This Homestay Could Help Save Rajasthan’s Nomadic Camel Pastoralists

A Raika shepherd searches for a lost lamb on the fringes of the Thar Desert
A Raika shepherd searches for a lost lamb on the fringes of the Thar Desert | © David Abram
David Abram

Raika pastoralists in southern Rajasthan are facing serious challenges to their traditional way of life. A homestay scheme set up by a local NGO offers a chance to learn about the problems faced by India’s nomadic camel herders, and a potentially transformative new source of income.

You tend to hear Raika herders well before you see them. First, the tinkling of copper neckbells as the flock approaches. Then, perhaps, the crash of a sling-shot stone through the scrub, or the distinctive, rasping call a shepherd makes when he wants his ewes to slow down. Finally, from behind a curtain of sun-bleached grass and swirling dust will emerge two or three crimson-coloured turbans, framing weathered faces.

speech icon man in bubble

Destinations Unlocked:

Let our travel expert Stefano help you find your perfect Culture trip

Looking for an expert's perspective?

Uncover my top 3 recommended places from each continent on the map.
speech icon man in bubble
left arrow trip map

CentralAmerica

GORGEOUS GUATEMALA

Gorgeous Guatemala

5 days . Mini
speech icon man in bubble

1. Guatemala

An express adventure for those with limited time off. Prepare yourself incredible experiences. You will hike a volcano, visit mayan temples and witness a ceremony and take in beautiful colonial Antigua.

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

CentralAmerica

BEACHY BELIZE

Beachy Belize

5 days . Mini
speech icon man in bubble

2. Belize

A quick trip not too far away for those seeking a relaxing mini break. You will have plenty of free time to relax but also some awesome activities to experience the rainforest and the caribbean sea.
left arrow previous slide

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

CentralAmerica

COLONIAL MEXICO

Colonial Mexico

5 days . Mini
speech icon man in bubble

3. Mexico

An exciting mini trip exploring the lesser known colonial towns of central Mexico. This is hte perfect trip for someone with limited time off and still wants to turn on explorer mode and do something different.
left arrow previous slide

Back to Map

left arrow trip map

SouthAmerica

ADVENTUROUS ECUADOR

Adventurous Ecuador

8 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

1. Ecuador

A remarkable 8 days adventure through the Andes and the Amazon rainforest. The best choice for adventure seekers wishing to visit the 2 most iconic areas of South America, in only 1 week and no flights.

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

SouthAmerica

ANCIENT PERU

Ancient Peru

9 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

2. Peru

An alternative itinerary to classic Peru, from Cusco to Arequipa. This itinerary is great combination of highlights Cusco and Machu Picchu with the lesser known Arequipa and Colca Canyon.
left arrow previous slide

Back to Map

left arrow trip map

Europe

SEDUCTIVE SOUTHERN ITALY

Seductive Southern Italy

10 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

1. Italy

The ultimate Italian experience from the vibrant streets of Naples to the breathtaking sceneries of the Amalfi Coast followed by Matera and down to Puglia with its golden beaches, intense flavours and fascinating destinations.

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Europe

EDINBURGH AND THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS BY TRAIN

Edinburgh And The Scottish Highlands By Train

7 days . Culture
speech icon man in bubble

2. Scotland

Embark on this great adventure starting from London all the way to Scotland with a true Scottish experience made of breathtaking sceneries, whisky tasting and ..lots of fun! Ideal for train lovers and explorers.
left arrow previous slide

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Europe

COMPLETE PORTUGAL BY TRAIN

Complete Portugal By Train

8 days . Culture
speech icon man in bubble

3. Portugal

A wonderful train journey around Portugal, from the romantic city of Porto to the Douro Valley, to the beautiful Aveiro all the way to Lisbon and Sintra. The perfect trip to train, culinary and culture lovers.
left arrow previous slide

Back to Map

left arrow trip map

Asia

SOULFUL SOUTH KOREA

Soulful South Korea

10 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

1. South Korea

Discover incredible temples, mountains and modern cities on this 10 day adventure. This trip is perfect for those seeking immersion in the cuisine, culture and natural wonders of South Korea.

