The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Cocora Valley

There are several different routes you can take when hiking the Cocora Valley. If you’re not particularly fit, or low on time, then take the road to the left at the start of the trailhead. This will lead you to the main valley full of the iconic Wax Palms – which can measure up to 60m in height – in about half an hour.

However, assuming you’re reasonably fit and healthy and want to enjoy a real hike, then you’ll want to take the classic five-hour Cocora Valley route – you can do this either clockwise, or counterclockwise. The clockwise version is marginally easier, with fewer uphill sections, but you start off with the Wax Palm Valley. The counter-clockwise hike is certainly harder, but you get to enjoy the amazing sensation of finally arriving in the stunning and surreal valley at the end of your hike. For this reason, the counter-clockwise option is recommended.

To take this route, simply turn right down the hill at the trailhead. You will then follow a clearly marked trail through farmland (bring boots, it can get incredibly muddy after rain) before you arrive at the entrance to the forest after about 45 minutes. The hike then meanders through the jungle for about another hour, crossing multiple rickety suspension bridges over the river. Keep your eyes peeled for beautiful birds in this section.

You will then arrive at a little T-junction of muddy trails in the forest. If you turn right – which you really should – you will be taking a side trail up the hill to a little farm called Acaime, where hummingbirds come to multiple feeders and you can enjoy lovely views along with a drink and snack. If you’re not interested in more hiking, then take the trail uphill to the left at the junction.

This is the hardest part coming up: you will slog uphill for about an hour from here, so take your time. When you finally reach the end of this section, you will arrive at a small house called Finca La Montaña with a great view back down the valley. Here you can buy water – or even a beer if you want to celebrate the end of the uphills – before heading along the gently sloping downhill path to the left through pine forests. This path should take a leisurely hour and a half at most (make sure to follow the little side trails to the left every now and again – they lead to viewpoints with stunning panoramas over the valley).

You will then finally arrive at the valley of the Wax Palms, the main draw of any trip to Cocora. Spend some time wandering among these magical giants, before strolling back down the valley – you will arrive back at the trailhead after about half an hour, ready to take a jeep back to Salento for a well-deserved break.

Be sure to pack smartly: bring good quality walking boots, a raincoat, various layers of clothing and plenty of water and snacks. It can be good to bring a packed lunch too, in order to maximise your time in the valley so you don’t have to rush back for lunch. Above all, just remember to enjoy it: hiking Cocora Valley is an essential part of any trip to Colombia!

Here are some top tips for hiking the Cocora Valley from our writer Jessica Vincent, who tackled it all herself.

Cocora Valley is notorious for its unpredictable weather. One moment it can be scorching hot, and the next you’re in complete cloud cover and in need of a poncho. Prepare for both scenarios by layering up and, even if it’s sunny when you leave Salento, always pack a rain jacket.

In Salento, there are no taxis or buses. Instead, there are Willys: WWII jeeps with a modified backseat capable of fitting up to 15 people: 8 people seated in the back, 2 + a driver in the front, and 5 people standing on the outside of the car! Willys leave every hour from Salento’s main plaza from around 5.30am. To get the Cocora Valley practically by yourself, catch the 7.30am jeep at the latest, where you’ll be sharing your ride with the local workers.

Holding on for dear life on the back of a speeding jeep sounds crazy, but this is the best seat in the house! During the 30-minute ride up you’ll get epic views of the surrounding fields and, best of all, you’ll be the first person to spot the approaching 60m-tall (197 ft) wax palms.

You’ll see some hikers going straight past this entrance (sometimes by accident!) and continuing straight along a paved road. This will lead them on the clockwise trail. However, the anti-clockwise trail – starting with an easy, open field walk and finishing with the impressive wax palm field – is definitely the most epic route. For the anti-clockwise trail, go through the bright blue entrance on the right-hand side (with the big welcome sign).

For the first half of your hike, you’ll be walking through relatively flat, open fields. This section is known for regular sightings of the largest flying bird in the world, the Andean Condor. With a wingspan of up to 3.3m (10.8ft), if there’s one up there, you won’t miss it!

After about 40 minutes-1 hour of hiking, you’ll come to a fork in the trail. You’ll see a wooden sign that reads “Acaime La Casa de Los Colibris” (The Hummingbird House) with a big red arrow pointing right. Take this for about 1km (.62miles), and you’ll be met by a friendly family serving a traditional Colombian drink to hikers: hot chocolate with cheese. Not only this, the whole house is dotted with bird feeders, meaning you’ll be drinking your mid-morning drink surrounded by beautiful hummingbirds. Entrance fee is only 5,000 COP ($1.70), and includes your drink.

After all that hiking, a hearty lunch will be in order. This area is famous for its fresh trout dishes prepared with a delicious creamy herb sauce. If you take the anti-clockwise hiking route (turning right through the blue gate), you’ll finish your day’s trek at a cluster of trout farms serving up the catch of the day with a side of rice, chips and salad.

Cocora Valley sits just over 11km (6.85m) outside of Salento, so, unless you fancy adding an extra 2-3 hours of walking to the end of your trek, make sure you’re back at the drop off car park before 6pm, as there are no other public transportation options to Salento after this time. If you leave by 7.30am, you’ll make this no problem.