A Grand Return for Brussels’ Most Prestigious Address, the Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria

It is now emblazoned with a glamorous modern title from its latest owner, Corinthia, but retains the immense legacy of the Astoria. It’s a naming convention that aptly reflects the masterful work of chief renovating architect, Francis Metzger, who has seamlessly reinvented the hotel as a bastion of modern luxury without losing a square inch of the epic grandeur you can only find in great European hotels of the early 20th-century.

That sense of classic majesty hits you right in the face as soon as you walk in. As your murmurs of gratitude are left with the ever-present crew of smiling doormen, you’ll find your neck gently but involuntarily arching upwards, guiding your eyes to the distant 11m-tall ceiling and surrounding stained glass skylight.

When you finally get a grip of your wondrous daze you’ll start to take in the open, multi-use space of Palm Court, sitting prettily below that marvellous stained glass masterpiece. From arrival aperitivo to afternoon tea, dinner serenaded by piano or a final tipple before bed, this is the beating heart of the Corinthia. The first thing that catches your attention when you enter, and the sight your eyes remorsefully gravitate to for one final, glazed look of awe as you take the first steps back to reality after check-out.

Fortunately the grandeur doesn’t leave you in the lobby. In fact it follows you up the audacious marble staircase and all the way to whichever of the 126 rooms and suites you’ve been blessed with. The ceiling remains high, the design stays stately, only now with an added sense of intimacy.

If you can drag yourself away from the warm embrace of your heavily-cushionated bed and, after that, if you can drag yourself out of the epic walk-in rainfall shower – where the water falls like a thunderous mountain waterfall from a height Michael Jordan couldn’t reach – it’s imperative that you don’t miss out on breakfast downstairs.

You’ll already feel refreshed thanks to the luxuriating effects of the Diptyque products so generously stocked in the bathroom – as potent a sign of glamour as any in this shimmering diamond of a hotel – but expect to gain an extra bounce in the footsteps as you find yourself seated in the breakfast room.

This is the kind of elegant space you’d take your grandmother for afternoon tea in. Those signature high ceilings, propped up by towering pillars and overlooking an exquisitely precise dining area. It doesn’t have to be your 90th birthday to feel a little special as you ponder over which way to have your eggs.

Less indecision should come with the question of coffee. As you’d expect from any high-class hotel on Europe’s western front, the black stuff poured here is divine, as are the delicately crispy pastry delights, and the beautifully fresh selection of fruits that serve as a perfect breakfast appetiser.

Now is probably a good time to remind you that the Corinthia isn’t the only thing that compelled you to hop off the Eurostar and into the Belgian capital. Brussels is a distinguished city worthy of such a graceful hotel.

The stroll into town is a gentle and scenic one, as you take a mini-detour to take in the cathedral, before getting back on track through Parc de Bruxelles and past the Royal Palace. Cut through the pretty landscaping of Mont des Arts, perhaps stopping for a dash of surrealism at the Magritte Museum, before continuing your descent into the city centre.

Then it’s all about shop-hopping. Quirky boutiques, artisan designers and, of course, magnificently decadent chocolatiers populate the charming halls of the Royal Galleries. But, after stopping for a coffee and a waffle, or perhaps lunch in Galerie Bortier, you’ll begin to see how strong a creative and independent spirit this city boasts.

Bookshops and poster stores; art galleries and record shops; antiques, cinemas and so much more. Brussels is not deserving of its somewhat stuffy reputation. This isn’t a holiday camp for plain-suited EU politicians. This is a city with a distinct pulse, a creative spirit and a sense of light atmosphere that carries you through the afternoon and into the night, well into the early hours of the morning, having sampled several high-percentage beers and at least one portion of frites with mayo along the way.

It’ll catch you by surprise when you check your daily step count at the end of the day, which is why the Corinthia Spa is such an integral part of the renovated Grand Astoria. Ran in cooperation with wellness master Sisley, the spa here is large (1,200sqm) and beautifully designed, most obviously in the pool room, which can also be observed from the sauna. Sisley blend the science of wellness with the spirit of it. Natural ingredients, used by highly-skilled practitioners, in a truly invigorating environment. There’s no better way to breathe new life into those legs and set the mind at peace before dinner.

Dining options are, unsurprisingly, also of the highest calibre here. Sure, you can keep it casual with cocktails and a light dinner at Palm Court, but it would be criminal to neglect the two top-tier establishments tucked away in the corridors of Corinthia.

Palais Royal is led by the esteemed David Martin, a two-star Michelin chef whose latest venture blends classic French cuisine with the philosophies of Japanese culinary culture. It’s a fusion of styles and flavours that unravel over the course of 7, 10 or even 12 courses amid the private, exclusive surrounds of the Palais Royal.

Also tucked away but not to be ignored is Le Petit bon bon, a re-envisioning by Chef Christophe Hardiquest of his previous 2 Michelin-starred Bon Bon. This brasserie sheds the regal grandeur of the rest of the hotel in favour of an effortlessly cool speakeasy feel, elegantly designed and offering a glimpse into the masterful work ongoing in the kitchen. Dishes are steeped in Belgian tradition but playfully modern and undeniably bold. The roasted duck à l’orange will have your eyes clammed shut to savour the moment, while a creative take on the Liégeois waffle is as clever as it is delicious.

The artistry of the food once again ties in brilliantly with the work of Francis Metzger and Corinthia Hotels to reinvigorate this fabulous old Belle Epoque building. It’s a Brussels institution and one the city missed dearly since closing in 2017. The eight long years of precise and painstaking renovation has been worth the wait, however. The hospitality here is as fresh and cutting-edge as any other five star hotel, but few can compete with the sheer majesty of the Grand Hotel Astoria.

The weight of history, dating all the way back to 1910, can still be felt through these hallowed corridors. This is a place that has welcomed Presidents and Prime Ministers and been at the heart of great political change. It’s a place where Belgian Royals have wedding celebrations and Hollywood stars stop by on their Euro travels.

But it’s also a place where the local population can come for a spa day or an afternoon tea. It’s a place where they can pop in for a browse at in-house boutique Coutume, or celebrate a special occasion with dinner at one of the city’s finest restaurants.

Simply put, the city of Brussels is better off for having its most effortlessly splendid hotel back in business. Whether you’re a proud local, a royal, a celeb or a regular Joe like me with a penchant for luxury and the patience for a good deal, we can all rejoice in the return of Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria. Welcome back, old friend.

One of the great draws of Brussels is that oh-so precious status of having a Eurostar station. Barely two hours of plain-sailing across the tracks from London and you arrive not a half-hour taxi drive from your destination, but instead in the heart of the city.

Book well in advance and you can snag a deal on Premier class tickets, with which the food is surprisingly tasty (the free bubbly helps) and the lounge access a Godsend on busy travel days. It’s also worth checking out the new Eurostar Snap feature, where you can save big on last-minute availability, as long as you have the flexibility to hop on any departure throughout your chosen travel date.