The Best Restaurants and Trattorias in Cagliari, Sardinia

The self-styled “King of Tuna”, Luigi Pomata heads this sleek fine dining restaurant in the city centre. Born and raised in tuna fishing capital Carloforte on San Pietro Island, just off the south coast of Sardinia, many of the dishes here are an homage to the fish dubbed “the chicken of the sea” – just don’t call it that in front of Pomata. For true seafood aficionados, look no further the highly prized Sardinian tarantello tuna, simply served in a tin, preserved in olive oil.

Once upon a time, this cosy, marina-side joint was an unassuming pub and pizzeria – but, thanks to head chef Roberto Raccis, it has since evolved into a sophisticated seafood bistro. The success of this new direction is in keeping things simple – from using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, to cutting out any fiddly food styling. Expect dishes such as trofie with clams, courgette flowers and saffron, or sea bass cooked in Sardinian Vernaccia wine.

The magic of Cagliari is stumbling upon little hidden gems like this jolly, homespun little restaurant, tucked well away from the tourist trail down a narrow, residential alley-like street. With its beamed ceilings and crumbling limestone walls, it has a cavern-like feel, but the food is anything but primitive. The delicate seafood ravioli, dressed in a tangy tomato sauce is delicious, washed down with a glass of crisp house white.

This pizza-by-the-slice place is where Cagliari’s working locals head for a quick – and cheap – lunch on the go. The pizza flies out as fast as it can be cooked, so you know it’s always going to be fresh. The focaccia-style base is soft, fluffy and surprisingly filling – especially when you factor in the toppings, which Nansen goes big on, from the more traditional mozzarella and basil to heavy-hitting combos such as potato and sausage.

You might be thinking that Dan doesn’t sound particularly Sardinian – and you’d be right, in a way. But this trattoria-cum-bistro is actually named after the warriors of Sher-Dan who once inhabited the island, and is Sardinian to its core. We’d say it was just breads, meat and cheese, but that would be doing a disservice to the exceptional quality of the cold cuts, roasted pork and lamb, and crusty, still-warm loaves they serve up. This is simple, rustic dining, done to perfection.

Set up, encouragingly, by Sardinia’s more recent generation of restaurateurs, this young gastrobar has already been firmly embraced by the locals. And it’s easy to see why: stylish, timeless decor – think parquet flooring and bare plaster walls hung with antique mirrors and vintage photos – a prime location near the marina and beautifully executed dishes served at inexpensive prices. A daily changing menu keeps things fresh, so move fast for entrees such as four cheese pasta with aubergine parmigiana.

How do you know when the seafood is really fresh? When the restaurant doesn’t have a menu – as the kitchen is waiting on the catch of the day before deciding what it’s going to cook. This might sound a bit wacky, but it’s a formula that’s served this modest little trattoria – and its patrons – well since the 1930s. From whitebait fritters to spaghetti with sweet little clams and salty, pungent bottarga, seafood is the star here.

If you like your food with a view, you’ll love this place – spread out on a terrace of the city’s hilltop bastion. You’ll need to book at least a day ahead if you want to eat, especially during high season, but it’s worth the faff – particularly for the crispy pork belly with rosemary potatoes, or the traditional Sardinian fregula pasta with mussels in a herby dressing. Or, if you want to keep things casual, you can’t go wrong with some antipasti and an Aperol spritz.