The Ultimate Guide to Onsens in Japan

Located in central Tokyo, Hoshinoya is just minutes from Tokyo station and the Imperial Palace, proving you don’t have to venture to the rural reaches of Japan for a traditional ryokan experience. From a distance, it blends in with the other imposing buildings of Tokyo’s financial district – but inside, you’ll find the same peace and tranquillity of a countryside inn. Head to the top floor to reach the rooftop pools. Drift through the tunnel that connects the indoor and outdoor pools, and soak in the warm, saline waters high above the bright lights of the capital.

Although it’s not one of the most famous corners of Tokyo as it’s mostly known for its anime, Nerima is worth visiting just for Niwa no Yu. Surrounded by a meticulously maintained Japanese garden crafted by legendary landscape architect Kenzo Kosugi, this onsen feels worlds away from inner-city Tokyo living. The bath features indoor and outdoor tubs, as well as modern features like jacuzzis and a Finnish-style sauna. Some areas, like the sauna, are mixed-gender, and require you to wear a bathing suit.

This modern Shinagawa onsen has two bathing areas, the Moon Room and the Sun Room, and a mix of natural spring water and sento-style pools such as a denki-buro (electric bath). The main attraction in the chic, dark Moon Room is the natural kuro-yu, or black water, while the light and airy Sun Room is focused on a lightly carbonated pool. Both are said to be excellent for skin beautification. They alternate between genders each day, so check in advance. Guests with tattoos are welcome.

Escape the tourist-trodden streets of the city for the tranquil mountain town of Kurama, under an hour away. Kurama Onsen is a ryokan (Japanese-style inn) with a variety of indoor and outdoor hot-spring baths. It’s best enjoyed as part of an overnight stay, but day guests are welcome. Flanked by towering Japanese cedar trees, it’s stunning all year round – but especially so in winter when the area is dusted with snow.

Despite its name, Funaoka Onsen is actually a sento – and it’s possibly the city’s most interesting. It has an impressive number of baths, including a rotenburo (a relaxing outdoor pool), traditional cypress-wood tub and even one with a mild electric current pulsing through the water. But the most intriguing detail is in the changing areas, which are decorated with elaborate wood carvings. The sento is surprisingly liberal for such a traditional city, even welcoming visitors with large tattoos.

The area around Fukushima city is rich in hot springs, so over the centuries onsen towns have developed and flourished here. Today, you can visit Iizaka Onsen for traditional food and historic buildings, Takayu Onsen for a great range of baths or Tsuchiyu Onsen for nature and crafts. Tsuchiyu also has particularly rich alkaline spring waters, and its beautiful hiking routes and cute local kokeshi dolls – which you can try decorating yourself at the Matsuya Bussan shop for a small fee – make it an appealing overnight stop.

Yumori may be a bright, modern hostel, but you’ll still find plenty of traditional onsen culture amid the pristine dorms. The hot water has been flowing here since ancient times, and the alkaline minerals are still as effective at healing skin diseases. The large public bath is filled with water from natural sources, and also welcomes day visitors. For a post-swim snack, the cafe and bar serve a simple menu of coffee, craft beer and basic lunches of rice, soup and in-house pickles.

When it comes to hot springs, Kinosaki – a three-hour drive north of Kyoto – is the town to be. If you’re staying at Nishimuraya Honkan, you’ll get free access to all seven of the town’s public onsen, although you’ll have to tear yourself away from the hot springs right under your nose at the ryokan first. Set in a lush grove of bamboo, choose between an indoor and outdoor Kichino-yu bath in the Japanese-style or the more unusual – but equally relaxing – Fukuno-yu, a Chinese-style hot spring decorated using round shapes, patterned tiles and natural rocks.

If you only have time to visit one onsen in Hida-Takayama, make it Hidatei Hanaougi: it’s the most luxurious ryokan in the area, and the waters are rich in sodium hydrogen carbonate, pumped up 1,200m (3,937ft) from an underground spring. For those who are a little shy, the facility has private baths available for both overnight and day guests.

Just a few minutes’ walk from the old town, this ryokan has an old-fashioned yet relaxed feel. You can enjoy traditional Japanese hospitality, from kaiseki meals to cypress-wood baths, and are encouraged to go for a moonlit stroll through the historic streets in your yukata robe. The private bath on the fifth floor is the ideal place to relax while you take in a view over the city and towards the mountains beyond.

