Amazing Things to See and Do in Almería, Spain

Like all such structures in Andalusia, Almería’s Alcazaba (or fortress) is not so much a single building as a miniature town. Begun in 955 on the orders of the region’s Muslim ruler, Abd ar-Rahman III, it originally consisted of two separate enclosures – one with shops, a mosque, gardens and a fountain, and a second consisting of a palace for the rulers, their guards and servants. After their reconquest of the city in 1489, Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella added a third section, consisting of a defensive tower and residential quarters.

Almería’s 16th-century cathedral is the only structure of its kind in Andalusia that served a defensive as well as a religious purpose. Construction began in 1524, two years after an earthquake destroyed an earlier church, and lasted until 1564, resulting in a blend of Renaissance and Gothic styles. The structure’s chunky turrets and buttresses, normally absent from Spanish cathedrals, were designed to keep out Berber pirates and rebelling Moors, both of which frequently attacked the city during the 16th century.

Housed in restored vaults beneath one of Almería’s oldest squares, Aire’s hammam recreates Roman, Greek and Ottoman bathing experiences. Soak in candlelit tubs of varying temperatures (hot, tepid and cold), float in salt water and steam in two saunas of differing intensities, before finishing off with a massage. There’s also a rooftop pool with views over Almería and a wine bath, in which you’re submerged in Ribera del Duero red grapes. Other packages include tasting menus, wine and cheese and olive oil treatments.

The “shopping street” branches off the northern end of the Paseo de Almería in the Old Town. In addition to its modern clothing and shoe outlets, two of its most venerable tenants are still standing – El Valenciano, an eye-catching curiosity and souvenir shop founded in the 19th century, and Amalia, a kiosk-sized bar with a small terrace. Its speciality tipple is the Americano, a concoction of hot milk, sugar and kola nut liquor, named after the American actors who are said to have requested it while filming here in the 1960s.

Almería’s Levante coastline takes its name from the strong winds that frequently buffet Spain’s southern coast. It is home to some of the region’s most unspoilt beaches. They’re scattered throughout the provinces of Pulpí, Cuevas del Almanzora, Garrucha, Mojácar and Carboneras (from north to south). Most are coves of fine sand flanked by dramatic cliffs, often served by a sole chiringuito (a bar selling drinks and tapas). Playa Carolina, Playa Pozo del Esparto and Playa de las Ventanicas are among the best.

In a 16th-century building that once housed Almería’s Lyceum, the Andalusian Centre of Photography showcases works by leading Spanish and international artists. It was founded in 1992, in order to continue the legacy of Almería’s Imagina project. Launched in 1900, during celebrations of the fifth centenary of Europeans’ landing in the Americas, this pioneering initiative saw some of the world’s finest photographers showcasing their work in the city.

Europe’s only desert is situated a half-hour drive north from Almería, just east of the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. The 280sqkm (110sqmi) of scrublands were the film location for Sergio Leone’s classic 1960s Westerns starring Clint Eastwood. To explore, head north from Almería on the A92 motorway, which runs through the middle of the entire desert.

Even on a street lined with tapas joints, this one manages to stand out. With every beer, wine or soft drink you order, you’re entitled to a free tapa of your choice, but you can also request extra dishes for a small charge. The menu consists of Spanish staples such as croquetas and pinchos (mini skewers of pork or chicken), some contemporary presentations of tuna and octopus and plenty of veggie options. There’s not much space, so arrive early to secure a table.

Situated a half-hour drive east of Almería, the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park is Andalusia’s largest protected coastal area and home to Spain’s biggest volcanic rock formation. The best way to explore its protected, 1.5km (1mi) marine strip is on a guided kayaking excursion. You’ll visit otherwise inaccessible areas of the rocky shores. Popular trips focus on the coastline between La Fabriquilla and Arrecife de las Sireñas, and the waters off the fishing village of Las Negras.