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The traffic and commotion of downtown Amman shouldn’t put you off spending time in one of the most lively and authentic parts of the city. In addition to the fascinating historical sites of the Roman amphitheatre and citadel, downtown is home to a plethora of shops, markets, and traditional souqs. Here we review some of the best places to eat whilst in the area.

Downtown Amman

Hashem

Restaurant, Middle Eastern

Hashem restaurant
© Freedom's Falcon/Wikicommons
A veritable Ammani institution, Hashem is one of the oldest restaurants in the capital, much revered for its no-nonsense philosophy and simple, hearty food. Famed for its incredibly speedy service, you may be hard-pushed to find a table at meal times. Everyone is served the same meal of traditional Jordanian fare, the falafel is considered by many to be the finest in the country. Don’t be put off by the simple furnishings and strip lighting. Hashem’s is an essential downtown experience, and you won’t find a better value meal elsewhere. Perfect for vegetarians.

Jafra

Cosy, if a little boisterous as the evening progresses, Jafra restaurant is tucked away in the backstreets of downtown Amman, so hidden that you might need a guide to locate it. As is so often the case, however, perseverance is duly rewarded here, with welcoming staff, excellent food, and an impressive range of shisha, coffees, and juices. A traditional menu of mezzes caters well to vegetarians. Their freshly cooked bread and labneh (strained yoghurt) are particularly mouth-watering. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Jafra appeals to every taste.
Address: al-Amir Mohammad Street, Downtown, Amman. +962 6 462 2551

Labneh

Zorba

Restaurant, Seafood

Downtown street food
© yeowatzup/Wikicommons
Situated on Basman Street, Zorba restaurant is popular not for its simple décor, but for the friendly staff and excellent quality traditional food. Fresh, generous portions make this place good value for money. Their range of hot and cold mezze comes particularly recommended. Light and airy, Zorba is open until late and caters well to large groups. They also serve excellent seafood dishes.

Al Quds

A simple restaurant with a simple menu and excellent flavours, Al Quds is understandably popular with the downtown crowd. Offering generous portions and reasonable prices, the mansaf – a traditional Jordanian dish featuring lamb and rice, is especially popular. It’s slightly hectic and rough round the edges, but you can’t knock the food. The kebabs and sweet desserts are excellent too.
Address: 8 King Hussein Street, Downtown, Amman. +962 6 463 0168

Habibah Sweets

The finest sweet shop in the downtown area, Habibah Sweets are a company of historic sweet-makers who clearly take a lot of pride in their sugary craft. Offering the full range of Middle Eastern sweet delicacies, this establishment is a must-visit for all sweet-toothed tourists in the city. Its baklava is exquisite; similarly, you won’t find better kanafa (a cheese pastry soaked in a sugary syrup) many places in the region. An imaginative selection of ice creams are also on offer.
Address: 2 Al Hazar Street, Amman. +962 6 552 0629

Baklava

About the author

Shaahin was born in southeast England, and has mixed British and Iranian heritage. Spending many childhood summers in Tehran visiting family, he developed the outlook (and neuroses) of cultural comparatist from a young age - traits that have informed the trajectory of his adult life. Reading European and Middle Eastern Languages and Literature at the University of Oxford, and subsequently completing a Masters in modern Persian literature and Arabic, he has nurtured these interests which he hopes to advance with further graduate study. He has also taught English in Spain, travelled around much of South America, and studied in Tehran for a year, where he hopes to return in the coming months.

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