The KAI brand owns several boutique ryokans across Japan, but don’t think you’re sacrificing local flavour for generic luxury. On Yamashiro Onsen’s main square, the 400-year-old ryokan building is filled with traditional Kaga artworks and regional craft, from tea sets to wall hangings. There are three baths filled with water from the low-alkaline waters of Yamashiro Hot Springs. Depending on which you visit, you’ll be able to soak with a view of beautiful tile artwork, colourful stained-glass windows or views over the ornamental pine gardens. Tattoos are allowed at KAI Kaga, but only if they’re small enough to be covered by four skin-coloured seals.

If you’re in Fukuoka, Mount Yufu is a must-see, and the best way to view it is from the rural hot spring town of Yufuin. Just 6mi (10km) from the famous resort of Beppu, Yufuin distinguishes itself with its laid-back atmosphere and surprising cultural scene – the small town has multiple art galleries and independent shops.

Yufuin Gettouan is the gold standard, with well-maintained open-air baths surrounded by lush green foliage. The main building is a 300-year-old traditional Japanese home, and luxurious guest villas – all with private baths – are dotted around the extensive grounds. Access to the main baths is free for staying guests, while day visitors can use them for a fee.

A much-loved symbol of the area, Shitan-yu is a simple public bath by Lake Kinriko, with a beautiful thatched roof. The facilities are very basic and there are only two pools – one inside, and one outside – but it makes for a relaxing, pared-back experience, and is the only public bath in town open to non-residents. It’s also mixed-gender, which is relatively rare, so is a popular option for families.

Privacy is paramount at this luxurious ryokan, where each spacious room comes with its own open-air hot spring bath. Unlike many of the other ryokans, there’s no communal lounge or bath, so even when the hotel’s nine rooms are fully booked, you’ll still feel like the only guests staying there. While there’s no direct view of Mount Fuji from the hotel, you’ll be spoiled for mountain views as you explore the local area, including nearby Lake Kawaguchi, which is just a short stroll away.

Located just two hours from Tokyo by bus, this onsen hub sits at the base of Mount Fuji. The complex is home to over 10 baths, all designed to give guests a clear view of the mountain, but the main drawcard is the panoramic view of Fuji-san from the large rotenburo. There are also relaxation spaces and shops inside, so it’s easy to spend a whole day here.

Within the city limits of Kobe, on the other side of Mount Rokko, is Arima Onsen. This resort – named one of Japan’s Three Famous Hot Springs along with Gero and Kusatsu – has been attracting visitors for over 1,000 years with its two unusual waters: kinsen (golden spring), which is a reddish brown due to its high iron content, and ginsen (silver spring), which is clear and rich in radium and carbonate. You can try them out at the public baths Kin no Yu and Gin no Yu, both of which are tattoo-friendly.

On a hill overlooking the town centre, Arima Grand Hotel is a sprawling, luxurious ryokan complex. It boasts open-air baths looking over the town, secluded indoor baths and private baths. If you’re feeling a little shy about going nude, make a beeline for the Aqua Terrace and Spa, which is more like a Western spa facility – and where bathing suits are compulsory. Stay for a night or two if you want the full experience, or just visit for the day.

The Arima Onsen is one of the oldest in Japan and has two different types of springs: silver and gold. There’s no difference in quality with these labels – rather the type of elements infused in the water and their nourishing properties. Set back in a peaceful location on the Mount Rokko mountainside, Taketoritei Maruyama offers both varieties across its eight private onsen rooms for guests only. These relaxed private rooms are ideal for small families, couples and solo travellers.

Noboribetsu Sekisuitei is at its most beautiful in winter, when guests are treated to a view of the snowy mountain landscape while keeping warm in the baths. There’s nothing quite like soaking in the steaming waters of one of the two open-air baths while watching delicate snowflakes fall from the sky and evaporate before they hit the water.

Noboribetsu Onsen is famous for its profusion of springs – and of the 10 different types of water found here, five feed the baths at Daiichi Takimotokan. As such, you can enjoy everything from the red-toned waters of a sodium spring to a warming soak in a salt-rich bath at Takimotokan’s 35 different baths. It’s the largest hot-spring complex in Hokkaido, so although popular, guests have plenty of room to spread out. An overnight stay is recommended, but the baths are also open to day guests for a fee.

You’ll find Kuramure in north Hokkaido, two hours’ drive up from Noboribetsu Onsen. Choose the outdoor bath to soak to the soundtrack of the Asari River flowing nearby – or if you’d rather bathe in private without worrying about opening times or remembering onsen etiquette, the baths in each room are also connected to the hot springs. After a peaceful soak, browse the art gallery featuring local artists or head to the library and lose yourself in Kuramure’s collection of books and records.

