Spotlight On El Bajo: Montevideos Artistic Revolution

The haunt of rowdy sailors and scantily clad prostitutes in the early decades of the 20th century, El Bajo was the epicenter of Montevideo‘s underworld. Crowded, filthy and ironically sandwiched between a temple and a convent, it was described by socialist poet Emilio Frugoni as ‘the sore on Montevideo’s side’. Today, a full-throttle rejuvenation project has seen the area rise from the ashes to become the city’s cultural hotspot.
El Bajo de Ciudad Vieja was known as a ‘den of lowlifes’ until the mid-1970s. Abandoned and desolate, it was little more than an ugly reminder of its chequered past. Since then, revitalization has been gathering momentum at the hands of local artists, traders and entrepreneurs.

http://instagram.com/p/BLCQ9ZgA1XR/?tagged=elbajodeciudadvieja&hl=en

Centered on the corner of Juan Carlos Gómez and Piedras streets in Ciudad Vieja, El Bajo is now a haven for experimental theater and visual art. Every year, the Museos en la Noche and Día del Patrimonio projects bring thousands to the streets of El Bajo to celebrate Uruguay’s unique cultural heritage.

The blocks that spread outwards from Piedras are plastered with murals by the likes of street artist Alfalfa, with the doors of the charming old buildings – like Casona Mauá, a painstakingly restored 19th century manor house-turned-events space – thrown open to visitors. These once downtrodden streets bustle with gastronomy fairs, mobile photography exhibitions and a thriving outdoor music scene.

El Bajo’s bright, bold street art is some of the most impressive in the city. Set out on a walking tour of the streets either side of Juan Carlos Gómez to spot murals by local artists like Maldito Bastardo and La Tribu. Keep an eye open for the famous ostrich heads as you round each corner.

Various locations, Juan Carlos Gómez esq. Piedras, Montevideo, Uruguay

http://instagram.com/p/BLCdQ6XApPX/?taken-at=496196696&hl=en

Don’t leave El Bajo without a glimpse at the magnificent array of contemporary art on show at Casa Gómez. This gallery – complete with cocktail bar and resident DJs – hosts live exhibitions, jam sessions and ‘extraordinary’ secret parties.

Casa Gómez, Juan Carlos Gómez 1539, Montevideo, Uruguay, +598 92 309 423

What to do

Hone your skills with the trusty pencil at one of Casa Wang‘s weekly drawing workshops. A rotating calendar of classes includes figure drawing with nude models and mural painting. This inclusive space – home to illustrators and designers – welcomes artists of all levels.

Casa Wang, Juan Carlos Gómez 1538, Montevideo, Uruguay

http://instagram.com/p/BNvWsSbgTzr/?taken-by=casawang&hl=en

Catch a show at El Bajo’s performance space, Ensayo Abierto. From expression workshops to poetry slams, plays to live music, this compact theater showcases the best of Montevideo’s underground performance art.

Ensayo Abierto, Piedras 599 esq. Juan Carlos Gómez, Montevideo, Uruguay

Where to eat

If healthy eating’s on the menu, stop for a bite to eat at El Bajo’s Tomate. Exposed cobblestone walls and stripped wooden furniture lend the place a rustic feel, while the vegetarian-led choices are a far cry from the meat feasts on offer at Mercado del Puerto a few blocks away. Try the legendary Ensalada Azul, with a fresh house juice on the side.

Tomate, Ituzaingo 1426, Montevideo, Uruguay, +598 2916 9720

http://instagram.com/p/BKtC5BtgaLX/?taken-at=689296887&hl=en

For hearty dishes with pretty presentation, head to Sandoval Casa de Comidas on Bartolomé Mitre. The industrial-style interior is brightened by bursts of orange and green, with a Mediterranean-inspired menu. Great value lunch plates might be bruschetta with goat’s cheese and radish, or hake with parmesan crust.

Sandoval Casa de Comidas, Bartolomé Mitre 1474, Montevideo, Uruguay, +598 2914 6781

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.