The Ultimate Backpacking Guide to Borneo

Keen to backpack in Borneo but not up for the planning? Join Culture Trip’s expertly curated 10-day trip through the spectacular landscapes of Sabah. Led by our Local Insider, you’ll join a small-group of culturally curious travellers and experience the best natural wonders the island has to offer.

Backpacking in Borneo isn’t on the same scale as in Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Langkawi in West Malaysia. Relatively few take the two-hour flight to Sabah and Sarawak and even fewer visit Brunei and Kalimantan. But those who do make the journey are often lured by the ecotourism and chance to see the awesome native wildlife in Borneo. Most towns and cities are near the jungle, national parks and cultural heritage sites. But don’t expect late nights and a party scene outside Kota Kinabalu in Sabah or Kuching in Sarawak. That’s particularly true for Brunei, which adheres to Sharia law. However, you should expect to have nature-based experiences like nowhere else in Southeast Asia.

From the Danum Valley and Maliau Basin in Sabah to the jungle covering 80 percent of Sarawak, Borneo is best discovered through nature. When the rainforest is accessible, make the most of it by hiking near Kota Kinabalu, the state capital of Sabah, or visiting reserves such as Bako National Park in Kuching.

Experiencing the best ecotourism activities and wildlife in Borneo takes time and patience. It may take several hours to reach the secluded homes of wild proboscis monkeys, or to visit orangutan rehabilitation centres and world-class diving spots.

Borneo is among the most diverse regions for wildlife, landscapes and culture on the planet. The Dayak people, or the indigenous peoples of Borneo, include the Iban and Murut, the Bajau Laut ‘Sea Nomads’ and formerly pagan/animist Kadazan-Dusun. The Cultural Village in Kuching and the Monsopiad Cultural Village near Kota Kinabalu showcase their customs and traditions.

Most people backpacking in Borneo encounter fewer risks compared to West Malaysia. But you shouldn’t let your guard down. Cities transform after dark. Foreigners might get unwanted attention and petty theft is a concern. Be vigilant with possessions at all times. Drive-by bag snatching on motorbikes is common too, especially after dark. Solo female travellers are also likely to experience catcalls and unwanted male attention throughout Malaysian Borneo, especially in some parts of Kota Kinabalu.

The eastern part of Sabah from Kudat, the northernmost tip of Borneo, to Lahad Datu towards the southeast is designated as the Eastern Sabah Security Zone. Ongoing territorial disputes between Sabah and Sulu culminated when around 100 armed insurgents attempted to invade in February 2013. Regional security is high and land and sea travel restrictions apply as of 2018. Foreign tourists have been targeted as hostages for ransom in Eastern Sabah too. Piracy is a concern in the waters off the coast of Sabah and through the Straits of Melaka. While this is unlikely to affect anyone backpacking in Borneo, consult your foreign office for travel warnings before making any plans.

Affordable accommodation that’s suitable for backpackers in Borneo is easy to find in towns and cities. Hostel beds in major cities such as Kota Kinabalu start from as little as RM40 ($10.20) or less per night, while budget-friendly hotels and guesthouses often begin at RM80 ($20.40). Be aware that non-Malaysians need to pay RM10 ($2.60) per room per night as a tourist tax. Finding budget accommodation in Brunei is more challenging. Anticipate spending two to three times more than in Sabah and Sarawak. As Kalimantan is relatively unexplored, cheaper options are often more limited.

Sabah and Sarawak offer the typical selection of Malay, Indian and Chinese dishes as well as Dayak specialities in some restaurants. The cost of meals in Sabah tends to be slightly higher than in Kuala Lumpur, but will still come to less than RM20 ($5.10). Sarawak, especially Kuching, has a reputation for delicious and ultra-affordable meals. Expect a dish in some restaurants to cost as little as RM5 ($1.30). Foodies backpacking in Borneo can enjoy street food and meals at family-owned restaurants and food courts. Anyone crossing the border into Brunei will find a meal is much more expensive while Kalimantan offers spicy Indonesian favourites at prices similar to Sarawak.

If you want to chat to the local people, cultural events (especially those with few foreigners) are gold mines – just make sure to learn a couple of Malay phrases before you go. Drivers, restaurant staff and coffee shop customers are excellent sources of information too. In Malaysian Borneo, take advantage of Meetup.com, a website where locals advertise activities such as hiking trips. Backpackers tend to hang out in hostels and bars. Tourists visiting Brunei and Kalimantan might face more challenges.

All tourists need to change money into ringgits, and it’s better to do this in the country. Rates in Malaysian Borneo, Kalimantan and Brunei tend to be quite good and probably better than back home. Change some at the airport and exchange the rest in the city.

Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo offer different rates for different denominations. You’ll get better value by changing a $100 bill than a $20, and not all accept lower-value notes. Unlike other Southeast Asian destinations, such as Cambodia or Laos, it’s not advisable to go backpacking in Borneo with $1 bills.

Tourists want to explore the vast rainforests and exotic islands of Borneo. But don’t expect to find ATMs or currency exchange offices in the jungle, on islands or in rural villages. Anyone backpacking in Borneo who plans to go off the beaten path should bring plenty of ringgits.

The first port of call after arriving in Kota Kinabalu is to jump on a speedboat and hop between the islands visible from the shore. Tunku Abdul Rahman is a group of five islands, with Manukan the favourite for beaches and snorkelling. Pulau Tiga, a little further away, was featured on the first season of TV series Survivor. Expect a desert island with an unusual mud volcano in the centre.

Deep in the Sabah jungle lies the Danum Valley, an ecotourism paradise. Approximately two hours west of Lahad Datu, the conservation area combines research facilities with the chance to experience the rainforest. Wildlife, including orangutans and pygmy elephants among many others, call this area home. Hostel beds and chalets are available for overnight stays.

Sarawak, the largest state in Malaysia, is best known for its cave systems. Unesco-listed Gunung Mulu National Park has a series of jagged limestone cliffs and caves, including the most voluminous chamber in the world: the Sarawak Chamber. Three summits of the surrounding mountains exceed 1,500m (4,921ft).

Archaeologists discovered what are believed to be some of the earliest human remains in Asia dating back approximately 40 millennia inside caves in Niah. The national park, one of 25 in Sarawak and a popular day trip from Miri, has rock art, boat-shaped coffins and an abundance of edible bird nests.

In east Kalimantan, Derawan is a relatively unexplored island with white beaches, thousands of turtles and a reputation for world-class diving. Expect to see stone fish, grouper, snapper as well as ghost pipefish and a plethora of colourful corals. Both day and night dives are available. Most tourists stay in the overwater bungalows.

Everyone recognises the orange-haired primate of Borneo and Sumatra. But, with increasing deforestation and human activity, seeing one in the wild isn’t easy. Lucky tourists might catch a glimpse at Danum Valley, along the Kinabatangan River or in Bako National Park. If not, head to rehabilitation centres such as Sepilok near Sandakan in Sabah and the Matang Wildlife Centre in Sarawak to see baby or orphaned orangutans nursed back to health.

The Rainforest World Music Festival is an annual three-day cultural event in the jungle near Kuching. With Mount Santubong in the background, musicians from around the globe descend on Sarawak in July. Activities include mini-concerts, folk and traditional music, plus other arts and culture-related activities. Tickets aren’t cheap and it might feel like a splurge if you’re budget backpacking in Borneo. But attending a jungle concert isn’t an everyday experience.

Head from the shores and find dozens of islands and hundreds of diving spots. From snorkelling in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park near Kota Kinabalu to spending a day diving at Sipadan, both in Sabah, the diversity of coral and marine life is stunning.