Culture and Creativity Stays in Newquay Well Beyond Summer

The accepted image of modern Cornwall is binary. During summer it’s England’s finest stretch of coast, understandably overflowing with tourists. For the rest of the year its handsomeness becomes rugged and battered by the elements.

The tourists empty out, villages and towns become ghostly, local businesses flounder and Cornwall slips into a yearly hibernation among the coves and crags of its rocky outline.

Well, that isn’t true. Cornwall has an identity free of those who call it home for a couple of weeks a year. The Celtic culture here is among the oldest on the British Isles. It is a place steeped in history just as much as it is bathed in natural beauty.

Contrary to some stereotypes, Cornwall has its own ecosystem free from the shackles of summer tourism. Humble and oozing with coastal charm, there are plenty of community hubs celebrating all that this unique slice of England has to offer.

That’s not to deny the fact that tourism has been the dominant economic factor here for a long, long time. Nor is it to deny that second-home hoarding and external property development has squeezed Cornish culture – and financial feasibility for many local residents – into a very uncomfortable, sometimes scary place. Lots of local businesses do struggle out of season, some villages have been holiday-homed to the point of winter abandonment.

Perhaps it’s apt, then, that arguably the most famous tourist town in Cornwall is leading the charge when it comes to celebrating community and culture every week of the year.

That was certainly my experience this November as I made the journey down to Newquay for a weekend getaway. I was keen to see what Cornwall looked like, felt like, out of season. My time in Kernow was short but more than sweet enough to show me that, whether you’re a local or a visitor, Newquay is a delightful place to be come autumn and winter.

Of course the weather is variable, but even in summer you’re naive to expect consistent sunshine on a trip in the UK. The spectacular beauty of Cornwall remains just as beautiful in wind and rain, under cloud or plunged in fog. In fact, it’s probably enhanced. The beaches are more sparse, the ocean’s rumble becomes increasingly atmospheric, and a quaint sense of cosiness comes from that warming cup of tea after a day out in the elements.

If Cornish summer is a postcard, then winter is a Turner painting; soulful, spiritual, authentic.

The truth is that it isn’t just floppy haired surfers and hardcore hikers who can hack it here. Weather is weather and most people can cope with it. Our stay had spots of sunlight and plenty of cloud, a fair bit of blustery blows and blitzes of rain, but that didn’t stop us from admiring the gorgeous coastal views along the walk to Watergate Bay, or even from legging it in and out of the sea at Porth Beach. In fact, we felt fabulous for it.

To dispel myths even further, it’s important to note that Newquay can be a wonderful place to visit even if you prefer being indoors.

That’s because the town has become a hive of local activity. Cultural events, artsy workshops and community hangouts have become a constant on local calendars, particularly during our visit, which coincided with November’s Be Newquay Festival. This brand new cultural venture celebrates the curiosity and creativity that burns bright within all those living in and visiting Cornwall.

From Cornish born-and-bred to sea-loving retirees and surfing youngsters, digital nomads and wandering artists, this town attracts an eclectic bunch. Yet for all the variety, an unmistakable shared identity seems to flow through them all – a deep love for the soul-soothing power of the ocean, a yearning for community spirit and a mind as open as an exposed Cornish headland.

Something like Be Newquay couldn’t exist without these people and, despite being a debut year, it was clear to me that this was a natural fit. I suspect it will become a staple of the Newquay calendar for years to come.

Throughout November there have been painting workshops, Nordic spa evenings and dance performances. Street art murals have been sprayed, stories told both old and new, wine mulled and duefully guzzled as artists of every kind – from circus performers to organists, painters, dancers and actors – dazzle with creativity.

The sheer amount of things to see, do and experience here on a random November weekend was rather extraordinary for a relatively small town. A glance at the December page on Cornwall 365’s website suggests the festivities continue well beyond November, too.

The highlight of our trip was undoubtedly a morning spent pottering at Tor Pottery Works, an utterly charming venture run by Jenna and Danielle, who have cultivated a truly warm, empowering creative space where the tea and conversation is just as valuable as the ceramics.

