The Strange Past, Present and Future of Zemun's Synagogue

If you dig deep enough in any former socialist country, you’ll find various religious communities that have experienced struggles and crises as they fight to survive and believe in peace. The strange past, present and future of Zemun’s synagogue may well be the best example of this in Serbia.
The beginning
Belgrade once had a sizeable Jewish community, although practically all traces of it were destroyed during World War II. Four synagogues stood in the city before the war, of which only one remains today. Zemun itself had two active Jewish communities pre—1941, the Sephardic and Ashkenzani.
The Sephardic Jews used a synagogue on Dubrovačka, built in 1850 in the Neo Romanesque style. The community was never particularly large, but it could be forgiven for feeling fairly comfortable as the 20th century got underway. The beginning of the Nazi Occupation in 1941 changed this, and a healthy community of some 600 people soon began to see its numbers shrink. Come the end of the war, 95% of Serbia’s Jews had perished.
The synagogue in Zemun was bombed by the Allies, continuing to exist only in ideological form until it was demolished in 1957. The glorious Moorish revival building was no more, but the confusion was only just getting started for the Jews of Zemun.

Destinations Unlocked:
Let our travel expert Stefano help you find your perfect Culture tripCentralAmerica
1. Guatemala
An express adventure for those with limited time off. Prepare yourself incredible experiences. You will hike a volcano, visit mayan temples and witness a ceremony and take in beautiful colonial Antigua.CentralAmerica
2. Belize
A quick trip not too far away for those seeking a relaxing mini break. You will have plenty of free time to relax but also some awesome activities to experience the rainforest and the caribbean sea.CentralAmerica
3. Mexico
An exciting mini trip exploring the lesser known colonial towns of central Mexico. This is hte perfect trip for someone with limited time off and still wants to turn on explorer mode and do something different.SouthAmerica
1. Ecuador
A remarkable 8 days adventure through the Andes and the Amazon rainforest. The best choice for adventure seekers wishing to visit the 2 most iconic areas of South America, in only 1 week and no flights.SouthAmerica
2. Peru
An alternative itinerary to classic Peru, from Cusco to Arequipa. This itinerary is great combination of highlights Cusco and Machu Picchu with the lesser known Arequipa and Colca Canyon.Europe
1. Italy
The ultimate Italian experience from the vibrant streets of Naples to the breathtaking sceneries of the Amalfi Coast followed by Matera and down to Puglia with its golden beaches, intense flavours and fascinating destinations.Europe
2. Scotland
Embark on this great adventure starting from London all the way to Scotland with a true Scottish experience made of breathtaking sceneries, whisky tasting and ..lots of fun! Ideal for train lovers and explorers.Europe
3. Portugal
A wonderful train journey around Portugal, from the romantic city of Porto to the Douro Valley, to the beautiful Aveiro all the way to Lisbon and Sintra. The perfect trip to train, culinary and culture lovers.Asia
1. South Korea
Discover incredible temples, mountains and modern cities on this 10 day adventure. This trip is perfect for those seeking immersion in the cuisine, culture and natural wonders of South Korea.Asia
2. Thailand
From Bankgok to Angkor Wat to Ho Chi Minh City and everything in between - adventure through the heart of South-East Asia. Taste the delights, see history brought to life and unwind on a Mekong River cruise.Asia
3. Sri Lanka
A fantastic adventure that showcases Sri Lanka's fantastic landscapes, wildlife and flavours. With 3 epic rail journeys, 3 UNESCO heritage sites and time to relax, this trip has loads to offer at a great priceAfrica
1. Morocco
An epic journey across Morocco: from Casablanca to Marrakech, through the blue city of Chefchaouen to the wonders of the desert and deep to the High Atlas Mountains - this trip has it all! Ideal for true explorers!Africa
2. Egypt
From Cairo to Aswan, this trip brings the land of the pharaohs to life. You'll visit the Pyramids, Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple and cruise down the Nile in style. This is the perfect way to explore Egypt.
The past
The functional building that replaced the old synagogue served as a means to an end for the now-much smaller community, but the establishment of a socialist government meant that the future didn’t look particularly bright. That pessimistic prognostication proved precise, and the building was sold to the municipality of Zemun in 1962.
A cultural centre was established at the synagogue, an undesirable situation for the Jews but one immeasurably better than seeing it turned into a restaurant, a rock club, or something along similar lines. The sale of the synagogue was only completed under the proviso that the building would be used for educational and cultural means after all.
Enter Šešelj
Enter Vojislav Šešelj. The ultra nationalist figure from the wars of the early ‘90s became mayor of the municipality in 1996, and the future of the synagogue looked bleak once more. Šešelj promised the Jewish community that he wouldn’t rush with renting it out, only to confirm a restaurant takeover just three days later. The Jewish community was in shock and quickly appealed, only for Šešelj to tell them that they couldn’t tell him what to do with something that wasn’t theirs.
The restaurant became a rock club soon after, before reverting back to a restaurant in the 2000s. At one point, the Jewish Community of Zemun attempted to raise money in order to buy the building back, but their efforts proved unsuccessful.

The future
The municipality’s lease on the property comes to an end in September 2018, and it has since been confirmed that the building will be returned to the ownership of the Jewish community, some 46 years after it was forced out of their hands. What will become of the synagogue then?
Sač is the name of the restaurant currently in use of the property, and the owner of the traditional kafana has said that he will honour the agreement. He was just as quick to mention that 14 people earn their living from the restaurant, however, so it remains to be seen just how smooth the transition back to synagogue will be.
Will it even be a synagogue come September? Nobody is quite sure what the future of Zemun’s synagogue is. While it may not be plain sailing, many believe that the tumultuousness has passed. All we can do is wait and see.

Volcanic Iceland Epic Trip
meet our Local Insider
Hanna

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A GUIDE?
2 years.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR JOB?
It's the personal contact, the personal experiences. I love meeting people from all over the world... I really like getting to know everyone and feeling like I'm traveling with a group of friends.
WHAT DESTINATION IS ON YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET-LIST?
I have so many places on my list, but I would really lobe to go to Africa. I consider myself an “adventure girl” and Africa feels like the ULTIMATE adventure!


Every CULTURE TRIP Small-group adventure is led by a Local Insider just like Hanna.


KEEN TO EXPLORE THE WORLD?
Connect with like-minded people on our premium trips curated by local insiders and with care for the world
Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.
Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.
Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.
Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.
We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.