The Best Of Istanbul's Historic Meyhanes

The meyhane (or Turkish tavern) is not merely a type of restaurant, but a whole experience that involves a lot of conversation and one glass of rakı after the other. Of course, a table full of delicious meze varieties are also very important. So whether it’s heartbreak that needs to be mollified, or a certain joy that requires celebration, the Istanbul meyhane is the perfect place for a meal with close friends in a traditional atmosphere. We took on Istanbul’s most historic meyhanes, where the traditional rakı masası (rakı table) is set up every night.

1. Refik

Restaurant, Turkish, Halal

A classic meyhane in every sense of the word, Refik opened in 1954 and the evidence of its long history are apparent all over its walls, which are decorated with framed photographs and newspaper clippings. Quite the popular restaurant, the two floors are always full, so make sure to reserve your table in advance. We recommend ordering a big bottle of rakı and trying the arnavut çiğeri (Albanian-style fried and chopped liver) and patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad).

2. Madam Despina’nın Meyhanesi

Restaurant, Turkish

One of the few taverns to have been operated by a woman, Gökçeada native Madam Despina, who opened her first meyhane in 1946 before moving to the Kurtuluş neighborhood in 1970. Today, her black-and-white portrait hangs at the entrance of this very classic meyhane where empty wine bottles are placed on tables to indicate a reservation. You won’t see a lot of tourists dropping by this restaurant, where the trademark topikand yaprak ciğeri are always prepared perfectly.