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Asia

THAILAND, CAMBODIA & VIETNAM

Thailand, Cambodia & Vietnam

11 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

2. Thailand

From Bankgok to Angkor Wat to Ho Chi Minh City and everything in between - adventure through the heart of South-East Asia. Taste the delights, see history brought to life and unwind on a Mekong River cruise.
left arrow previous slide

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Asia

SECRETS OF SRI LANKA BY TRAIN

Secrets Of Sri Lanka By Train

10 days . Culture
speech icon man in bubble

3. Sri Lanka

A fantastic adventure that showcases Sri Lanka's fantastic landscapes, wildlife and flavours. With 3 epic rail journeys, 3 UNESCO heritage sites and time to relax, this trip has loads to offer at a great price
left arrow previous slide

Back to Map

left arrow trip map

Africa

EPIC MOROCCO

Epic Morocco

11 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

1. Morocco

An epic journey across Morocco: from Casablanca to Marrakech, through the blue city of Chefchaouen to the wonders of the desert and deep to the High Atlas Mountains - this trip has it all! Ideal for true explorers!

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Africa

ULTIMATE EGYPT

Ultimate Egypt

9 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

2. Egypt

From Cairo to Aswan, this trip brings the land of the pharaohs to life. You'll visit the Pyramids, Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple and cruise down the Nile in style. This is the perfect way to explore Egypt.
left arrow previous slide

Next

right arrow next slide
left arrow trip map

Africa

IMMERSIVE KENYA

Immersive Kenya

8 days . Epic
speech icon man in bubble

3. Kenya

An immersive blend of culture and wildlife for first time travelers to Africa. Learn about Nairobi, sample local coffee in the Aberdares and finish up with a fantastic safari stay in the Masai Mara.
left arrow previous slide

Back to Map

Three Raika shepherds, all in their mid-forties, have paused for a puff under an acacia tree. Leaning on cane lathis (sticks), they cup their hands over their beedi cigarettes, periodically emitting plumes of smoke that catch shafts of sunlight streaming through the branches above them.

Raika shepherds no longer have access to their traditional grazing lands
Left: Collecting fodder for the camels / Right: Raika shepherd pauses for a smoke before bedding down for the night

As well as their trademark red pagris (turbans), the men are also wearing traditional Raika tunics of white cotton with old-style dhotis (sarongs) and upturned, pointed leather slippers. The senior member of the trio, Ram Prasad, casts an eye over his flock grazing contentedly nearby.

“In my father’s time, they camped with sixty or seventy camels in this place, sometimes more. Now, we have only two,” he says, pointing to the pair of hobbled females at the edge of the clearing.

“There’s no money in this way of life. My sons and their wives have all left for Delhi. Only oldies like us still sleep out,” he explains, expectorating a jet of tabacco spit into the sand at his feet.

Passing the pipe: chillums are the traditional way Raika men consume tobacco

Fifteen or more years ago, the Raika – or ‘Rabari’ (literally ‘Outsiders’) as they’re sometimes called – were a common sight across northwest India. Leading a semi-nomadic existence divided between village and traditional transhumant routes, they would often be encountered on the fringes of the Thar Desert in Rajasthan and Gujarat, plodding along the backroads in family groups, the women riding ahead, swaying atop huge camels with vibrantly painted charpoi (string beds), cradles, pots and pans lashed to their saddles, an infant often at their breast, and husbands following behind on foot with the sheep and goats.

Young Raika women traditionally wear bone arm hoops

Now such scenes are a rarity, unusual enough to cause city types to stop their cars and whip out their cell phones for a photo: old meets new India. But in recent decades, the bottom has fallen out of the Raika’s world.

The problem with camels

Ram Prasad waves his staff in the direction of a long, barbed-wire fence stretching to the south for as far as the eye can see.

“You see that fence?” He spits again. “Before, the farmers here were happy to see us. Our herds fertilized their fields in the dry season and helped their crops grow when the rains came. Now they grow cotton using chemicals, and they get angry if our animals eat their plants. So they put up these fences, which block our paths for miles in every direction. It’s impossible to follow the old routes. We move in decreasing circles.”

But there are other reasons for the decline. When the subject of ‘market prices’ comes up, Ram-ji’s cousin, Jagdish, mutters under his breath in thick, Raika dialect, and all three men stare away in opposite directions, shifting uneasily on their feet. No one in this predominantly Hindu, vegetarian part of India likes to talk about it, but until a few years ago unwanted camels used to be sold for slaughter to wholesalers working out of the Gulf states. Then, in 2015, the right-wing, pro-Hindu government of Rajasthan announced a blanket ban on sales of all camel meat.

Ganga Ram out with the camels

Overnight, livestock prices plummeted. Camel fairs such as the one in Pushkar, where several thousand animals used to change hands over the course of a week, now only attract a few hundred animals, at best.

The result has been an exodus of young Raika to the cities where, instead of following their elders with the herds, they now swell the burgeoning ranks of the capital’s impoverished, slum-dwelling day labourers scraping a living on construction sites.

