The Perfect Swiss Retreat for Foodies in Search of Relaxation

Switzerland, particularly in the winter months, is a picture-postcard destination. With stunning Christmas markets, blanket snow and top class ski resorts, its not hard to sell a trip here for anyone looking for a seasonal escape. If all those things interest you, then you have a plethora of choices, but what if you want more?

Jumping on a train from Zurich airport, which is conveniently located close to the city centre, you can get to most of Europe from here. We weren’t leaving the country on this occasion, but after a short flight from London it already felt like we were in a different world. Heading towards St. Moritz – on a route many visitors will have taken – the snow covered trees and impressive mountains on either side of the train transport you with clinical efficiency. Its still a thrill to be at a platform knowing that the arrivals board is accurate to the minute, and to be honest when the brisk weather hits you’ll be grateful too. Its a few hours to get to the Upper Engadine region but our final stop on this occasion isn’t as well known as the glamorous ski town.

Travel Switzerland offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket.

La Punt Chamues-ch is a small municipality at the foot of Piz Mezzaun. To give it a more universal context, the village feel (and size) of the area will appeal to anyone looking to escape the crowds when on holiday. After a long journey, you’ll be please to see Krone – Säumerei am Inn just opposite the station. Buses can take you from here to the centre of St. Moritz in less than 30 minutes, or you can get back on the train for a few short stops for an even quicker journey. For now though, it’s time to settle into this charming hotel which has a relaxing modern feel with a centuries-old heritage.

The River Inn trickles through La Punt Chamues-ch and offsets the boutique property framing it against the backdrop of the imposing mountains. Originally a farmhouse where traders and travellers found refuge – that’s what a Säumerei means – today you’ll be greeted by Hotel Manager and Head Chef James Baron. Soon after this incarnation of the owner-run historic property opened in 2022, Baron gained a coveted Michelin star for the on-site restaurant La Chavallera. Embracing local cuisine, fresh ingredients and even Swiss art, this is a unique stay that can be described as a restaurant with rooms. But what rooms!

Each of the rooms are individually appointed to maximise available space. Corner rooms on the ground floor are different to end rooms on the top floor, and that makes perfect sense. Furnished in native woods such as maple, larch and Swiss pine, the beds are comfy although the additional seating also makes it very easy to nod off if you want to enjoy the views. Architects Ruch & Partner are experts in the traditional Engadin style of construction and are specialists in the conversion of farmhouses in the region. The in-house sauna and wellness room offer unbeatable views, making it easy to spend your whole trip here completely indoors.

As impressive as the rooms are, the star of the show here is the restaurant. Baron has taken his wealth of international experience and has curated a menu that combines Alpine traditions with modern sensibilities. La Chavallera (with means ‘trading merchant’ in the local Romansch dialect) serves up a delightful tasting menu which has made the restaurant a hugely popular spot in this part of Switzerland. You aren’t short of dining options in nearby St. Moritz, but this venue is now bringing in foodies down from the slopes of the popular ski destination.

It’s also worth remembering that this is a destination that is becoming more popular in the summer months. The garden outside Krone is a great outdoor space, although you can enjoy a spot of fondue while the snow is falling too. If you fancy skiing, the bus to the slopes departs directly outside the hotel and is free if you have your equipment with you. If you want to explore La Punt, strap on your snow shoes and head to the vast open area surrounding the main thoroughfare that runs through town. There’s a handy ski room in the hotel. When the weather clears, you can picture how this area would be ideal for cycling, hiking and wild swimming.

The glitzy town of St. Moritz is arguably the best known ski destination in the world. The story goes that a hotelier here gambled with four British guests in the summer that they should return in the winter, and if they didn’t like it he would cover all their costs. Previous to this wager in 1864, St. Moritz was primarily seen as a warm weather retreat. Winter Tourism has since boomed and it is the place to be seen in certain A-List circles. A snow polo tournament is held annually on the frozen lake at the start of every year and you’ll find curling rinks dotted across town. Sir Norman Foster has designed several buildings here including the Kulm Eispavillon overlooking Hotel Kulm’s outdoor ice skating arena as well as the iconic Chesa Futura – a saucer-shaped apartment block visible from most parts of St. Moritz. The British architect lives close by and has recently announced InnHub in La Punt as an upcoming project. This office/apartment hybrid is set to become the fanciest remote working spot in Europe.

There are several art galleries in St. Moritz, many of which hark back to the 1980’s. It was around this period that the nickname ‘Top of the World’ was coined and when you do eventually head up to the slopes it all makes perfect sense. If you do wish to continue your journey onward (and upwards) the Bernina Express can even take you over the Alps.

For more information on Switzerland, visit switzerland.com