Seville’s cafe and restaurant scene has diversified considerably over the past few years, so there’s plenty of choice if you’re heading out to eat. Local guide Hayley Salvo reveals her top tips on where to start the day in the Andalusian capital.
Hayley Salvo is a tapas expert at Devour Seville, an award-winning tour operator specialising in gourmet guides of the Andalusian capital. Based in Spain since 2007 and Seville since 2013, Hayley describes herself as “a true Tejandaluza: half American from Texas and half Spanish, with the passport to prove it”. Adopting Seville as her hometown, in the past decade she has seen “a huge gastro-tapas movement” take place. “Bars and restaurants are taking traditional dishes and recipes and making them more gourmet or fusion by merging them with dishes from other countries,” she explains. Here she explores the places to go for classic Spanish breakfast.
From traditional tapas joints to hip bars, Seville has a diverse cafe and restaurant scene to suit every taste and budget
This traditional tapas joint, just behind Seville’s famous “mushroom” monument, Las Setas, is, according to Hayley, the best place for tostada. This classic Spanish breakfast comprises toasted bread topped with freshly grated tomato, olive oil and salt, with thick slices of jamón (optional). Another popular option is potato tortilla, which they serve here on toast. Why not enjoy yours on Santa Marta’s spacious terrace?
This centrally located bodega serves quality pringá, a hearty dish of slow-cooked beef or pork, black pudding (morcilla) and chorizo that’s typically prepared as part of a stew, or cocido. With a rustic interior of dark wood and traditional Sevillano tiles, Picadero offers the perfect setting in which to enjoy this Andalusian classic, usually served in a montadito, or small sandwich. Tostadas with a variety of toppings are also available.
Seville’s other churro hotspot is La Centuria, a tapas bar on Plaza de la Encarnación, under the shadow of the Metropol Parasol, the square’s giant “wooden mushroom” sculpture designed by Jürgen Mayer. Place your order at the bar, then take a seat on the terrace and indulge in a spot of people-watching as the city wakes up. Tostadas and montaditos are also available and, if you’re stopping by later in the day, there’s a good selection of homemade tapas on offer too. Make sure you have cash on you, as Centuria doesn’t accept card payments.
Hayley describes La Cacharrería as a “tiny, hip bar that’s very popular with locals”. Close to Las Setas in the tourist centre, it’s a good choice for breakfast or brunch. They serve delicious homemade bread (pan de la casa) and a more creative variety of toppings than you might usually find in Seville. Hayley’s favourite is a tostada served with goat’s cheese and a selection of seasonal marmalades. Bear in mind that this bar only takes payment in cash, or efectivo.
Otto Cafe offers a mix of traditional and more modern and international dishes for breakfast or brunch. “Menu options are easy,” Hayley says. “Choose your bread and toppings, add coffee and/or fresh orange juice; or branch out for fruit, yoghurt, bagels and eggs. I usually go for a mollete bread with hummus and turkey, just to keep things healthy and interesting.” Otto is in the heart of the Feria barrio and offers seating in a contemporary, light-filled interior or in the tranquil square out front.
If you’re after a boozy brunch, try Bier Kraft, a slick cerveza specialist just off Calle Feria. Options include mimosas, and to go with your cocktails choose from international dishes such as eggs Benedict with salmon or bacon, or fried chicken waffles with maple syrup. If you’re staying on after eating, there are more than 20 artisanal beers from around the globe to enjoy as the day passes by in front of you.
Whether it’s a quick-fix or a leisurely sit-down meal, Seville has plenty of outdoor breakfast and brunch spots on offer
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