South America’s most unusual capital city has got to be Santiago. From bizarre street art, a surprising take on the hot dog and odd plaza performers, Santiago, Chile knows how to get its quirk on.
Try a Terremoto at La Piojera, Santiago
Bar, Chilean
There’s no place quite like La Piojera, Santiago’s treasured dive bar. If you can stomach the stench of wine-drenched floors, you’ll find the rowdy clientele great for a laugh. Make sure to order the typical Chilean drink, the earth-shaking terremoto, or “earthquake,” which includes a white wine called pipeño, pineapple ice cream and either grenadine or fernet.
Thirty minutes sitting on one of the Plaza de Armas benches is all you need to catch a multitude of unusual sights, sounds and smells. From the hordes of pigeons, street evangelists, living statues and lively Chinchinero percussionists, don’t forget to bring your camera to this historic city center.
Eat the most loaded hot dog you've ever seen
Architectural Landmark
Chileans like to do hot dogs differently. Whether you order a regular completo (hot dog with sauerkraut, chopped tomatoes and gobs of mayonnaise) or a completo italiano (tomatoes, mushed avocado and mayonnaise, resembling the Italian flag), prepare yourself for a whole lot of toppings. Be sure to grab extra napkins when you order.
Explore the unusual street art of the vibrant neighborhood Barrio Yungay. Through the bicycle tour company Bicitur, visitors can learn about the local street art as well as the various indigenous groups that have called Chile home.
Visit the Bahá’í House of Worship of South America
Proudly sitting on the foothills of the Andes mountains is the new Bahá’í House of Worship of South America. This curious temple offers stunning views and a sense of peace away from the hustle and bustle of Santiago.
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Londres 38
Step inside a former dictatorship detention center at Londres 38, the name and address of a historic complex in downtown Santiago. In the 1970s, Londres 38 was where many Chileans were tortured and killed at the start of the Pinochet dictatorship. Ominous and largely empty, this chilling space includes political propaganda on the walls and also offers information on the human rights violations that occurred during Pinochet’s 17-year rule.
Featuring odd items and artwork the famous poet collected during his life, La Chascona is an ode to Pablo Neruda’s life and quirks. With an inside pass into the famous Chilean poet’s house, you can dream about what this soulful world traveler and eccentric lover was all about.
Taste gourmet indigenous cuisine at Peumayen Ancestral Food
Restaurant
Indigenous groups and gourmet cuisine merge at this unique restaurant in Santiago’s Bellavista neighborhood. At Peumayen Ancestral Foods, Argentine chef Juan Manuel Pena Passaro has created modern dishes based on flavors from the region’s Mapuche, Rapa Nui and Aymara people.
Go to a controversial military restaurant
Restaurant, German
The sausage and sauerkraut is hard to beat at the Lili Marleen restaurant, where you can find the city’s best German fare. That’s if you can stomach the restaurant’s commemoration of Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet. Thousands were exiled, tortured and killed during the military dictatorship, making the General one of Latin America’s most controversial figures, whose legacy defines contemporary Chilean democracy.
See a live performance at GAM
Building, Museum, Theater
From theater to film screenings, indigenous language workshops to dance recitals, there’s always something interesting happening at GAM, the Gabriela Mistral center for arts and culture. The center brings in both national and international acts for affordable performances, right in the center of the city. The free Museum of Popular American Art is also held underground in the main GAM building. Meanwhile, the cultural center is ripe for people-watching. You could fill up a whole afternoon sipping on a latte at GAM’s café and looking out at the practicing performers and schoolchildren.
Dance to a live cumbia band at La Peña del Nano Parra
Named after Chilean musician Fernando Báez Parra, nephew of famed Chilean poet Nicanor Parra, this gritty Bellavista venue is where to find a great party and live Chilean bands. Put on your dancing shoes and don’t forget to bring cash to buy yourself a piscola (cola and pisco) mixed drink — a Chilean tradition.
This beautiful up-and-coming neighborhood hasn’t yet attracted the masses and manages to maintain a genuinely relaxing vibe. Barrio Italia’s quiet, shaded houses have slowly morphed into trendy shops, cafés and bars, though it’s still surrounded by an overwhelmingly residential area. Walking through Barrio Italia, you’re bound to stumble on something interesting, or a fun place to grab a bite or a drink.
March in a student protest
Architectural Landmark, Historical Landmark
Walk a mile in the shoes of Chile’s student protestors. Since 2011, Chilean students have been organizing protests demanding structural improvements to the heavily-criticized education system. Education is a major political issue in Chile, where the difference in schooling between the rich and poor is stark. Learn more about the cause, and if you feel emboldened to join these guys in the streets, don’t be shy. Protests are generally very safe and open, though it is recommended to avoid the tail of any march and to leave once you’re done marching. Minor isolated violence tends to break out between local police and small groups of hooded protestors.
Grab lunch at Rincón de las Canallas
Restaurant
With offbeat décor and a fascinating history, Rincón de las Canallas is one of Santiago’s best kept secrets. During the oppressive days of the dictatorship, when there were strict rules about group meet-ups, restaurant owner Don Victor Painemal decided he would open his restaurant doors, providing a safe space for people to eat and share with one another. Though the original restaurant was burned down by the authorities, the community the place had created lived on and encouraged Painemal to open up another restaurant, the building standing today.
This expansive, gritty market is a great place to pick up locally-grown fruits and vegetables, like the juicy cherimoya. Buy directly from local farmers and taste some of Chile’s very best produce. For prepared food, traditional Chilean dishes like cazuela are served at small restaurants at the back left section of the market at a low price. If you’re lucky, a local musician will serenade you as you wait for your food. Do make sure to leave the area early in the day, since shops close up around 2PM and the neighborhood becomes unsafe in the evenings.
Order a gin and tonic at Ruca Bar
Bar, Restaurant, Pub Grub, Mediterranean, European
Offering a hip ambiance tucked away in the peaceful and charming Barrio Italia, Ruca Bar is a wonderful spot to relax and unwind with Chileans and expats alike. Do arrive early on Thursdays. Tables fill up fast due to their generous happy hour, which offers gin and tonics for only a luca (less than two dollars).
Thrifting at Persa Bío Bío
Take the yellow metro line to the Franklin stop and wander around Persa Bío Bío’s giant warehouses, or galpones, filled with oddities, records, old clothing, furniture, instruments and more. In addition to the shopping, this place fills up with some interesting characters and you can even catch live music on the streets.
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