22 Best Kept Secrets to Discover in Lyon

While you should still explore the stately Roman amphitheatre on Fourvière Hill, visiting Lyon’s Roman Baths in the same district gives visitors a glimpse into the city’s fascinating history away from the crowds. Hidden behind an apartment complex, the baths date back to the second and third centuries and are on three tiered terraces, although only two are now visible. Easy to overlook, they are free to visit and worth tracking down for an insight into daily life in Lugdunum, as ancient Lyon was once known.

Hidden from sight in Lyon’s Old Town are the unmissable traboules, a network of passages that cut through the city via secret courtyards, through buildings and up secluded staircases. Though some date back to Roman times, most are likely from the 19th century when silk weavers transported their precious materials across town. The traboules were later used by the Resistance during World War II. Wander the streets of the Old Town to try and find them (start on rue Saint-Jean) or pick up a map from the tourist office for clues. There are also guided tours held every Saturday if you want to learn more – or avoid getting lost.

If you need a little corner of the city to call your own, Sofffa is an innovative venue that fits the bill perfectly. With bookshelves, china teacups, mismatched cushions and a jumble of well-worn armchairs, the space is whatever you need it to be: a café, work spot, meeting point or hub of inspiration. There are no waiters or menus. Just collect an alarm clock when you arrive, find a space to curl up in and help yourself to free tea, coffee and snacks. You only pay for the time you’re there. €6 (£5.07) for the first hour, or €29 (£24.52) for the whole day. There are also regular art exhibitions, pop-up shops and even drop-in experts, including lawyers and accountants, who will answer any burning questions you may have for free.

After starting life as a collective of Lyonnais squatters who waged war with the authorities for over a decade, Grrrnd Zero finally opened its permanent home in Vaulx-en-Velin in late 2019. Set in a dilapidated office building and factory, the space was created entirely by volunteers and took four years to complete. It now hosts a packed schedule of events, from underground club nights and live music to cinema screenings and exhibitions. The space remains committed to low-priced tickets and drinks. Providing workspaces for activists, artists and writers, it has become the unofficial centre of alternative culture in Lyon.

Though Lyon is famous for its gourmet offerings, HEAT is a taste of something a little different. Set in the city’s newest neighbourhood, La Confluence, by the Musée des Confluences, this laid-back food hall opened in July 2019. It features a gaggle of communal tables, an open-air dining hangar, bar and shipping containers filled with ever-changing street-food kitchens. From ice cream to Asian food, pancakes to pizza, it’s a great place to meet friends, grab a drink (or two) and graze on some of the city’s best food.

No need to kill time in the waiting room if you find yourself stuck at the Lyon Perrache station. Instead, head up to the fourth floor, and look for the “jardins de Perrache” signs; here, discover the station’s unexpected rooftop gardens, maintained by a group of local volunteers. Usually, there is a gardener on duty to answer any questions you might have about the plants, flowers and vegetables growing here. Alternatively, find a quiet corner and gaze at the panoramic views of the city below. It beats nursing a coffee on the platform any day.

Lyon is famous for its silk-weaving industry, and this workshop is a rare chance to see behind the scenes of the last family weaving workshop in the Croix-Rousse region. In operation since the 19th century, the workshop houses a production and living area, with looms, a kitchen and a tiny bedroom frozen in time. It can now only be seen on a guided tour where visitors can learn about Lyon’s silk-weaving past and watch a weaving demonstration on a 19th-century handloom.

There is no shortage of great bars in Lyon, but you need insider knowledge to find Bar du Passage. Look for the sign for Le Passage restaurant on Rue du Plâtre, and then walk to the end of the alley and ring the bell once to be admitted. Inside, this intimate dimly lit bar feels like a relic from another era, complete with traditional leather armchairs, vintage mirrors and murmuring jazz. It’s open until 3am on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and while drinks don’t come cheap, you still won’t want to leave.

There is no shortage of green spaces to take time out from the hustle and bustle of Lyon, but few are as tranquil as the Jardin du Palais Saint-Pierre. In the very heart of the city near the Place des Terreaux, the garden is tucked within the walls of the Museum of Fine Arts and was once an old abbey cloister. It’s now a peaceful spot shaded by lime and birch trees, complete with plenty of benches and a handful of sculptures, including a small statue of Apollo, the god of arts.

Skip over-priced restaurants and indulge Lyonnaise-style with a feast of glorious cheese and a large glass of red wine instead. Though it doesn’t look like much from the outside, this tiny cheese shop is one of the best places to get your fill of French fromage in the city. Ask for advice from owners and cheesemakers Sophie and Julien, and buy a stash for a picnic. Alternatively, visit in the summer and eat a cheese platter with local wine on the shop’s small street-facing terrace.

Hidden in the courtyard of a building in the trendy Croix-Rousse neighbourhood are the Rosa Mir Gardens. Created by Spanish refugee and craftsman Jules Senis, the Gaudiesque gardens are reminiscent of a small-scale Park Guell in Barcelona: columns and beams tiled with shells and stones, with flowers and greenery dotted throughout. Senis suffered from cancer, and he died in 1983. Throughout his years of treatment and hospitalisation, he was determined to build the garden of his dreams and devoted the last 20 years of his life to doing so, resulting in the beautiful city oasis you can discover today. It’s free to access the garden but it is only open on Saturdays between 2pm and 5:3 pm from April to October. Recommended by Christine Wilson.

