The Top 10 Things to See and Do in San Telmo, Buenos Aires

San Telmo’s largest park is Parque Lezama, named after a wealthy family who landscaped the gardens. It became a public park in 1894. Today, its leafy walkways and tranquil ponds make it a lovely spot for a stroll or picnic lunch. You’ll spot old men enjoying a game of chess, and groups of all ages sharing a mate (a traditional South American drink). The Museo Histórico Nacional is nearby as well as a stunning Russian Orthodox church; you can’t miss its striking blue roof, made with materials shipped over from Saint Petersburg. We recommend joining a guided bike tour of the city, which invariably carves through Lezama.

Hundreds of stalls set up shop every Sunday along Calle Defensa and Plaza Dorrego. An estimated 10,000 people pour through the streets, looking for bargains on costume jewelry, handmade lace or copper pots. The stands spill out onto neighboring streets, so don’t rush, and keep an eye out for a souvenir or two to take home. Once you’ve had your fill of antigüedades, hit up Bar Plaza Dorrego (see below) for lunch. Book a guided tour if you want a helping hand in finding the best stalls amid the crowds.

Watch and learn: the shows at El Viejo Almacén are a masterclass in tango. The tanguería has been putting on nightly shows since 1969. Book dinner beforehand at the restaurant across the street, or just pop by for the show (tickets come with bottomless drinks). The venue is cozy, and you’ll feel part of the action as the live band kicks off and the dancers show off their moves, just feet in front of you.

Years ago, construction crews were excavating under an 1830s mansion in the heart of San Telmo. They uncovered a zanjón, or ravine, running underground for blocks. It revealed an archaeological maze of centuries-old tunnels and ruins, dating back to Buenos Aires’ early foundations. Explore the subterranean waterways and learn about the immigrant families who lived in the house after the wealthy owners departed. You’ll end up here on the Essence of Buenos Aires in San Telmo tour.

This 18th-century Dominican convent has been a central building in Buenos Aires’ history. It was under siege during the British invasions of the early 19th century and was used as a museum when the Dominican orders were expelled about 20 years later. It now houses the tomb of Manuel Belgrano, one of the country’s national heroes of independence. Due to the convent’s excellent location between Plaza Dorrego and Plaza de Mayo, it’s worth stopping by when walking down to San Telmo from the city center. Join the two hour walking tour of San Telmo to learn more about this convent’s wider significance to the Argentine capital.

This restaurant may be decked out in sports memorabilia, but don’t be mistaken: it’s a fine dining experience. La Brigada has made a name for itself in the neighborhood serving up the best parrillas in town – the word literally translates as “grill” in English, but refers to a classic Argentinian dish of grilled steak, sausages and other meats piled high. Plan ahead for dinner here, as reservations can fill up fast. Dive deeper into the local food scene on a Sherpa Food Tours lunchtime culinary adventure around San Telmo.

Housed in a salmon-pink colonial mansion along the shady Parque Lezama, Argentina’s National History Museum is a comprehensive look through the country’s history. From pre-Hispanic Andean groups, to Spanish colonization and independence, and the series of 20th century military dictatorships, you’ll gain a deeper insight into Buenos Aires’ backstory. Take a look inside a recreated version of José de San Martín’s bedroom, one of Argentina’s lauded liberators.

The black-and-white tile floors and rustic wooden tables give Bar Plaza Dorrego a distinctly European feel. Grab a seat by the window and people-watch across the plaza. If you arrive in the morning, order a café con leche with a medialuna (Argentinian sweet croissant). Alternatively, beer on tap flows all afternoon. Every order comes with the bar’s signature peanuts, but we also recommend the hearty prosciutto, cheese and tomato sandwich.

If you miss the Sunday market, you can still nab some old-fashioned finds during the week at San Telmo’s free-standing antique shops. You might find a better deal at the market, but if you’re looking for something specific, these shops are a must. Our favorite? Gil Antigüedades, which has been selling finds like hand-woven fabrics, vintage fascinators and old-school toys in front of Plaza Dorrego since 1973.

The Paseo de la Historieta is a stretch of street lined with statues of comic strip characters, including Mafalda, a small girl often described as one of the country’s best-loved creations. She can be found sitting on a bench alongside her companions, Susanita and Manolo. Elsewhere along the walk are several other popular characters like Isidoro Canones, a “typical Buenos Aires playboy” and Matias, a “naughty but friendly and ingenious boy, known for his strong imagination”.