Chinatown, Kolkata: The Disintegration Of An Ethnic Enclave

Chinatown, situated in East Kolkata, is India’s only Chinatown. The first wave of immigration was of the Hakka Chinese in late 18th century, who came to work on a sugar plantation. Mao Zedong’s communist regime and the First World War amongst other events were responsible for continued immigration in the early 1900s. Chinese people have lived in India for almost 230 years and became engaged in manufacturing activities, mainly in tanneries, producing leather goods. They eventually settled in a locality called Tangra.

A 77-year-old resident and owner of a Chinese restaurant, Philip, has seen how the Chinese people have come and gone over the years. His own son is now settled in Taiwan. He says, “Life is better outside. We sell our properties and pursue bigger dreams.”

As the journey of these immigrants continue, what is the relevance of roots and significance of place of origin in their hearts? They make efforts to preserve their culture through the Chinese New Year Festival, which is celebrated in February, or the circulation of a Chinese newspaper every morning.

When probed about whether they think about returning to China, they speak about China’s progress with a nuanced sense of pride. “China is No.1 in the world,” says Peter, who works at Chinatown’s popular Beijing restaurant. “But we can’t go back now. We are Indian citizens. We vote here; we do business here.”

Perhaps the fluency with which they converse in Bengali or the local school teaching Chinese merely over tuitions is an accurate reflection of the degree of “Indian-ness” that has pervaded their society.

Even though the heyday of Tangra seems to be in the past, it is still legendary for its authentic Indo-Chinese cuisine. Over the years, disappearing tanneries have metamorphosed into restaurants. Today, Indian-Chinese fare is all-pervasive and can be found in different parts of the world.

The departure of Chinatown from its glorious past marks the loss of a place truly integral to India. You may want to head there soon; it might not be around for too long.