La Boca is widely known for two things. One: the brightly-hued houses along the Caminito, a pedestrian alley full of tango dancers and souvenir shops. And two: la Bombonera, the home stadium of legendary fútbol team Boca Juniors. Beyond the touristy facade, though, La Boca is home to several notable restaurants, from fine dining to ‘hole-in-the-wall’ spots reflecting the neighborhood’s working-class heritage. A brief note on safety: take a taxi to La Boca and back, particularly at night, and keep an eye on wallets and valuables.
Many residents of La Boca are of Genoan descent, and this is evident in the fare at Il Matterello, an Italiancantina serving up delicious renditions of Italian classics from ravioli to tiramisu. It’s a favorite with locals, and although tourists to the neighborhood have started to discover it as well, the prices remain reasonable. Address & telephone number: Il Matterello, Martín Rodriguez 517, Buenos Aires, Argentina, +54 4307-0529
Patagonia Sur
Restaurant, Argentina
Renowned Argentinian grill-master and cookbook author Francis Mallmann’s restaurant empire may be based in Uruguay, but La Boca’s Patagonia Suris a stalwart in the Buenos Aires fine food scene. Just off el Caminito, the dining room is small and intimate. Enjoy the fixed price menu in a sumptuous environment, with smooth jazz streaming in the background.
Considering its location, right on the corner of el Caminito, and the omnipresent tango music and dancers performing in the restaurant, La Barrica has surprisingly reasonable prices— and the food is good. If the weather is nice, there is no better way to while away an afternoon than relaxing in the outdoor seating area with a glass of Malbec, watching some live tango dancing.
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Nonno Bachicha
If you stray a bit off the beaten tourist track in La Boca— using caution, of course— you’ll be rewarded with the most authentic dining experience the neighborhood has to offer. Settle down at a table with a checkered tablecloth at Nonno Bachicha, and peruse the menu of mouthwatering pasta dishes, many of which are vegetarian, as well as an assortment of seafood including eel, octopus, and squid. Bring cash and a big appetite.
La Chirilísima
Restaurant, Argentina
This café-restaurant near the stadium is full of interesting artefacts: a signed poster of Argentinianfútbol legend Diego Maradona, historic photos of the neighborhood, a mural of the old waterfront, and more, and the food is equally special. Pop in on a game day and order the churros with hot chocolate to snack on as you join in with the locals to watch the match on the café’s TV. You’re basically a porteño now.
El Rinconcito
Heaped plates of homemade pasta, cheap beer, and outdoor seating— what could be better? El Rinconcito’s small size (only eight indoor tables) makes it a friendly, cozy place. When it gets crowded at lunchtime, it’s the perfect spot for people-watching.
Located in a converted warehouse in the heart of La Boca, step inside Che Tangoand be surprised by what you find. If you’re willing to splash some cash, you can watch professional tango dancing accompanied by a full tango orchestra as you enjoy a lavish three course meal. From steaks to vegetarian options, there is something on the menu for everyone— and for an extra sum, you can pay for the VIP option, which consists of more varied menu choices, the best seats in the house, and champagne.
Maddy is in her second year reading English at the University of St Andrews. Born and bred in Washington, DC, she retains an affinity for political intrigue, urban green space, and Ethiopian cuisine despite newly appreciating the British traditions of queueing, apologising, and Wimbledon. Maddy's freelance writing has been published in media such as Matador Network and Thistle Magazine as well as in St Andrews-based publications. She'll travel anywhere, just give her a moment to lace up her Adidas.
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