A Bartender’s Guide to the Best Bars in Rome’s Centro Storico

In true speakeasy style, a password is needed to get through the doors of the cheekily named Club Derrière. And they’re not just any doors – the entrance is hidden behind a white wardrobe in the back room of Osteria delle Coppelle. Inside, the vibe is intimate and elegant, with candlelight gently illuminating the iron and glass bar area, studded leather sofas and weathered wooden tables. The frequently changing menus are a closely kept secret; consisting of a range of cocktails constructed around a theme, and accompanied with a side that changes the taste or experience of the drink, it’s something you’ll have to visit to experience.

Rome’s original speakeasy, Jerry Thomas opened in 2010 and has seen its clientele expand from industry insiders to cocktail enthusiasts, Romans and eager tourists. It has even made it onto the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Boccitto recommends “letting yourself be swept away by the atmosphere”, which takes its cue from the unlicensed bars of the American Prohibition era. Expect leather couches, soft jazz and exceptionally dim lighting. There are also a number of rules to abide by, including no photos with a flash and no entry without the password. Don’t try and order a vodka here; the menu focusses instead on spirits such as bourbon, gin and rum.

Hidden in the maze of sidestreets near Campo de’ Fiori, Open Baladin is a haven for craft-beer enthusiasts – there are more than 100 labels available by the bottle and another 40 on tap. Ales, lagers, stouts and unconventional brews like honey and pumpkin beer are sourced from across Italy, Europe and the USA, as well as Baladin’s own brewery. They’re served up alongside some classic pub-style food in this colourful, modern space; crowd-pleasing burgers and home-made potato chips are the mainstays of the menu.

“Don’t be fooled by the old-school barber shop that can be seen through the windows,” says Boccitto. “Downstairs is one of the most beautiful cocktail bars in the capital.” The Barber Shop, like many of Rome’s speakeasy bars, is often referred to as hipster, but it exceeds that label – it has both style and substance, as is demonstrated in its menu of carefully curated cocktails. The classics, like the rob roy and the old fashioned, rub shoulders with more innovative, modern creations such as the Ginger Fizz, which is made with rum, ginger beer, cream and mint liqueur.

Drink Kong forgoes Rome’s recent speakeasy trend, forging a path of its own to great success. Opened in late 2018, the large venue recalls, as Boccitto puts it, “a not too distant future, or a visionary past”. Think neon signs, ’80s arcade games and black-and-white chequered floors. As well as the main bar, there’s a luxurious lounge, live music in the Jungle Room and a Japanese-themed room that hosts private tastings and mixology classes. Described as an “instinct bar”, Drink Kong has a minimalist menu that reveals the main alcohol of each drink but not the other ingredients. Instead mixologists shake, stir and serve according to whether guests prefer a bitter, dry or sweet taste.

APT is the bar that wants to “recreate an apartment, where guests breathe in the same atmosphere as a party at home, with [owner] Vincenzo as the impeccable host”, says Boccitto. Only, with its subterranean location, book-lined walls and vintage photos, this place is almost definitely cooler than your actual home. Located in Monti, Rome’s oldest neighbourhood, APT attracts a fashionable crowd with its punchy cocktails served in crystal-cut glasses, floral teacups and other vintage-style vessels. Don’t be afraid to ask for a drinks recommendation from the knowledgeable staff, who are happy to help find the perfect concoction for you.

Il Goccetto is the perfect example of an Italian enoteca(wine bar). The cosy, compact bar has long been a favourite among Rome’s residents and is packed with wines from across Italy. Choose a vintage from the wall-to-wall shelving (prices start at about €15 a bottle) or sip on something from the by-the-glass menu for about €6-10. A small selection of delicious meats, cheeses and other savoury snacks is also available to pair with your chosen tipple. Space is limited, so if there are no tables available, take your drink outside and hang out with friends underneath the charming, hand-painted ‘Vino e Olio’ shop sign.

Both contemporary bar and cultural association, Drop is a multifunctional space dedicated to creative recreational experiences. The bar is one of Boccitto’s favourites thanks to its “stone archways, eccentric furnishings, vivid colours and electrifying atmosphere”. There’s also a stage for live music and DJ sets. Behind the bar, Drop has made the conscious choice to stock the sustainable Elephant Gin – a brand recognised for its environmental and social commitments. Be sure to check the bar’s Facebook page for events, which include mixology masterclasses, photography workshops and other creative courses.

“A melting pot in the heart of the Eternal City” is how Boccitto describes this idiosyncratic bar. Located right near the Trevi Fountain, Baccano takes inspiration from both the traditional French brasserie and the contemporary New York restaurant. The space is light and airy and comprises restaurant, bistro, cocktail bar and oyster bar. In terms of food, there’s everything from Roman cacio e pepe pasta to caesar salad, burgers and lobster rolls. The philosophy of the venue – to achieve the perfect balance between tradition and modernity – is evident in the cocktail menu, which includes updated interpretations of the classics such as the manhattan and the negroni.