Exploring the History and Modern Sounds of Riga

Having been to Estonia and seen the best of its capital Tallinn on a recent trip, I was expecting more of the same from the country’s southern neighbour. Latvia has a rich history which has seen it gain independence (on more than one occasion) and ultimately join the EU 20 years ago in 2004. With a number of international influences visible across the country in its buildings, customs and cuisine, the capital Riga has emerged as a focal point for culture in the region.

Riga has a modern airport a short drive from the city centre. When flying in its impossible to miss the vast forests below. The country is similar in natural resources to Estonia, with a number of inland lakes, extensive nature preserves and a big maritime industry. Positivus Festival itself was initially in one of these picturesque settings, but we’ll take a closer look at that later. Today, the festival very close to central Riga, and that makes it the perfect excuse to visit this historic destination.

The contrasting architectural styles here give an insight to the rise, fall and rise again of Riga. The gothic spires of the old churches sit alongside the colourful tiled roofs of Old Town. A modern, cosmopolitan district beyond large green spaces is home to new hotels and international restaurants whilst the highlight for many visitors are the art nouveau buildings that make up one third of the city.

Like most cities, Riga has experienced boom periods in the past when housing was erected at a rapid pace. Its a happy coincidence for visitors today that one of these previous moments in time, around the start of the 20th century, was just when Art Nouveau was the design style of choice. The ornate facades are vividly presented over several storeys and the properties have large windows which give excellent light dispersal inside. When I was wondering the cobbled streets in an area which has a particularly high density of these buildings, I saw a couple of film and TV crews setting up for historical productions. They were bringing in market stalls, era-appropriate posters and extras adorned in retro fashion but its a testament to this untouched district that the buildings were dressed for the cameras.

Following WWII, Riga was part of the Soviet communist empire. There aren’t many visual cues to this troubled time, for obvious reasons, but you can still see some brutalist structures that have an undeniable nod towards Moscow. The most touristy area is the picturesque Old Town where local food and drink can be found in narrow streets and outdoor plazas.

Riga feels like an extremely safe city. Tourists don’t have to be on their guard all the time and can relax when strolling around. One popular attraction is a seemingly unassuming building on Jauniela street which is always surrounded by tour groups. This was the setting for a popular Soviet version of Sherlock Holmes from the 1970s and 80s. This is widely regarded as one of the best adaptations of the original stories by Sir Author Conan Doyle, and has left a last legacy in Riga.

The weather in the summer can get hot, so prepare for that and also bring your walking shoes. There are great transport links and cheap taxis, but its much nicer to walk everywhere.

You can actually make your way to Positivus Festival on foot from Old Town in less than an hour, and many locals do just that. Beginning in 2007 as a celebration of music and art on the seashore at Salacgrīva, the festival is now one of the biggest events in Latvia. Situated on the picturesque island of Lucavsala, nestled near the tranquil waters of the Daugava river, Positivus has seamlessly integrated into its urban surroundings while maintaining its enchanting connection with nature.

The music here is eclectic, much in keeping with the sensibilities of the young crowd that show up. Chart-topping acts like The 1975 and Megan thee Stallion have headlined in the past, with emerging acts from around Europe also taking to to the stage. DJs have a few dedicated areas that function like mini clubs, and these always have a great vibe especially if you arrive on site early in the day.

Having recovered from the debilitating impact of Covid in 2020, the event is now back bigger than ever. Scheduled headliners Jason Derulo and Offset saw excellent sales and the evening performances were packed out affairs.

As you might have noticed, I did phrase the proposed acts in a reserved way. Unfortunately this years event was hit by the global IT outage that hit airlines hard in July. On the day I arrived, as I was settling in for my first night in Riga, news was coming through that banks, online marketplaces and – crucially for this part of my story – airline systems had crashed due to a faulty software update. Everything was fine in Riga, but Offset and compatriots Nothing But Thieves were unable to fly in for their appearances here. In other places this could have caused major issues, but in a show of collaborative endeavour, something I had seen a lot of here already, everyone got together to put on a great alternative.

A popular local artist was moved to the main stage and played upbeat hip-hop hits to an energetic crowd who loved every second of it. Say what you like about Jason Derulo, but the American also stepped up and delivered an extended set making the most of his extensive repertoire. How he managed this, given the frenetic routines and mind-boggling choreography he and his troupe have to memorise, is a mystery… but it worked!

As Riga and Positivus reminded me, the show must go on, and its a testament to the Latvian spirit that my weekend here was one of the best short breaks I’ve had.