For that back-to-nature feel, you can’t beat Kotan Onsen Rotenburo, one of the best-maintained springs in the area. In an Ainu village, this small open-air bath is right on the edge of Lake Kussharo, offering spectacular views over the water. Though it’s glorious in all seasons, winter is the time to come: the hot spring creates an area on the otherwise-frozen lake where ice doesn’t form, and whooper swans congregate to enjoy the warm water alongside human bathers. As it’s very public, swimsuits are acceptable at this hot spring, and visitors with tattoos are welcome.

It is said that the waters of Kurokawa Onsen can heal nerve pain, muscle aches and even hysteria. True or not, the quiet inns and open-air hot springs of the resort will certainly calm you, with Yamamizuki being the number-one recommendation in the area. This open-air bath is surrounded by the mountain foliage, which is stunning all year round – but especially so in November, when the leaves transform from green into vibrant, shades of gold, orange and red.

Dogo Onsen Honkan is officially the oldest hot spring in Japan, with a history that stretches back over 3,000 years – though it welcomes guests with tattoos. Throughout its lifetime, the history and stunning architecture of the bathhouse have inspired countless works of art, and it was one of the inspirations behind Studio Ghibli’s well-known film Spirited Away. The current incarnation of the bathhouse was built in 1894 and has been designated an important cultural asset of Japan. It’s partially closed for restoration at the moment, with all sections set to be open again around 2026.

One of the only modern baths in historic Dogo, Asuka no Yu was built in a style reminiscent of the ancient Asuka period, and serves as an annex to the Honkan. It combines traditional architectural details with local crafts and modern technologies, creating a calm and luxurious space in which guests can relax at their leisure. The complex has both indoor baths and a rotenburo, unlike Dogo Onsen Honkan. It also offers the unusual experience of bathing in a yukatabira or yucho robe – a precursor to the modern yukata – in a replica of the Honkan bath reserved for the exclusive use of the Imperial Family.

One of Beppu’s longest-established onsen, Takegawara is the best place to try out a sand bath. It’s an old building, dating back to 1879, so the main non-sand bath is pretty worn out – but Takegawara is atmospheric and well-loved by locals and visitors. As an added bonus, it’s tattoo-friendly.

The modern complex at Onsen Hoyo Land is centred around a vast outdoor mud bath, where the creamy, pale-grey mud is said to have a beautifying effect on the skin. This section of the onsen is mixed-gender in places, while the other areas – where you’ll find everything from steam baths to indoor mud baths to mineral-rich hot springs – are gender segregated.

Mountaintop Ganiba Onsen is a pleasantly old-fashioned ryokan with large and small indoor and outdoor tubs. Follow the winding path down to a secluded wooded area and you’ll find the main rotenburo, a beautiful stone-lined pool with a simple changing area. Bathing suits are not allowed, so expect a very chilly dash from the changing room to warm water in winter. It’s also the only mixed-gender pool at Ganiba. Guests at the ryokan can enjoy all the baths for free, while day visitors can access them for a fee.

The dai-rotenburo (great outdoor bath) at Zao Onsen is one of the most picturesque in the country, the pale blue pools situated in a wooded valley. Unusually, it is recommended that you do not use soap here – the acidity of the water itself will remove any impurities from your skin. Unfortunately the bath is closed over winter, but in the warmer months it’s extremely popular. Guests with tattoos are welcome.

Tsuboyu is registered as a Unesco World Heritage site – the only onsen with this title. As you can imagine, it’s a popular spot, so visitors can only use the bath for 30 minutes at a time. You’ll get a ticket when you arrive, and will need to wait for your number to be called. Even a time limit can’t take the magic out of bathing here, though – relaxing in water which changes colour over the hours, surrounded by nature and ancient myths. Legend has it that the miraculous waters of Tsuboyu can bring you back from the brink of death – and they’re also said to dramatically increase fertility, so visiting couples be warned. The pool is very small, ideally fitting just two people at a time, and is shielded from view by a simple wooden cabin. Given that it’s effectively a private bath, tattoos are allowed.

The main outdoor bath at Kusatsu Onsen, Sainokawara has enough room for 100 people at a time without feeling at all crowded. There are no shower facilities – you should rinse with hot water before getting in – but the high acidity of the water means your skin will still feel squeaky clean afterwards. You can buy a hot spring-hopping ticket which covers admission to Sainokawara Rotemburo, Otakinoyu and Gozanoyu, all three of which are tattoo-friendly.

