A Guide To Visiting The Orozco Murals In Guadalajara

Little known outside of Mexico, the muralist José Clemente Orozco was one of the “Big Three” painters, along with Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros. His striking, often macabre artwork was characterized by his extensive use of black and deep reds, portraying an anger at social injustice in Mexico and beyond. But Orozco also had a subtle eye for detail that is only really revealed when you take a closer look at his paintings. Although there are examples of his art in New York and California, his true masterworks are found in the public buildings of Guadalajara.

Orozco’s home

Where better to start an Orozco tour of Guadalajara than in the artist’s former workshop and home? Opened by Orozco’s widow Margarita Valladares in 1951, El Museo Taller José Clemente Orozco contains a number of his paintings and the panels on the walls provide additional information on his life. Inspired by the great satirical illustrator José Guadalupe Posada, Orozco learned at a young age that art could be a tool to challenge the powerful. Yet his life and career were derailed at the age of 21, when he injured his left hand while working with gunpowder to make fireworks. Gangrene set in and his hand and wrist were amputated to save his life.

As he healed from the injury and loss, Mexico was also experiencing a period of great upheaval. A revolution was brewing that would mark Orozo’s worldview forever.

Unlike Diego Rivera, who viewed the Revolution as an entirely positive development, Orozco took a darker view. His artwork reflects his worries about the massive death toll of the conflict that lasted from 1910 until 1920.

Casa Taller José Clemente Orozco, Aurelio Aceves 27, Arcos Vallarta, Guadalajara, Mexico +52 01 333 616 8329

The frescoes in the Instituto Cultural Cabañas

This concern with violence is powerfully reflected in Orozco’s masterpiece in Guadalajara’s Instituto Cultural Cabañas. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this elegant Guadalajara building was once used as an orphanage and hospital. The walls and ceilings of the building are lined with 57 frescoes that take aim at authority figures and depict history as a brutal, bloody struggle.

A Spanish conquistador is depicted astride a two-headed horse, the blood-stained bodies of indigenous Mexicans laying at his feet. The shadowy figure of Philip II, the King of Spain, stares out at the bloodshed from behind an imposing wooden cross.

It is clear these struggles were not simply historical for Orozco. A terrifying robot horse gallops through the painting, awakening a terrifying sense that industry and technology have the power to enslave us all.

The most famous fresco in the collection is known as “Man of Fire,” and depicts a man being consumed by flames – destroyed but invigorated by this final blaze of glory.

As visitors pass through the building, there are clever visual illusions: heads appear to turn and mechanisms seem to move.

The Government Palace

A smaller dose of Orozco murals can be found in the Palacio de Gobierno, or Government Palace, near the cathedral. “The People and Its Leaders” mural is found above the main staircase and depicts the revolutionary leader wielding a flaming torch to ignite the independence movement.

Hidalgo is celebrated in a second mural in the building’s Chamber of Deputies, where he frees Mexico’s slaves by signing the word “freedom” – albeit with a deep, blood red that suggests the human cost of this breakthrough.

Palacio de Gobierno, Ramón Corona 31, Zona Centro, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico +52 01 333 668 1825

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.