When you consider that Dresden was almost wiped off the map by Allied bombing in 1945, the city’s remarkable renaissance is all the more impressive. In fact, Dresden is today nicknamed Florence on the Elbe, a city that combines baroque architecture with a thriving modern arts scene and lively nightlife. On top of this, you’re just a hop, skip and a jump away from some of Germany’s most stunning wilderness. Here are some of the top things to see and do while you’re there.
Head to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Picture Gallery) in the extensive Zwinger palace complex (see below), and study the most famous view of Dresden – Canaletto’s Dresden Seen From the Right Bank of the River Elbe Below the Augustus Bridge. This 18th-century masterpiece from the Venetian great portrays the city’s Baroque gems in all their glory, before they were destroyed in the February 1945 bombings during World War II. Then go to the right bank of the Elbe, near the Augustusbrücke to the spot where Canaletto’s view was conceived, and look across to the new-old cityscape. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Bundeswehr Military History Museum
Museum
The Bundeswehr Military History Museum is fabulous to get a handle on warfare in general, but also on German military history. It recently received a stylish update from star architect Daniel Liebeskind. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Visit the Zwinger Palace
Historical Landmark
Immerse yourself in a world of festivals and historical drama when you try out Zwinger Palace’s virtual experience, which takes you back to 1709 the minute you don your headset. Then it’s time to really explore this magnificent baroque palace. Don’t miss The Crown Gate, topped with a huge replica of the Polish Crown worn by Augustus the Strong, and the beautiful Nymph’s bath fountain. The royal mansion also boasts an impressive collection of Old Masters, including Raphael’s Sistine Madonna.
New Synagogue
Synagogue
In 1938, thousands of Jewish buildings across Germany, including many synagogues, were destroyed by the Nazis. Of the many rebuilt in recent decades, Dresden’s is one of the best in the former East Germany. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
The World of the GDR
Communism reigned in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR, but DDR in German) across five decades, and its legacy continues to affect politics and culture here. The notion of ‘Ostalgie’ is often thrown at people who grew up under communist rule, who get positively nostalgic about the period. True or not, visitors to Die Welt der DDR museum don’t have to have experienced real-life communism to enjoy a fascinating glimpse of what life was like in Dresden between 1945 and 1989. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
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Explore Frauenkirche
Cathedral
Symbolising the city of Dresden itself, the Frauenkirche, or Lady’s Church, rose from the ashes when it was rebuilt after it was bombed in 1945. However, it’s an exact replica of the original Lutheran church and visitors love the splendour of the octagonal hall and ornate altar. Climb up to the 67m (220ft) high viewing platform of the stone dome – it is well worth the effort as it offers unrivalled views over Dresden. Maria, one of the original bells from 1734, also lives up there. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Meissen porcelain
The Meissen porcelain manufacturer is nowadays actually around 26 km (16 miles) from Dresden but it started life within the old city. Dresden was, of course, home to the first Europeans to discover the secrets of hard-paste porcelain, and the prestige of its producs continues to the present day. Recommended by Paul Wheatley. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Jazz events
Bar
If you’re in Dresden for even a short period, there is a chance you’ll happen upon a festival or two during your stay. The International Dixieland Festival Dresden will hit its 48th edition in May 2018 and continues to be a major success – claimed to be the largest ‘old-time jazz’ festival in Europe, it features bands from across the planet. Fans of more modern jazz will enjoy the several-week November Jazztage festival. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Prepared to be dazzled by gold, crystal and diamonds when you visit The Royal Treasury. Back in 1724, only those wearing clean clothes were able to view the priceless treasures of Augustus the Strong. Now, visitors from far and wide come to admire this collection of 3,000 pieces. The ornate, gold and mirrored rooms are works of art themselves, but the real jewel in the crown is the famous Mohr mit Smaragdstufe (Moor with Emerald Cluster) statuette. Be warned, visitor numbers are limited.
Walk along the bank of the Elbe River
Natural Feature
Take in Dresden’s many spires and domes as you stroll along the northern banks of the Elbe river, a must for visitors to the city. The banks are a hive of activity, from families barbecuing and fishing boats bobbing past to al fresco cinema nights. Start at the Augustus Brücke and make your way down to the Albert Brücke before crossing to complete your loop. Tired legs? Hop on one of the numerous river tours available to view the city from the water.
City Festival
Architectural Landmark
Another major annual marker on the calendar is the Dresden Stadtfest city festival, also known as Canaletto, which celebrates the foundation of Dresden. It takes place in the third weekend of August and features thousands of artists, attracting more than half a million visitors. Favourites are the arts and crafts from the Middle Ages, jousting tournaments, musical events and – of course – the obligatory fireworks. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Take a ride on the Schwebebahn
Train Station
The Schebebahn or ‘floating train’ of Dresden is the oldest suspension railway in the world. It was first used in 1901 and hangs on a single rail from above. But don’t worry, it’s perfectly safe and it’s a fun, affordable way to explore the area. Catch the monorail from Loschwitz on the River Elbe and travel to the district of Oberloschwitz. Soak up the views of the countryside as you ascend 84m (276ft) up the steep mountainside.
