Seville in 10 Delicious Dishes

Snails are the house speciality at Casa Remesal, a traditional tapas joint in the former gypsy quarter of Triana. Situated on the barrio’s main drag, Remesal is a lively little bar with a terrace facing an 18th-century church. The snails arrive sizzling in a clay pot, in a strong garlic sauce with thick wedges of bread for dipping. Scoop the caracoles out with a toothpick and coat with the rich sauce. Be sure to accompany the dish with a crisp caña (small beer).

The Seville speciality, pringá consists of slow-cooked beef or pork, morcilla (black pudding) and chorizo, and is then usually prepared at home on Sundays as part of a hearty stew, or cocido. Typically served as the filling for a small montadito (sandwich), Bodeguita Romero is famous for its take on the classic dish. This legendary tapas joint is a favourite with Seville’s residents, situated right in the city centre and only a stone’s throw from the cathedral. There’s not much space inside this beloved establishment, so arrive at or just before opening time to get a seat.

Cooked for hours in a red wine and tomato sauce, carrillada (braised pork cheek) is an Andalusian classic. If prepared correctly, the result is meat so tender that it falls off the bone. Usually served with patatas fritas (chips) and bread, it’s a speciality at Seville’s oldest tavern, El Rinconcillo. Founded in 1670 in the heart of the Santa Cruz neighbourhood, Rinconcillo retains all its original charm, with elaborately tiled walls and a bar where your bill is sketched on to a chalkboard.

Seville is a city famous for its long history of bullfighting. If there’s one dish that truly represents the Andalusian capital like no other, it is rabo/cola de toro, otherwise known as stewed bull’s tail. The meat joints bubble away in red wine and stock, with carrots, leeks and onions, for at least three hours, and are served with patatas fritas. Tapas bar Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo specialises in carne de toro, serving the rich, tender meat in croquetas, crepes and albóndigas (meatballs). This dish is best enjoyed with a glass of full-bodied red wine.

People come from far and wide to sample the solomillo al whisky at Casa Eme; a friendly neighbourhood bar located only a short 15-minute walk from the cathedral. This classic Sevillano tapas consists of slices of pork loin fried in olive oil, garlic and whisky (and sometimes brandy, too), and then usually served with fries. At Casa Eme it comes in a montadito, which allows the bread to absorb the boozy sauce. It’s even better when accompanied with a cold caña or vino blanco (white wine).

Served in most tapas bars across Seville, espinacas con garbanzos, or spinach and chickpeas, is a great option for vegetarians. The stewed vegetables are intensely spiced with garlic, paprika and cumin, and served with bread or breadsticks. Try this classic dish at Bodegón Alfonso XII, an unassuming bar situated up the road from the Setas monument. The tapas are freshly prepared, cheap and often varied at this low-key joint. Try the Moorish dish accompanied with an ice cold caña.

A traditional cold soup originally hailing from the city of Córdoba in the southern Spanish region of Andalusia, salmorejo is a dish made using tomatoes, water, garlic and breadcrumbs, which is then topped with cubes of serrano ham and a hard-boiled egg. It’s ideal for a light lunch, especially during Seville’s hot summer months, when temperatures in the city frequently hit 45C (113F). To try this classic Spanish dish, head to Bodega Dos de Mayo, a smart tapas bar in the city centre. Be sure to take a seat on Dos de Mayo’s sunny terrace and accompany your light lunch of soup with a vino blanco.

Without a shadow of a doubt, croquetas are on the menu in every bar and kitchen across the country, making them one of Spain’s most popular tapas dishes. These deep-fried savoury fritters are made using a creamy bechamel sauce which is then infused with ham (although chicken, spinach and oxtail are also common fillings), and then coated in breadcrumbs. These moreish, fried bites are usually accompanied with bread and crisps. To try this Spanish speciality, head to Casa Ricardo, a tiny bar off the Alameda de Hercules where the walls are plastered with fading Semana Santa (Holy Week) posters. Order a plate of croquetas and a cerveza (beer), and take your place at the bar to soak up the Sevillano ambience.

Although the classic Andalusian dish of flamenquin looks similar to the croqueta, the savoury treat is subtly different. Unlike the croqueta, this speciality is made by rolling slices of ham with pork loin, and then dipping the rolls in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, then subsequently deep-frying them. Blue cheese is also occasionally served with the dish. Head to Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas, a kiosk-sized tapas joint just up the road from the cathedral, to try this traditional dish. Pair your flamenquin with a glass of wine from their extensive menu.

Pescaito frito, which translates as ‘fried fish’ is a popular delicacy across the whole of Andalusia, and particularly in Seville. The dish is traditionally served as a sharing platter, which includes chunks of cod (bacalao), prawns (gambas), anchovies (boquerónes) and squid (calamares). The fish and seafood is lightly battered and deep fried before being garnished with lemon juice and salt. At most tapas bars across the city, you can usually order any kind of fish as a single tapas, which is ideal for a midday snack. To sample this regional specialty, head to Seville’s indoor food market El Mercado de Triana, where Cerveceria Loli prepares platters and tapas of pescaito frito with fish supplied by the market’s vendors.