Most impressively of all they managed to turn me, a man normally incapable of creating anything beyond a toddler’s skillset, into someone who now cannot wait for my own, distinctly unique, imperfect-but-functional pinch-pot mug to arrive in the post. A particularly miraculous feat considering they only opened the place a year ago.

From multi-week courses to taster days, workshops and private events, the pair offer a host of ceramic-based activities for kids and adults alike. Whether you fancy pinching, painting or throwing, a visit to Newquay is not complete without a few hours in the company of Jenna and Danielle.

Later that evening we embarked on a uniquely Newquay experience, joining a sold out crowd of wrapped-up explorers for To The Moon & Back, a wonderfully elaborate tour of the town with a twist. Centred around the folkloric tales surrounding Newquay, this immersive two-hour experience took us all on a journey around town and into the stories hidden around every corner.

It was a thoroughly charming way to spend an evening, and the surprising scale of the whole experience is a testament to the passion that local people here have for the arts. What struck me more than the stories, the dancing or the craftwork on display, was the sheer quantity of people involved, and the effort that had clearly been put in. Local businesses, public gardens, the church, even someone’s apartment, all had a part to play.

There were so many people involved; guides, dancers, lighting and sound folk, a horde of impressively well-choreographed teenagers, not to mention the audience, large enough that we had to be split into three groups, and that wasn’t the only performance of the night.

It was heartwarming to see folks braving the rain in the name of creativity. This was a celebration of Cornish storytelling through the centuries, but it was also a celebration of the communal experience, of performance and expression, of the living, breathing ecosystem that exists beneath the surface of any place. Tales of old told by locals present, continuing the story of a town with far more to it that stags and hens.

On a more practical level, there is plenty to love about visiting Newquay “off-season”. Our Friday afternoon drive down from Cardiff was totally traffic free – an impossibility in the middle of summer – there were plenty of spaces to park in town, everything was less crowded, felt more local, and accommodation tends to be cheaper.

Our home for the weekend was a brand-new hilltop gem called SeaSpace, opened in October this year as the town’s first seafront apartment-hotel. A chic twist on classic coastal aesthetics, the apartments cater perfectly for couples, families and even furry friends. Most notable is the hotel’s position on the northern outskirts of Newquay, giving every flat a rather special view of its epic zig-zagging coast.

Again, what struck me most about SeaSpace was not the view, the design or even the fantastic indoor pool. Instead, it was that this place felt like a real community space, with genuine value to Newquay, its residents and visitors alike.

Tallo restaurant and bar downstairs is run by the folks at Harbour Brewing and Treleavens Ice Cream – staple names in Cornwall and champions of excellent local produce. The cafe is stocked with a mouth-watering selection of pastries and cakes provided by a local bakery, who also deliver fresh bread to the in-house larder – a handy self-checkout shop where you can stock your apartment with the basics, Cornwall-style.

Treatment rooms and fitness studios are used by local practitioners and independent businesses, while a partnership with UK Padel brings one of the world’s fastest growing sports to Newquay.

All of those leisure facilities, including a gym and the pool, are available to locals as well as guests. What became clear throughout our stay was that SeaSpace was also a community hub. Friends came here to play padel, hikers interrupted their coastal walk with a coffee, young families came for lunch at the cafe, post-work drinks were being had at the bar. Even the hotels here have an identity free from tourism…

SeaSpace, just like Tor’s Pottery Workshop or Olla Hiki Sauna or Street Food at The Boathouse, was ingrained into the fabric of modern Newquay. Even in November there was a lovely, gentle buzz to the place. The hotel supports local businesses and, in turn, the locals support the hotel. It is a refreshing feeling to have in a hotel lobby.

But that was clearly a common theme of my weekend deep in England’s southwest. Care for the community seemed to seep into everything. The local spirit seemed unavoidable. Creativity was at the forefront, as was that quietly profound sense of peace that comes from being beside the sea. I think I will be back in Newquay, ready to be drizzled on once more, come November next year.