Marseille is a great place to have some unique experiences that you might not find anywhere else. Here’s our list of things that are a little off the beaten track.
Experience The Blue Hour
There is a reason that painters have been coming to Provence for centuries; there is a very different light that you find here, that you don’t find anywhere else. When the sun rises and when it goes to bed, you’ll notice what Cézanne, Van Gogh and all the other great residents of the region noticed, The Blue Hour. It can be magical, particularly with a glass of wine in your hand and a sea view.
Eat Bouillabaisse, the Local Soup Delicacy
Bouillabaisse is a fish soup that comes specifically from Marseille and the surrounding coastline. Fishermen used to make soup with the rockfish they caught that they couldn’t sell in the market. They added Provençal herbs and simmered it over a period of a few hours. Nowadays, it’s a cultural delicacy – order it in advance (sometimes 48 hours) at the best restaurants, expect to pay at least €40 per head and most restaurants only take orders for more than 2 people. Read our guide on where to eat the best bouillabaisse here.
Hike Through One of France's Natural Wonders
“Les Calanques” are a beautiful natural phenomenon on the coast surrounding both sides of Marseille. They are small inlets that have been made over the centuries and where people now hike down to the restaurants and beaches at the bottom. (You can’t always drive down because of overcrowding or risks of fire). People love the Calanque de Sormiou.
Have an Authentic Hammam Experience
Cabin
Marseille has a huge Northern African influence, of which massages and hammams are an institution. People love the Bastide des Bains, near the Old Port area. It’s respectable and upmarket but great value. Have a massage in a private cabin and then head to the communal hammam to relax and unwind.
Visit a City in a City
In the 1950s, Marseille was struggling to house everyone after World War Two and to provide all the amenities that people needed. Its solution was the Cité Radieuse – a housing complex that was a little city within a city. It was made from cement to keep the cost down. The architect was Corbusier and he became associated with a brutal style of architecture (“brut” is the French word for cement). This complex is a wonderful architectural experience, where you can wander the apartments, shops, restaurant, doctor’s surgery and cafe that you find inside. Head to the roof for an ultimate view of Marseille.
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Attend a Cultural Event in a Tobacco Factory
Head to La Friche, a huge urban space at the side of the railway tracks. Every weekend you’ll find something different going on – a mega music festival, a DJ spinning tunes on the roof, an art workshop for kids, etc. There’s also a lovely restaurant, playground, skate park and book shop.
Scale a Bridge from the Old World to the New
Bridge, Building, Museum
The MUCEM is the new Museum of European and Mediterranean Culture. It’s a beautiful modern building with amazing art and a wonderful roof terrace. The best part is that there is a bridge that spans the road and leads into the very old (and beautifully restored) Fort St Jean, next door. It’s a great place to admire both old and new Marseille.
Provence is loved for its Mediterranean cuisine but Marseille also offers some wonderful North African cuisine with a French twist. Head to the couscous restaurants by Noailles metro station or by the main St Charles train station. The food here is quick and cheap at many of the sit-down restaurants. For something a little more upmarket, head to the Cours Julien area, where you’ll find some interesting and varied types of African restaurants. The area is edgy but lively and fun.
Imagine Being Locked Up for a Crime You Didn't Commit
The old fortress island of Château d’If is tiny but because of the strong currents around it, it was used as a prison in the 1800s, just like Alcatraz in San Francisco. Author Alexandre Dumas used the prison as a backdrop to his fictional story, The Count of Monte Cristo, where his hero was unjustly locked up for years. He escapes, seeks revenge and becomes very rich. Visitors today have an easier journey; it’s just a short ferry ride from Marseille’s Old Port.
English writer in France. Swapped a hectic life in the city of London for an easy-going southern French vibe. I still work just as hard but on my own terms and on my own time. I enjoy travelling, writing, working, hanging out with friends and family... and of course meeting the amazing people and seeing the wonderful things this country has to offer. www.alexledsom.com
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