Described as a hideaway for adults, this small but stylish hotel an hour from Kusatsu Onsen has only eight rooms, each with its own open-air bath fed by the Shiragin no Yu hot springs. Reserve one of the three private, indoor baths – there are two negative ion baths, one for couples and one for groups of up to 15, and a golden hot water spring to choose from. For a less private but more traditional experience, head next door to the large communal baths at the adjoining Ikaho Onsen Fukuichi hotel, which are free to Kaichoro guests.

This luxury onsen complex boasts tatami-floored relaxation rooms, elegant courtyards and gourmet food, all of which are available to day visitors. The baths themselves are superb – and tattoo-friendly – with indoor and outdoor pools and even a grotto-like cave. You can also use some of the provided salt scrub and head into the wood cabin-style sauna, before rinsing off and submerging yourself in the cold plunge pool to really feel refreshed.

The indoor baths at Green Plaza Hotel are perfectly nice and well maintained, but visitors really come for one thing: the startlingly close view of Mount Fuji from the rotenburo, which you’ll get at surprisingly few onsen in Hakone. Overnight guests can use the baths for free, but day visitors can also access them for a fee – choose your day carefully, though, as clouds can completely obscure the peak at times. Small tattoos are allowed if they can be covered with a skin-coloured seal, available from the hotel.

Housed in a traditional wooden building, Oyu is the last of Shibu’s nine public baths, and supposedly good for neuralgia and rheumatism. It’s also the only one open to day visitors – the others are only accessible if you’re staying in a local ryokan or hotel. Though Oyu is a simple affair with only a small number of pools, the hot baths are relaxing and restorative, and the whole onsen is evocative of ancient Japan.

Technically part of Jigokudani rather than Shibu, this is the closest onsen – for humans – to the monkey park. It’s slightly worn around the edges, but the water is excellent – and you might find yourself sharing your rotenburo with the occasional simian bather. Guests with tattoos are welcome – unusual in this area – and the mixed outdoor bath (where you can wear a towel) is great for families.

Located just by the bridge over the Hida River, this large, free rotenburo is completely open and very atmospheric as the lights of the town turn on each evening. It’s mixed gender and very public – bathers are clearly visible from the bridge – so swimsuits are required.

With interiors reminiscent of the early 20th-century Taisho era and several different baths, Sasara is a luxurious place to stay. As well as the standard indoor and outdoor pools, some of which can be hired for private use, Sasara has a stone-lined sauna and an unusual private bath made from a hollowed-out, 700-year-old log.

This incredible onsen, built around a natural radium-rich spring, is located only 40 minutes from Osaka city by train. Designed by the same architect responsible for the famous Tokyo Station, the traditional, lush-green environment allows guests to indulge in the experience of bathing in another time and place – while remaining close by to a major, modern city.

This onsen has the largest rotenburo in the Kansai region. The pure, mineral hot spring water that services this rustic bathhouse draws visitors from all around the region. The onsen is split into two areas, the Wood Bath and the Stone Bath, each with their own aesthetic and with many different baths and saunas to enjoy. It’s conveniently located near Universal Studios Japan, so it’s perfect for anyone in need of a rest after waiting in line all day.

Saraku is home to Ibusuki’s well-known seaside sand baths, with picturesque rows of rainbow-striped umbrellas along the shore. It also has some good indoor tubs to relax in after you’ve been dug up again.

With sand baths, sea-view rotenburo, indoor pools and baths available for private hire, Kyukamura is the ideal place to see Ibusuki’s charms. It’s also one of the few places in Ibusuki which allows guests with tattoos to use the communal baths – though the tattoos must be small enough to be covered with a skin-coloured seal, which you must provide. Overnight guests can enjoy elaborate meals made from fresh local ingredients, but the bath facilities are also open to day visitors.

Fans of Studio Ghibli’s masterpiece Spirited Away may get a thrill of familiarity as they walk across the red bridge to Notoya Ryokan, as this inn was one of the inspirations behind the bathhouse in the film. Although it was established in 1892, the current building was constructed in the 1920s. It’s an elaborate wooden building with plenty of curious details, like a garret tower and engraved columns on the facade. As well as the usual indoor and outdoor baths, Notoya has a separate pool near the picturesque Shirogane Falls, and a private cave bath.

A modern addition to Ginzan Onsen, the main building at Fujiya was designed by architectural superstar Kengo Kuma, combining the warm wood and soft light of traditional Japanese aesthetics with light, modern touches. The clean lines and bamboo screens of the cavernous lobby make for a dramatic entry into the inn. There are five excellent baths in Fujiya, plus a few rooms with private baths, all as chic and soothing as the rest of the hotel.