Avoiding the Crowds and Feeling at Home in Tuscany

The way we travel is constantly evolving. From apartment rentals to lavish hotels, there are unlimited choices to cater to every taste. Convenience and comfort are top of some people’s lists when it comes to picking where to stay whereas others want a more adventurous retreat. Then we have those culture vultures who crave nothing more than free time to explore the museums and art galleries of a destination. Throw wellness types into the mix – where relaxing time in nature is paramount and you start to see how hard it can be to find the right option to suit everyone. There are a small number of luxury hideaways, however, that can meet all of these requirements.

As a regular traveller to Italy, its fair to say i’ve experienced a little bit of everything throughout the country. From skiing in the north to sailing on Lake Como, this is my favourite destination to visit, and perhaps one day relocate to. Florence is an endlessly fascinating place, and the city I landed in on my most recent visit, but it wasn’t the place I was to call home for the next few days. I was heading to Chianti, the famous wine region about 30 minutes away by car for an unforgettable break that somehow managed to combine all the best elements of my previous visits into one.

This is a gorgeous part of the world that doesn’t need to work too hard to sell itself. The flavours and aromas here are enriching and throughout Tuscany towns like Siena and Pisa have a mystique that brings people in from around the world. We previously tackled The Italian Job by way of a frenzied road trip through Tuscany and onwards to Turin, but this time it was an entirely different affair which involved immersive activities and getting more of a taste of the Italian way of life. High on the list were a series of authentic experiences picked out by our hosts to get close look at local artisanal excellence.

“It was important to us to share experiences with our villa guests that we have discovered ourselves, on our many visits to Tuscany, and that we love.” California-based attorney Christian Scali and screenwriter Stephen Lewis tell me when asked about what they have lined up for guests when staying with them.

Christian and Stephen have done what many of us dream of – made that big Italian move – and what’s more they are keen to share their home with others. “We chose to work with independent brands and partners that may not be the obvious choice for a first timer’s visit to the region; such as discovering the boutique family-owned and run Chianti winery of Poggio Amorelli, where our guests are treated like extended family over a long lunch and wine tasting experience, or a ceramic painting workshop with a leading Tuscan artist, Nicoletta Penco.”

I was to find out more about this stunning passion-project throughout my time at Villa Ardore – an exquisitely restored 16th-century stone farmhouse the pair have opened together here – but for now it was time to throw myself into a ceramic painting class in Gaiole – a charming village dominated by an imposing castle.

Seeing this side of a region I thought I already knew, as we drive to Florence for a day of handpicked local pursuits, was eye-opening. Turning back to Christian, who had a deep familiarity with Tuscany even before he finally moved here, you better understand its uniqueness. “There’s a beauty to the Tuscan countryside that’s just unlike other places. When you see those rolling, vineyard-covered hills, the cypress-lined roads, and stone houses, there’s no mistaking that it’s Tuscany. And there’s something about that atmosphere that just fills our hearts and allows us to relax. But what really makes the region so special for us is the people. Local Tuscans have such open hearts and are so filled with love for the region that they want to share it with you. We really have felt so embraced by the local community – it’s probably that more than anything that has made us feel so deeply at home here so quickly.”

Florence is one of the most-visited cities in the world and was once regarded as the centre of the Renaissance. Ponte Vecchio and the ornate cathedral are iconic landmarks that remain popular but there’s is no denying that the millions of annual visitors also make it difficult to explore the city at times. One of the great things about taking tips from locals like Christian and Stephen is that they can suggest the best things to do, tailored entirely to your requests. Wanting to do something in Florence that harked back to the artistic excellence of the past here, I visited two fascinating locations that few would think of experiencing. This also meant that we avoided the crowds even during a busy autumnal period in the city, which showed off the cobbled streets and medieval architecture in the best possible light.

Antico Setificio Fiorentino is a functioning silk workshop which uses centuries-old techniques to produce some of the finest fabrics in the world. Ancient looms, some based on designs by Leonardo da Vinci whir away with careful precision and the gentle touch of expert weavers. Watching this process, handed down through generations, does lead you to wonder how the final product will come together. Its a ferocious, if precise mechanical series of events where raw materials are turned into lavish clothing. The attached store is the perfect place to see how it all comes together, and also the best type of gift shop if you want to pick up something typically Florentine as a souvenir.

