12 Non-Touristy Things to Do in Milan
Discover a secret and unusual side of Milan with our anti-tourist travel tips. Roam among pink Chilean flamingos in a quiet Liberty garden, while away the afternoon watching a local bocce match or enjoy traditional Italian equine recipes.
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Basilica di San Vittore al Corpo
Located next to the National Museum of Science and Technology (where most of Leonardo Da Vinci’s inventions are housed) in the quiet and affluent Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood, San Vittore al Corpo is a basilica is a secret gem. Unlike il Duomo, you’re unlikely to find tourist queues here. The facade of the Late Renaissance structure is totally unassuming but the interior is breathtaking. It has an incredibly ornate panelled arch in its main nave with illustrations of those saints whose remains are supposed to be housed here. Its magnificent dome is covered in gilded stucco and frescoes by celebrated Milanese artist Daniele Crespi. Climb the bell tower and enjoy a mesmerizing view over the city.
Birrificio Lambrate
Birrificio Lambrate is a pioneer of the craft beer movement in Italy. Since 1996, this brewpub has been producing non-pasteurized and non-filtered beer for all of Milan to enjoy. The classics crafted all year long include the Ortiga, a golden-style ale, and a smoky stout called the Ghisa. Other beers are only available seasonally or on a special basis. It is located in between Città Studi and the newly hip Lambrate district of East Milan, so it maintains a very friendly, neighbourly atmosphere and there’s no risk of having to pick between Peroni or Carlsberg.
Macelleria e Griglieria Equina ‘Da Vito’
Equine meat as a delicacy can be a divisive conversation in many parts of the world, but for many people in Italy (especially the South) it’s equivalent to cooking with bovine meat. Of course, public opinion varies greatly and is always evolving. In the past, it would have been a cheaper cut of meat than pork or beef, but today the market has declined and it is more of a speciality product. Should you be inclined to sample an equine dish, there is a trusted and long-established equine macelleria in the unremarkable Lorenteggio neighbourhood (just beyond Zona Tortona) that also functions as a small restaurant. You select a cut of meat at the butcher counter and then the chefs will prepare it for you on the spot. It is located inside a covered market that has been running since 1954 and the set-up is simple and sweet (a few metal tables). The prices are incredibly reasonable: donkey carpaccio, 5 euros; foal steak with baked potatoes, 7 euros; glass of wine, 2 euros. It serves lunch Monday to Friday and also dinner on Thursday and Friday evenings. It’s very popular with locals, so you will need to book ahead.
Spirit de Milan
Located in a Bovisa, a periphery neighbourhood/suburb of north Milan, this venue is far from the tourist trail of the historic centre. Spirit de Milan opened in 2015 inside a vast 1920s former industrial building, with the aim of creating an environment that would recapture the social spirit of old 1950s Milan, but in a contemporary way and without nostalgia. The space combines a restaurant, Fabbrica de la Sgagnosa, which serves classic Milanese trattoria dishes with live music and a real dance hall. So, it’s dinner and dancing, but there is also a bar if you want to join later in the evening. They regularly host ‘Holy Swing Night’, an evening dedicated to swing music of the 1940s, and ‘Barbera & Champagne’, a night to rediscover Milan tavern-style singing and music. Be mesmerised by the experienced dancers but rest assured that there are lots of novice folks on the dance floor, too. Nightly, it opens at 7.30pm but the concerts and performances typically start at 10pm. It is a very mixed crowd of Bovisa locals and Milan hipsters, young and old.
Villa Invernizzi
Villa Invernizzi is an Art Nouveau (Stile Liberty) palace that overlooks Corso Venezia in the Porta Venezia neighbourhood. What makes this beautiful villa special is not the architecture but the garden, which is home to flocks of pink flamingos and peacocks. The Villa is not currently open to the public, but you are free to roam the gardens as a peaceful and quirky alternative to Parco Sempione, the famous central park of Milan.
Watch the locals compete at Bocce in Porta Venezia or Tortona
Bocce is the Italian word for boules, and it is a popular sport among the retired residents in Milan. If you spend enough time in Milan, one thing you will notice is that the elderly have a real place in the community, and are active (and often very stylishly dressed) throughout the city. Bocce players are well catered for with clubs and public Bocciofila (boules greens) in most areas. The slow pace of the game reflects the slower pace of life in Italy (Milan may not be as horizontal as Rome but compared to London or New York, it’s super chilled) and on a sunny day watching a game or two is a very nice way to pass the afternoon. A charming outdoor green is located on Via Giovanni Battista Morgagni in the Porta Venezia neighbourhood. Alternatively, head to Morna, an old-school yet eclectic bar in Zona Tortona. Morna’s outdoor seating area overlooks a Bocciofila so you can enjoy a match whilst you sip on spritz.
Carlo Cracco
Carlo Cracco is regarded as one of the best chefs in Italy and is one of the best assets Milan has to offer. With several Michelin stars won over the course of his career, Chef Cracco opened a restaurant in his own name in Milan in 2007. The restaurant serves elaborate food with first-class service and has two Michelin stars. With a 10-course menu taking customers on a journey through incredible flavors and enchanting smells, Cracco will leave an indelible mark on any tourist’s stay – and palate. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.
Via Terraggio Garden
This one remained closed for 70 years and finally re-opened in 2010. It’s a public garden amid what looks like a private house, nestled through an unassuming gateway in Milan. On the gate there are no signs, so this humble park can be a little tricky to find if you don’t know exactly where you’re heading. It is ideal to relax in on a sunny day and unwind in after contending with the city heat. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.
Palazzo Lombardia
Designed by famed architects Pei Cobb Freed, Palazzo Lombardia houses the organs of Lombardy’s regional council. It may look like just a skyscraper anyone can spot from miles away. But the secret to this spot is that it may be visited on Sundays, from 10am to 6pm, for some seriously beautiful panoramic views. There are 39 floors to walk around in, so come and enjoy the enchanting skyline of Milan from the windows. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.
Cannon ball in Corso di Porta Romana
In 1848, the city went through the so-called ‘five days of Milan’. On these days, the Milanese people rebelled against the Austrian dominion that held sway over their town, leading to violent conflicts between the two sides. Today, there is still a cannon ball embedded in the wall of a building on Corso di Porta Romana. It’s a remnant of these battles that bears a plaque commemorating the date the destruction took place: 20th March 1848. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.
Palazzo Dal Verme
Palazzo Dal Verme, which draws its name from the nearby Theatre, is a hidden gem of the Renaissance embedded between surrounding modern buildings. The inner courtyard is something anyone can enjoy, with an architectural harmony that is hard to find in the structures of today. This building survived the bombings which Milan was subjected to during the World War II in 1943. This makes it a rare piece of history between the city’s streets. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.
Via Lincoln
Via Lincoln is possibly the best-kept secret in Milan. It is a street which is dotted with colorful terraced houses, something which stands out as atypical in an industrial, business-oriented city like this. It was designed and realized around the end of the 19th century, in order to house the workers of a nearby area at affordable prices. Needless to say, these houses are now very pricey. Strolling up and down the street is free of charge and is sure to delight any architecture lovers hitting town. Recommended by Luca Pinelli.