White gold

There is, however, a glimmer of hope. At the foot of the Aravalli mountains in southern Rajasthan, a new dairy has been set up to which Raika villagers can bring their camel milk. Using state-of-the-art equipment, it’s pasteurized, bottled and transported from the facility in refrigerated lorries for sale in the affluent suburbs of the capital, a day’s drive north.

The scheme was the brainchild of a German-born vet, Ilse Köhler Rollefson, who came to the area 25 years ago to study the socio-economics of camel herding, and never left.

German-born vet, Ilse Köhler Rollefson drinks camel milk, which is packed with nutrients
A camel is milked at Sadri

“I loved it here from the start,” Ilse explains, seated on the verandah of her small farmhouse, deep in the bush. “The landscape is so beautiful, and the way of life wonderful to be around. But I could also see local people had problems. There’s no grazing any more, or veterinary care. And no viable source of income. Camel milk has become the only means local families can earn money.”

She pauses, placing a newly filled bottle on the table. “Thankfully, people in the city love this milk – and not only because it tastes good. Camel milk is also extremely nutritious. The herds graze on wild plants and medicinal herbs, so it is full of vitamins. And very low in fat.”

Meeting the Raika

To help publicise the scheme and raise funds for the NGO that supports it, Ilse has created guest accommodation where visitors can stay in comfort while experiencing at close quarters how the Raika live.

Left: Opium tea is a traditional tipple among older Raika men, most of whom suffer arthritis from years of walking across the desert / Right: Raika elder in traditional red pagri and neck band

The day begins with a visit to a plot outside a typical herding village, where around twenty animals stand motionless in the early morning sunshine, waiting their turn to be milked.

“It’s a unique thing being here, you know,” Ilse says, as a female camel cranes its neck forward to nuzzle her. “People may have ridden on camels in Jaisalmer, but it’s very different being in the middle a milk herd. These females are so peaceful, and gentle and curious.”

A newborn stumbles around while its red-turbanned owner, Ganga Ram, talks on his mobile arranging the day’s collection. His 14-year-old son, Rakesh, is hard at work, squirting jets of white milk from the teat of the calf’s mother into a shiny, stainless-steel pot. The noise is delightful.

Camel calf drinks from its mother as a Raika herder milks
Ganga Ram arranges the daily milk collection

Rakesh offers Ilse a green-leaf cup and sloshes a sample into it for her to taste, then takes a mouthful himself.

“It’s so delicious and good for you,” affirms Ilse. “But most importantly, camel milk is a lifeline for the Raika. The nomadic system in this part of the world is the most efficient and sustainable means of producing food ever devised. In a generation, the soil here will be ruined by cotton production, and if we do nothing to keep the young people in the villages, this culture, which has existed for hundreds or thousands of years, will be gone forever. The knowledge will be lost.”

Later, Ilse joins Ganga Ram’s family in their compound, sharing tea with the elders as their sons clip sheep on the mud floor using old-fashioned iron shears. A veiled matriarch looks on from the kitchen, shading her eyes from the morning sun, which glints occasionally on her nose ring.

Sheering the sheep in a Raika family compound

“And how else,” Ilse says, surveying the scene with a faint smile on her face, “can visitors experience anything like this?”

Fact file

Lokhit Pashu-Palak Sansthan (‘LPPS’ for short) offers overnight stays at their centre in Sadri District, between Jodhpur and Udaipur, as part of the ‘Day with the Raika’ programme. Guests visit local villages, watch milking sessions and accompany herders into the bush – a genuinely interactive, memorable way to learn about transhumant life and the threats posed to it by recent changes in Indian agriculture and law. More information about their work is available online. All-inclusive stays at the centre in Sadri may be included in trips arranged by TransIndus in the UK, who have posted a video on the experience here.

culture trip left arrow
 culture trip brand logo

Volcanic Iceland Epic Trip

meet our Local Insider

Hanna

women sitting on iceberg

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A GUIDE?

2 years.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR JOB?

It's the personal contact, the personal experiences. I love meeting people from all over the world... I really like getting to know everyone and feeling like I'm traveling with a group of friends.

WHAT DESTINATION IS ON YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET-LIST?

I have so many places on my list, but I would really lobe to go to Africa. I consider myself an “adventure girl” and Africa feels like the ULTIMATE adventure!

culture trip logo letter c
group posing for picture on iceberg
group posing for picture on iceberg

Every CULTURE TRIP Small-group adventure is led by a Local Insider just like Hanna.

map of volcanic iceland trip destination points
culture trip brand logo
culture trip right arrow
landscape with balloons floating in the air

KEEN TO EXPLORE THE WORLD?

Connect with like-minded people on our premium trips curated by local insiders and with care for the world

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.

X

Holiday Sale Offers on Our Trips

Incredible Savings

Edit article