Loschwitz
If you want to see how some of the richest people in the world lived in the 1920s and 1930s, have a stroll around Loschwitz, a Dresden suburb. It’s packed with villas and there is a rare funicular railway with a great view of the valley below. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
The Blue Wonder Bridge is – as its name suggests – a wonder of engineering in the aforementioned Loschwitz area of town. Built in two years at the end of the 19th century, this iron and steel bridge stretches 141.5 metres (464 feet) across the River Elbe and leads to huge meadows that give the city a green heart. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Dresden’s iconic Old Town Square is surrounded by the city’s landmarks – from the Zwinger to the Cathedral as well as several galleries and museums. Sit by the statue of the 19th-century ruler, King John of Saxony, and enjoy an ice cream before taking a guided tour of the neo-renaissance Semper Opera House. It’s known for its lavish auditorium and world-beating acoustics. Time it right and you can enjoy a performance from the Saxon State Opera.
Gerhard Richter at the Albertinum
Museum
Born in Dresden in 1932, artist Gerhard Richter was fortunate that he was too young to fight in World War II. However, the hardship of Nazi period, including the war years and their aftermath, shaped him and his work. Dresden’s New Masters Gallery (Galerie Neue Meisters) in the Albertinum museum holds the Richter Archive, and shows a selection from this modern master. There are also works by Monet, Caspar David Friedrich and Degas, among other art greats. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Admire the view from Brühl’s Terrace
Historical Landmark
Nicknamed the Balcony of Europe, Brühl’s Terrace was once the ramparts of a fort built to protect the city. Now, the fortification has been replaced by a beautiful garden and the terrace serves as a promenade, offering incredible views of the river. Four sculpture groups on the staircase represent morning, noon and night. From here, you can see over to the New Town. Look out for local artists peddling their wares along the terrace. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Having taken place a grand total of 583 times, the annual Dresdener Striezelmarkt claims to be the oldest Christmas market in the world still running. It opens at the end of November and continues until Christmas Eve, and contains a whole host of Christmassy events, from carol singing through to an award ceremony for a Gingerbread Queen. While in the Altstadt (Old Town), buy a Dresden Christstollen, the cake which gives the market its historic name: ‘struzel‘ or ‘striezel‘ is old German for this long, baked yeast product crafted into a woven shape. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Festung Dresden
Festung Dresden is a fortress situated beneath Brühl’s Terrace, and includes some of the oldest still existing Renaissance parts of the city. Opened to the public back in 1814, the vaults, casemates and a surviving city gate attract many visitors every year. The interior is undergoing refurbishment at the moment, and is due to re-open next year with the exhibition ‘Splendor. Tears. Disaster. Closer than ever‘ outlining more than 450 years of history. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
The Hofkirche is the city’s wonderful Catholic cathedral and has been an architectural gem of the cityscape since the middle of the 1750s. It’s also home to the remains of many members of the royal family and an 18th-century Gottfried Silbermann organ. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
Shop at the beautiful Pfunds Molkerei
Architectural Landmark
The Dresdner Molkerei Gebrüder Pfund calls itself ‘the most beautiful milk shop in the world’ and it’s easy to see why. Decked out in ornate hand-painted ceramic tiles, it certainly isn’t like any other dairy we’ve ever seen. Locals and tourists visit for the milk, liquor, wine, cheese and yoghurt on offer. If you’re after an unusual gift, the speciality milk soap promises to leave your skin silky smooth. There’s also a restaurant serving traditional Eierschecke (similar to cheesecake), ice cream and shakes.
Kulturpalast
Concert Hall, Library
On April 28, 2017, the long-planned renovation of Dresden’s Kulturpalast arrived, though in fact it was actually something of a second coming. The Kulturpalast is considered an iconic piece of East German communist-era architecture and was first opened back in 1969. Its recent modernisation includes a new concert hall, and is home to the city’s philharmonic orchestra, as well as the city library. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
With its strange rock formations, sandstone cliffs and towering peaks, the Saxon Switzerland Mountains are the only rock national park in Germany. Loved by climbers, the 700sqm (7534sqft) area is also a huge draw for hikers, cyclists or those just hoping to lose themselves in the wilderness. Look out for otters, eagle owls and even the odd dormouse or two. Trains leave Dresden every 30 minutes to Bad Schandau on the edge of the park.
Großer Garten park
Botanical Garden, Museum, Park
Like most of the best big-sized cities in Germany, green spaces are vital for quality of life. Dresden is blessed with a number of parks and other green areas, with the Großer Garten the best and largest amid the hubbub of the city and within touching distance of the Altstadt. As well as sports arenas, palaces, art and lakes, there is the German Hygiene Museum and the Botanical Garden. Recommended by Paul Wheatley
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