Great things come in small packages, and never was a truer word spoken than when it comes to Malmö. Although quaint in size, the Swedish city is home to an array of restaurants, with many serving sustainably focussed dishes featuring only the best local ingredients.
Malmö’s proximity to Copenhagen (the Øresund Bridge joins the two) explains the influence the Danish capital’s New Nordic sustainable movement has had on so many of the city’s newer restaurants. Keeping things local, seasonal and true to Skåne, Malmö restaurateurs are producing traditional Swedish fare with unexpected modern twists.
Located in the diverse neighbourhood of Möllevången, Lyran works with a host of local businesses, from farmers and fishers to cheesemakers, to create its exceptional menu. The success of these dishes lies in their simplicity, as they revolve around a single ingredient – such as finger limes or truffles from Umbria. At Lyran, education is the key to sustainability, learning from the purveyors it works with and teaching its staff about them and their products. The restaurant offers three eight-course menu options that cater to vegetarian, pescatarian and carnivorous diets. Diners with vegan or allergy requirements need to give 24 hours notice.
Situated in the middle of Folkets Park, Far i Hatten is an organic café-restaurant that often procures ingredients grown on its 1890s structure’s grass-covered roof. At this community-embracing spot, there are options for all budgets; stop by for a full tasting menu, a weekend vegetarian brunch or a wood-fired pizza (available only on Sundays) to take away and enjoy in the sun somewhere in the park. Stick around long enough and watch the old pavilion become a dance hall, with DJ sets, concerts and events happening every weekend.
The Raw Kitchen Malmö serves raw vegan dishes, which includes a six-course tasting menu of its best recipes, plus a selection of flavourful raw cakes. Everything is free from gluten and processed sugar and made using organic nuts, seeds, fruits, vegetables and berries. Its dairy-free ‘cheezes’ are so popular that chef-owner Simon Francis went so far as to open the Cashuery, his ‘cheeze’ factory. This restaurant is incredibly popular with Malmö’s residents, meaning it can be tough to find seating at peak times. Stop by for lunch or dinner and, if weather permits, a seat outside in the sun.
A traditional Skåne restaurant, Mrs Brown serves seasonal and organic ingredients procured from local sources and adopts a nose-to-tail approach, meaning it uses all parts of the animal. The Scandinavian-style menu features classics such as pork belly confit from Vellinge and bleak roe with crème fraiche on butter-fried toast. Three courses cost on average 400 kronor (£32), but a smaller lunch menu for around 200 kronor (£16) is also available.
For an exceptional gastronomical experience, visit Bloom in the Park, situated in the scenic Pildammsparken. The restaurant has no menu so that it can use the freshest ingredients available on any given day. Creating unique dishes with international influences, the chefs like to play with flavours, making sure they work together but don’t overpower each other. Bloom in the Park offers a variety of tasting menus, starting from 495 kronor (£39), plus an afternoon tea for 295 kronor (£23).
Launched by Erik Andersson (former head chef of Michelin-star Daniel Berlin) and Ellinor Lindblom, SPILL, which means waste, is only open for lunch. As he only uses those ingredients that would otherwise be thrown away, Andersson creates a new menu almost every day, allowing his creativity to shine. And while the chef often makes Swedish dishes, he also likes to cook international recipes. SPILL is a unique experience, one that stays with diners long after the last bite.
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