You’ll find an equally ancient tradition kept alive at Il Torchio where leather bookbinding and paper marbling combine to produce exquisite keepsakes of all sizes. You can pick from a variety of options to truly personalise your notebooks, diaries, journals or anything else you can think of. Again, you’re whisked away from the bustling centre of the city, this time to Oltrarno – a neighbourhood with arts and crafts at its heart. You’ll pass perfumeries, boutique hotels and outstanding restaurants that are the lifeblood of Florence and continue to thrive today with locals and in-the-know visitors alike.

The main purpose of this trip to Italy was to sample ‘villa life’ and a change of pace from the usual holiday experience. Chianti itself is known for the earthy red wine produced at the plethora of vineyards on almost every hill you see, and it was at the family-run winery Poggio Amorelli that I caught up with Christian and Stephen again to see what motivated them in not just moving to Tuscany but to also share their home with others. Just how hard was it to find this place?

“By the time we found Villa Ardore, we had been looking at properties for over two years [for a place in Tuscany]. Although we looked at over 30 properties, from castles to palaces to farmhouses, nothing felt right. Just as we were beginning to question whether the problem was that we had set our expectations too high, a friend suggested that we have a look at a place that he had just heard about, and from the moment we arrived, we realized that we had been right to hold out. Villa Ardore had everything that we had been looking for: a beautiful structure that feels comfortable for a couple on their own but, with 8 bedrooms, is spacious enough for a large family or a group of friends; an amazing view; a tranquil setting; and is within easy reach of services like a hospital and supermarkets as well as the beautiful medieval cities of Florence and Siena. We looked at each other and both said “this is it”.”

Its quite refreshing to hear that regardless of how high you set the bar, you can still find the perfect place even if you have to search for a while. As you can imagine all the basics are taken care of here, so you don’t have to worry about transport, meals or – perhaps most importantly – WiFi. It’s the elevated experience, however, at Villa Ardore that really sets it apart from the best hotels in Florence, if you think those are the direct competitors. With 8 ensuite bedrooms, a full indoor spa with sunken jacuzzi, dry sauna, steam room, sensory shower, one of the largest heated saltwater infinity pools in Tuscany, with poolside professional bar, sound system both indoors and out, chef’s kitchen and industrial kitchen, a fully stocked bar and dedicated villa manager, Francesco (a Florentine native no less) there’s really no comparison. Themed itineraries from culinary, to adventure, culture and relaxation are available to book year-round, so guests enjoy the ability to have that ultra-tailored stay.

“We have created that luxury home experience without sacrificing any part of what makes Villa Ardore special—its deep roots as a farmhouse in one of the world’s most storied wine regions. Our goal is that everyone who stays, gets to experience the region’s hidden gems, as if they were local insiders, and to feel like they’re in the comfort of their own Tuscan home,” Christian adds.

Its at this point, having spent time with locals and explored Villa Ardore myself, that I start to think back to my plans of moving Tuscany too. Christian and Stephen shared some advice on how best to do this for anyone contemplating on doing the same.

“I think our biggest tip for anyone wanting to move abroad is to approach it with humility, but not with fear. There is something so wonderful about going to a new place with food, customs, and even a language different from one’s own. So I would say try everything, do what locals do, and learn the local language. You’re going to make mistakes and may never fully master every finer point of your new language’s grammar, but with practice you will be able to understand and be understood, and then you will no longer feel like (or be seen as) an outsider. We’ve heard of some of our fellow Americans moving to other countries, living in what are essentially expat neighborhoods, and making little unofficial U.S. zones that separate from the local community, and that, to us, seems like such a missed opportunity.”

Nightly rates at Villa Ardore start from €6,808 which includes Private Chef in-villa serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, daily housekeeping and one return luxury private transfer (from the airport or train station). When you start working it out, this makes perfect sense for a small group of fiends or family. The property is split into one main residence and a smaller building which can also accommodate a few guests. Depending on the time of year, you can also add additional experiences from luxury car hire to summer yacht breaks on the Italian Riviera. As you can imagine, weddings are also popular and there was actually a party from America arriving the weekend after I left.

Ultimately guests at Villa Ardore get the best of both worlds. You get a villa with eight modern en-suite guest rooms and amenities, available to rent only in its entirety, yet with all the perks and quality of service that we expect from a luxury hotel. The villa’s host is on hand to personalise a group’s itinerary from start to finish, making the stay truly authentic, from organising private guided visits, tastings at local wineries, artisanal workshop tours, and even to scheduling private in-villa experiences; such as cooking classes, spa treatments, and pizza-making.

The only thing stopping me from going back to Villa Ardore next year is the idea of moving to Tuscany myself!