and learn fascinating details about Thai and Buddhist culture.

It translates, roughly, as temple of the mountain – and that’s exactly what you’ll find at Wat Phu Tok, a temple rising more than 1,000ft (305m) into the sky. Get here before the day gets too hot, so you can tackle the seven levels of the mountain – the number symbolises Buddhism’s seven levels of spiritual enlightenment. The ladders, steps and platforms might look daunting, but it’s not too challenging – and you’re rewarded with curious caves along the way, as well as great views at the top.

Coinciding with Thailand’s Asanha Bucha national holiday is Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival. Huge, ornately carved beeswax candles – the biggest you’ll ever see – are paraded through town, judged on their beauty and design as they’re transported to temples. There’s a party atmosphere and market stalls to rummage through.

This bustling menagerie, with shows and an upbeat waterpark, is the largest of its kind in Thailand, and a top ticket for kids, parents, and even grandparents. Rest assured you’re visiting one of the most ethically sound animal attractions in the country – the focus is on animal welfare, and wildlife preservation is a key mission statement. So relax and enjoy the creatures on display, among them lions and rhinos, plus the waterpark rides and pools.

Northeastern Thailand isn’t short on natural beauty, but Than Thip waterfall surely nets the gold medal. Just beyond Isaan, near the Mekong river, it’s a doddle to do for a day trip. Immersed in thick, atmospheric Thai jungle, it’s the highest in the province. One of the main reasons for coming is to take a cooling plunge after that hot and sticky journey here – of course, it’s terrific Instagram material. Top tip: think twice about visiting at weekends or once schools finish, when the crowds swell.