Trondheim in Norway is earning a reputation as a top gastronomic destination, due to its culture of serving predominantly locally sourced ingredients with inventive contemporary twists. Renowned Norwegian food blogger Anders Husa shares his guide to the best places to eat in Trondheim.
From traditional and fusion restaurants, to those boasting a Michelin star, there are a growing number of innovative eateries offering something new to Trondheim’s gastronomic scene. Scandinavian food blogger, Anders Husa, is the go-to person for advice on where to begin your culinary journey through Norway’s third largest city.
Located by the harbour and overlooking the Trondheim Fjord is Kraft Bodega, a relatively new restaurant run by chef Thomas Borgan. Diners can enjoy internationally inspired dishes à la carte in a relaxed atmosphere, or order the tasting menu to sample a variety of inventive dishes. “Playful dishes include a twist on the classic Norwegian dish of mackerel served in a tomato sauce,” says Anders; this fishy dish is a popular sandwich filling for many Scandinavians. “Despite using local produce, a lot of the dishes are internationally inspired, like the scallop dish in a Thai som tam sauce, mango and peanuts,” he says. Kraft Bodega is also well-known for serving and presenting food in a humorous and quirky way; for example, they have a potato dish that is served in miniature shopping carts.
Bula Neobistro draws inspiration from international cuisines, with both American-style junk food and classic Scandinavian dishes leading the menu. “Chef Reneé Fagerhøi, who happens to be the wife of Thomas Borgan at Kraft Bodega, created a menu with all the food she loved as a child,” Anders says. Reneé grew up on a farm where traditional, ecological ingredients were at the centre, and an American-style cheeseburger was something unattainable. Be sure to order the gas station hot dog, which the food blogger describes as “a refined version of the classic with homemade toppings”.
Set inside the historic Trøndelag theatre, in a room previously used as a stage, you’ll find Teaterbistro. Don’t be fooled by the white tablecloths and red velvet curtains, this isn’t a formal and old-fashioned eatery. Of its own admission, it offers “unpretentious and authentic” food from local suppliers. With an ever-changing menu, you never know what you’re going to get, but expect innovative and well-balanced dishes. Anders is a fan of their “New Nordic tasting menu” which is heavily based on local, natural and seasonal produce: “The signature dishes of head chefs Mette Beate Evensen and Martin Hovdal include a pancake topped with beef tartare, and a potato bread made from a sourdough.”
According to Anders, Spontan is “the best (and only) natural wine bar in town, and serves some of the best food in Trondheim.” This casual restaurant is celebrated for its use of high-quality ingredients and friendly atmosphere. The restaurant is spread over two floors and decorated using minimalist furniture, striking modern art and gastronomy books. No main dishes are served, so expect snacks, small and medium-sized dishes, cheeses and sweets to share. Come with a group and order a selection for the table from the rotating menu, paired with biodynamic or environmentally friendly wines from all over the world. Anders recommends ordering the lollipop of langoustine with a tarragon emulsion, crispy buckwheat and langoustine glaze – it’s the chef Fredrik Engen’s signature dish, and a staple of the menu.
Fagn, an intimate, Nordic-inspired ground-floor restaurant, was the first in Trondheim to receive a Michelin star, in February 2019. Its 10- and 20-course tasting menus evolve with the changing seasons, and are expertly executed. “Chef Jonas Nåvik had worked at some of the best three-Michelin-star restaurants in the world before he returned to his home town of Trondheim and opened a place of his own,” says Anders. The chef’s speciality snack of duck liver and burnt leek is one of the food blogger’s favourites, as well as the refreshing cucumber and yogurt palate cleanser.
Speilsalen, otherwise known as The Hall of Mirrors, occupies a grand dining room in Britannia Hotel – one of Trondheim’s most historic places to stay. The hotel first opened in 1870, and has hosted everyone from international royalty to British aristocracy. For generations, Speilsalen has been a place for fine dining and intellectual conversation. However, it’s now reached new heights after an expansive restoration. “The restaurant recently underwent refurbishment at the cost of 1.5 billion NOK (£113 million),” says Anders. “Chef Christopher Davidsen is a former Bocuse d’Or silver winner, and one of the signature dishes on his elaborate tasting menu is a sourdough waffle topped with a cod remoulade, cucumbers and caviar.” The flagship restaurant, which serves up dishes using hand-selected produce from the surrounding area, was also awarded a Michelin star in February 2020.
A café and bookshop rolled into one, Sellanraa is located in the old fire station, next to Trondheim’s public library. This homely restaurant is known locally for its impeccable use of high-quality and seasonal ingredients. “Chef Fredric Klev has a talent for creating simple dishes, made using only a few ingredients that are exceptionally well-balanced,” says Anders. “Two of the ingredients he loves to experiment with are Nordic root vegetables like celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke.” Co-owner Eirin Klev tells Culture Trip, “At Sellanraa, we invite all guests to the restaurant as if we were inviting them into our own homes.” As well as serving up fresh and healthy food and excellent coffee, the staff are friendly and happy to share recommendations and recipes.
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