A Solo Traveller's Guide to Istanbul, Türkiye

Despite any preconceptions you may have derived from the news, Istanbul is as welcoming and safe as any big city for visitors. It’s vast and frenetic, affordable and utterly absorbing. Ultimately, an ingrained tradition of hospitality shines through – solo travellers needn’t feel alone.

Since it’s so big – easily larger than London – you need a long weekend or more to do the city total justice. Exploring the major sights of Sultanahmet could take you three days alone. Then there are the shores of the Bosphorus to enjoy on a ferry cruise and the bars and cafes of Beyoglu, the historic European area, for idling away evenings. Elsewhere, Kadιköy and Üsküdar are among the numerous atmospheric neighbourhoods on the Asian side of Istanbul that are ready to explore.

For more ideas, check out our list of top places to stay in Istanbul.

Part modern metropolis and part ancient city – a former Greek, Roman and Ottoman capital – Istanbul has plenty to appeal to all kinds of travellers. But there are certain highlights that you absolutely must fit in.

Visit the palace when you join Culture Trip’s 12-day small-group adventure From Istanbul to Antalya: the Ultimate Turkey Itinerary.

From the humblest workers restaurants doing karides güveç (cheesy prawn casserole) to fashionable rooftop spots with spectacular city views, Istanbul is a feast for visitors. Given its location beside the waters of the Bosphorus and close to the Black Sea, fish restaurants are everywhere. Sitting out on a summer terrace in the waterside quarters of Arnavutköy, Üsküdar or Kuzguncuk while eating grilled levrek (sea bass) or kalkan (turbot) is a favoured pastime – particularly with a squeeze of lemon juice and a glass of potent aniseed-flavoured rakı, which turns milky when water is added. Expect, too, grillhouses doing meatballs (köfte) and döner kebab. And look out for esnaf lokantasι (tradesman restaurants), which do delicious lentil soup and imam bayιldι (‘the priest fainted’): fried aubergine packed with onions, garlic and tangy tomato. For more on eating and drinking in Istanbul, read our restaurant selections.

You’d be hard-pushed to find a more hospitable, friendly nation than Turkey. Kindness is in its DNA. In Istanbul, just take the usual precautions you would in any city: use busy, well-lit streets at night, don’t accept drinks from strangers and avoid political discussions.

The city is vast and sprawling, with a one-line tram service that’s handy for visits to the Blue Mosque, Topkapι Palace and the Hagia Sophia (it stops more or less outside). It’s also a novelty to ride the historic 19th-century Tünel tube line from near the Golden Horn creek up to the bar- and restaurant-lined Beyoglu district. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, as you might expect. And the best transport of all? The ferries that pinball back and forth between the Asian and European shores – sitting on deck with a glass of tea is simply heavenly.

Istanbul is a modern, international city, but age-old Muslim customs are observed – if you’re visiting during the holy period of Ramadan, be respectful of people observing the tradition and don’t eat or drink in public. Also don’t try to visit mosques during prayer times if you’re non-Muslim, as entry will not be permitted.