Not as grand as its famous counterpart, the Roman Theatre of Fourvière, the Trois Gaules amphitheatre offers a window into the same ancient Roman history without the crowds. While you cannot walk around this Historical Monument of France, you can still gaze at it from nearby, and get a sense of the history and what it was like in its heyday. Recommended by Christine Wilson.

The 6,000 square metre Jardin des Curiosités is found in Lyon’s fifth district, nestled on a hill and offering a magnificent bird’s-eye view of the city. It’s a view that is often captured by flocks of tourists from the famous Fourvière (which does merit a visit as well) but this is a quiet locale where locals can relax with their friends. The park was a gift from Montréal to celebrate 20 years of a cooperation agreement between the two sister cities. As part of the gift, Quebecois artist, Michel Goulet, created six charming hair sculptures with poetic inscriptions engraved on their seats that face out over the city. Recommended by Christine Wilson.

This epic mastery of the artistic genre trompe l’oeil (an optical illusion), is located in the Croix-Rousse district. The mural shows buildings and people painted on a flat wall, using such detailed depth that it appears to be a real extension of the neighbourhood. Be sure to get up close to see the small details of the painting, which was first started in 1987 by a group of Lyonnais artists. Recommended by Christine Wilson.

Approximately 12km north of Lyon’s city centre is the eclectic Musée l’Organe, also known as La Demure du Chaos (House of Chaos). This former Protestant church-turned-concept-museum was created in 1999 by French artist and businessman, Thierry Ehrmann. Not your typical museum, it covers 12,000 square metres and showcases 5,400 works from over 70 artists. Most of the works depict dark and troubling scenes derived from terror attacks, riots, and catastrophic events. Not for the Mary Poppins crowd, but ideal if you’re into art that pushes boundaries. Recommended by Christine Wilson.

Nestled on Les Pentes de la Croix-Rousse, La Grooverie is a bar that epitomises the quarter’s cool, retro vibe. Inside you’ll find leather sofas, vintage game machines and vinyl record sleeves adorning the walls – and there’s often a cult film classic being silently projected too! However, it’s the people as much as the decor that give it its atmosphere: Hip, open and friendly, La Grooverie attracts a stylish crowd. What’s more, there’s live music from Tuesday to Saturday, from music jams and open mic nights to jazz sessions. If you’re into live music and love to groove, La Grooverie in Lyon’s 1st arrondissement is the place to be. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

A stone’s throw from La Grooverie you will find the charming little open space that is Place Sathonay, which will make you forget that this is the centre of France’s third-largest city. A tree-lined square surrounded by bars, cafés and Lyon’s 1st arrondissement’s city hall, this quaint spot is a popular destination for pétanque players. Visit the nearby Broc’Bar, a bar with colourful red and yellow seating, for a perfect place to sit with a drink and people watch. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

Tucked away just off the grand Rue de la République, this charming little bookshop would be easy to miss, if it weren’t for its breathtaking front door. An impressive tower of precariously-stacked, hardback books arch over the doorway, meaning entering the shop feels like passing through the enchanted wardrobe into a Narnia of books! Once inside, the magic continues with ceiling-high bookcases with wooden ladders to reach the topmost shelves. And if this isn’t enough to satisfy your thirst for culture, Le Bal des Ardents also regularly hosts poetry evenings, author meetings, lectures, talks and debates. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

With three stores in the Terreaux district, the little empire of La Librairie la Bourse proposes a retro haven of first- and second-hand books, vinyl and DVDs. It specialises in cinema, therefore wandering between the rows of DVDs arranged by genre, author and actor feels like stepping back in time to a world before Netflix and online streaming. The eclectic playlist and pillar-box red shelving make for a fun combination – go check it out for yourself! Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

There’s nothing better on a Sunday morning than to stroll along the bank of the river Saône, surrounded by second-hand books of all topics, authors and prices. The Bouquinistes (second-hand booksellers) market offers the perfect opportunity to discover rare and interesting books as well as a selection of vinyl. Toward lunchtime, you may even catch the sellers themselves settling down for their lunch bought fresh from the market, Saint Antoine, further down the river. Once you’ve finished browsing the vintage covers, be sure to check out the Bibliothèque de la Cité (city library) mural opposite, on the corner of Rue de la Platière. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

Unassuming from the outside, Bec de Jazz is the epitome of a hole-in-the-wall venue. On entering you will be greeted by a tiny bar, from which you are obliged to buy a drink in order to proceed through to the jazz room. Modest, dark and with art on every inch of wall, Bec de Jazz feels like being in your friend’s living room, except there’s a piano in the corner on which someone plays spectacular live jazz piano. Expect great jazz music and lots of dancing, Bec de Jazz is a popular destination for those in the know. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.

Every evening throughout the summer, the space under the arcades of Lyon’s Opera house gets transformed into a jazz concert venue. Dine during the day in the shade of the arcades or have a drink in the evening while listening to every colour of jazz music that the region has to offer. There’s no entry fee and no need to reserve in advance, this jazz café terrace has a convivial, laid-back feel – a perfect place in Lyon’s 1st arrondissement for those balmy summer nights. Recommended by Charlotte Cornish.