Moroccan-British photographer Hassan Hajjaj is one of the most exciting talents working in Marrakech today. Ahead of his appearance at this month’s Beat Hotel Festival, we caught up with him to talk about his work, how it’s been shaped by the city, and where the best places are to eat, drink, and hang out in Morocco’s cultural capital.
There’s no mistaking Hassan Hajjaj’s photos. A riot of colour and clashing patterns, they look as if his subjects – who’ve included Cardi B and, most recently, Billie Eilish for the cover of Vogue – have taken a wrong turn down a rabbit hole, and stumbled out into a traditional Moroccan souk on mescaline.
Destinations Unlocked:Let our travel expert Stefano help you find your perfect Culture trip
Looking for an expert's perspective?Uncover my top 3 recommended places from each continent on the map.
1. GuatemalaAn express adventure for those with limited time off. Prepare yourself incredible experiences. You will hike a volcano, visit mayan temples and witness a ceremony and take in beautiful colonial Antigua.
2. BelizeA quick trip not too far away for those seeking a relaxing mini break. You will have plenty of free time to relax but also some awesome activities to experience the rainforest and the caribbean sea.
3. MexicoAn exciting mini trip exploring the lesser known colonial towns of central Mexico. This is hte perfect trip for someone with limited time off and still wants to turn on explorer mode and do something different.
1. EcuadorA remarkable 8 days adventure through the Andes and the Amazon rainforest. The best choice for adventure seekers wishing to visit the 2 most iconic areas of South America, in only 1 week and no flights.
2. PeruAn alternative itinerary to classic Peru, from Cusco to Arequipa. This itinerary is great combination of highlights Cusco and Machu Picchu with the lesser known Arequipa and Colca Canyon.
1. ItalyThe ultimate Italian experience from the vibrant streets of Naples to the breathtaking sceneries of the Amalfi Coast followed by Matera and down to Puglia with its golden beaches, intense flavours and fascinating destinations.
2. ScotlandEmbark on this great adventure starting from London all the way to Scotland with a true Scottish experience made of breathtaking sceneries, whisky tasting and ..lots of fun! Ideal for train lovers and explorers.
3. PortugalA wonderful train journey around Portugal, from the romantic city of Porto to the Douro Valley, to the beautiful Aveiro all the way to Lisbon and Sintra. The perfect trip to train, culinary and culture lovers.
1. South KoreaDiscover incredible temples, mountains and modern cities on this 10 day adventure. This trip is perfect for those seeking immersion in the cuisine, culture and natural wonders of South Korea.
2. ThailandFrom Bankgok to Angkor Wat to Ho Chi Minh City and everything in between - adventure through the heart of South-East Asia. Taste the delights, see history brought to life and unwind on a Mekong River cruise.
3. Sri LankaA fantastic adventure that showcases Sri Lanka's fantastic landscapes, wildlife and flavours. With 3 epic rail journeys, 3 UNESCO heritage sites and time to relax, this trip has loads to offer at a great price
1. MoroccoAn epic journey across Morocco: from Casablanca to Marrakech, through the blue city of Chefchaouen to the wonders of the desert and deep to the High Atlas Mountains - this trip has it all! Ideal for true explorers!
2. EgyptFrom Cairo to Aswan, this trip brings the land of the pharaohs to life. You'll visit the Pyramids, Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple and cruise down the Nile in style. This is the perfect way to explore Egypt.
Yet although his style is instantly recognisable, Hajjaj’s work defies easy classification. He combines elements of high fashion with trashy pop culture, mixing luxury brands with obvious fakes, and usually framing the whole thing with repeated motifs made of tin cans. Small wonder then, that he’s been dubbed ‘the Andy Warhol of Marrakech’.
Hajjaj is just as hard to pin down geographically as he is to slot into a particular genre. Partly this is a result of his upbringing. While his heritage is Moroccan, Hassan spent many of his formative years living in London, and currently splits his time “about half and half” between Marrakech and the British capital. But it’s also a result of his unusual career path. Now 59, he came to photography relatively late in life, and almost accidentally.
“I got involved in doing lots of underground parties in London in the 80s,” he says, “before during and after [the acid house era].” From 1984 until 1992, he owned a streetwear shop called Rap, “and during that time I became a stylist, I worked on music videos – I got involved with graffiti artists and that sort of thing”. Initially at least, photography was a hobby. “I was just taking photos of fun things, I wasn’t really doing it for work”.
Yet his signature style, a combination of his various eclectic influences, soon began to catch people’s eye – for obvious reasons. Hajjaj describes the way he composes a scene, riffing off big name brands and mixing elements, magpie-like, from Moroccan and British source material, as “sampling”.
“It’s like using a record to make another record. In early hip-hop, you hear samples from James Brown? It’s using that as a blueprint for what I do.” The cans around the frame, for example, which helped earn the first comparisons to Warhol, are influenced by “the repeated mosaic patterns that we have in North Africa”.
