Stepanakert is the capital city of the disputed region of Nagorno Karabakh, also known as Artsakh. Tourist visits to this region are less common due to the history of war, the isolated location, and also the lack of information on it. It is also still a conflict area, and therefore visitors should exercise due caution. However, intrepid travellers who make it to Stepanakert often come back raving about it, even though it is located in an unrecognised country. This list should keep you occupied during your time in this non-touristic city.
Climb the hill to Papik Tatik
Take a walk along the city’s busiest street, Azatamartikneri Avenue, until you reach the country’s most famous monument. It is known as Papik Tatik, which translates into English as ‘grandma and grandpa’. It was built back in 1967, long before the locals declared the Nagorno Karabakh Republic here. It is one of the most iconic sights in the country and often referred to as the ‘we are our mountains’ monument.
Visit the Karabakh War Museums
Sadly, Nagorno Karabakh has been through tough times, with a serious, bloody war from 1988 to 1994 claiming over 30,000 lives. The city has two very important and significant museums that give an insight into the wars. This war between Armenian and Azerbaijani forces left many people unaccounted for, their whereabouts unknown. A staggering number of over one million people from the region were displaced during the conflict. Most of them fled abroad, others simply moved to Armenia or Azerbaijan. The first museum is a memorial to the dead soldiers. This museum contains relics from the war, as well as books and a pictorial history of the battles that claimed the lives of so many. Both museums are easily found, and are beside each other on Vazgen Sargsyan Street.
The second of the two museums is dedicated to those missing soldiers. Almost every soldier that was unaccounted for is mentioned or detailed here. Many of these soldiers have their portraits on the wall. Local authors have written books and constantly appeal for help in trying to find some of these missing soldiers, which number into the thousands.
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Understand how the country came into existence
There must be a reason why this disputed region declared itself as an independent country in 1991. It was a complicated situation when the Soviet Union ceased to be. Suddenly, countries were declaring independence, introducing new flags and governments and bringing out their own currencies. Nagorno Karabakh got caught up in it all. Azerbaijan first declared its independence from the Soviet Union and removed the powers held by the Nagorno Karabakh enclave’s government. When this occurred, the Armenian majority living in Nagorno Karabakh voted to secede from Azerbaijan. In doing so, they declared themselves as the Republic of Nagorno Karabakh and so a new entity was formed. To this day, it is recognised only by Armenia and is not a member of the United Nations. To understand this history, head to the recommended Artsakh State Museum.
Finally, once you have seen the main sights of the city it is time to try some local food, washed down with Stepanakert’s alcohol of choice. In this region, it is Armenian cuisine with an accompanying shot of Ararat brandy. Head to one of Stepanakert’s coolest bars or restaurants, Ureni, in the city centre, which is a superb venue for a huge local feast and some regional brandy. Recommended dishes include Khorovats (grilled meat on sticks) or Lahmacun (Armenian-style pizza).
A travel writer, perpetual tourist and long term blogger, Jonny grew up in Northern Ireland but his global adventures have seen him live in Australia, Uruguay, England, Kyrgyzstan, Poland and Hong Kong. With 30 years writing experience, Jonny is a veteran writer with a taste for the unusual and quirky. Jonny's 150 country journey around the world saw him feed hyenas in Ethiopia, play football in Afghanistan, hitch-hike in Iraq and visit disputed regions unrecognised by the UN. Jonny is usually based in Poland but is never far away from another adventure and runs travel blogs in several niches.
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