Other influences include “Nick Knight, David LaChapelle, and Martin Parr,” but perhaps less obviously, also “Cartier-Bresson and Robert Capa.” And then there are “reggae album covers,” and what Hajjaj describes as the “Arabised” versions of Hollywood films which crept into North Africa from the 1950s onwards. “If you look at Egyptian culture from the 60s and 70s, it’s a rip off of Hollywood. There’s definitely that influence there.”
The cultural cross-pollination which characterises his work is also partly a product of – and a comment on – the fact that youth culture has become increasingly homogenised in the era of globalisation. “If you see a 19 or 20-year-old kid on the streets in Morocco these days, he’s got a Supreme hat, a Louis Vuitton belt, a Kenzo t-shirt [and] his jeans will be designer,” explains Hajjaj.
“It’s all counterfeit, it’s all made in China – so the Louis Vuitton belt you’re gonna get in Marrakech is one you could buy in Portobello Road or Brick Lane – but I’m coming from that, and that’s what comes into my work.”
Hajjaj traces his appreciation of counterfeit clothes back to his time running the streetwear store in London. “At Rap, we used to find these big labels wouldn’t design something that we wanted to wear – so we would recreate something that we wanted to wear using their brand names.”
There’s also an undeniable element of fantasy to Hajjaj’s work. It’s not just the hallucinogenic colour schemes and lurid patterns, but the slightly implausible scenes he creates. This is perhaps most obvious in his best-known series, ‘Kesh Angels’, in which groups of women wearing hijabs, burnouses and burqas strike gangster poses on scooters.
“Everyone in Morocco has a scooter,” Hajjaj explains, “male or female, old, young, traditional or modern. So I was just taking that reality and turning it into these cinematic images. ‘Kesh’ is short for Marrakech, so I’m taking the Hell’s Angels and making it ‘Kesh Angels’. Playing with another brand name – that’s really where the idea came from.”
Once again, it’s taking something you think you recognise, and giving it a playful, colourful twist. And while the scenes may be made-up, they reveal something about everyday life in Marrakech that feels more real than any number of clichéd tourist snaps. After all, this is a city which, like Hassan’s work, defies easy stereotypes.
If you want to catch a flavour of the real Marrakech yourself, here are Hassan’s tips for the best places to eat, drink, shop, and hang out.
Where would you go for the best coffee?
I’d go to one of the very local, local places where you see old men and no tourists. The coffee to order is called a nostos, which means ‘half-milk, half-coffee’. One place that does a really good nostos is called Laksur Café Bistro, something like that. It’s near the entrance to the medina.
Where would you go for the best food?
I love street food, so I’d recommend that, but obviously I can’t give you an address. If somebody wants really good Moroccan food, Al-Fassia is great. It’s run entirely by women, and it’s a little bit of a fancy restaurant. Then there’s Dar Moha, and another place I go is called Shtatto. Order a bessara, it’s like a Moroccan soup.
Where’s the best place to go for a drink?
There’s the Comptoir, that’s quite classic, and then there’s the Cabana, that’s a new one that a friend has just opened up. Marrakech is not a big drinking city though, because it’s a Muslim country, but I’d try those two.
Where’s the best place to see art?
For the best art, go to Comptoir des Mines Gallerie. It’s a building with about 18 apartments and the guy shows contemporary Moroccan artists. Then you’ve got 127 Gallery, a photography gallery, then David Block, he does more street art, and then the last one is Riad Yima – I’ve had my work there.
Where are the best places to go shopping?
Where the Shtatto restaurant is, there are a few designers there – three boutiques downstairs. Then you’ve got Trente-Trois, or 33, you’ve got Riad el-Fenn, and you’ve got Beldi, and that’s in the medina.
And finally, where would you go to experience something you can’t find anywhere else in the world?
I would try to befriend locals, and get invited back to their houses. That way you’ll see the real Morocco. Try not to compare where you’re coming from with Morocco – just go with the flow. Let everything happen.
Hassan Hajjaj will be talking at the Beat Hotel Festival in Marrakech, from 19 – 22 March. An exhibition of his work, Mi Casa Su Casa, is currently running at the Comptoir des Mines Gallerie in Marrakech.
Volcanic Iceland Epic Trip
meet our Local Insider
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A GUIDE?
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR JOB?
It's the personal contact, the personal experiences. I love meeting people from all over the world... I really like getting to know everyone and feeling like I'm traveling with a group of friends.
WHAT DESTINATION IS ON YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET-LIST?
I have so many places on my list, but I would really lobe to go to Africa. I consider myself an “adventure girl” and Africa feels like the ULTIMATE adventure!
Every CULTURE TRIP Small-group adventure is led by a Local Insider just like Hanna.
KEEN TO EXPLORE THE WORLD?
Connect with like-minded people on our premium trips curated by local insiders and with care for the world
Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.
Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.
Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.
Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.
We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.