Local produce sits at the heart of everything The Lonely Broccoli does | Courtesy of The Lonely Broccoli
At the turn of the 20th century, the district of Schwabing was a draw for Germany’s most notable artists and writers. Today, the leafy streets have retained their vibrancy, and the bohemian neighbourhood is bursting with cute cafés and some of the city’s coolest restaurants.
Since June 2019, Nils Frey has been food and beverage manager at The Lonely Broccoli, located in one of Munich’s hottest hotels in town – the Andaz Schwabinger Tor. Nils has previously worked in London, Berlin and Cologne, and knows a thing or two about what constitutes a great restaurant, so who better to talk to about Schwabing’s foodie hotspots?
The Lonely Broccoli
Courtesy of The Lonely Broccoli
A self-appointed “modern meat house”, The Lonely Broccoli offers vibrant flavourful dishes, with a strong focus on meat. Its butcher’s plate is a must-try, with aged, grilled and roasted meats served with home-made pickles and gravy. Nils is passionate about the restaurant he works for: “The Lonely Broccoli is a fantastic restaurant in a hotel with an unbelievably passionate team. Here, international flair is combined with local products, creating wonderful dishes.” Get here early and head up to the M’Uniqo Bar – Munich’s highest rooftop bar – to enjoy an aperitif and watch the sun go down.
The decor in this French steakhouse is opulent and modern, and it’s a great spot for a celebratory dinner; it serves the best beef tartare in town. It’s one of Nils’s favourites: “La Bohème is one of those restaurants I love to visit – and often recommend. Everything is wonderful, service is exemplary and you feel individually catered to. They’re great neighbours to have!” Head here for the vast breakfast buffet at the weekend – but reserve in advance, as it’s a hugely popular Schwabing location.
With a focus on Austrian cuisine, ÖEINS has two Munich locations. Its Schwabing site is just a short walk from Luitpoldpark, a beautiful green space for a Sunday stroll (and an alternative to the ever-popular and overcrowded English Garden). Staff are friendly, the atmosphere is relaxed, and it serves some of the best schnitzel and Kaiserschmarrn (thick, fluffy pancake pieces served with apple sauce) outside of Austria. “Austrian cuisine is an enduring classic, and there are far too few Austrian restaurants from our neighbouring country in Munich,” Nils says. “ÖEINS is a wonderful exception.”
This gorgeous Bavarian restaurant features bottle-green walls, high ceilings and rustic furniture in an Art Nouveau building, coupled with a delightfully shaded beer garden that’s perfect for a long summer’s evening. Its signature dish is the schnitzel, but its brunches are also great, with a lazy atmosphere and eggs benedict to write home about. Nils is also a fan: “I think it’s a brilliant eatery with fantastic Wiener schnitzel and great service. It’s a must-visit for anyone who loves good schnitzel.” Atypically for a Bavarian restaurant, Kaisergarten also has a fantastic array of wines, if beer isn’t your thing.
This Peruvian restaurant is famed for its authentic ceviche, and Nils is pleased to see that there is more and more international fare to be found in Bavaria. “I discovered ceviche while living and working in London, and I am a huge fan of the dish. I’m thrilled that there’s now Peruvian cuisine in Munich.” Food is stunningly presented on brightly coloured tableware, and staff are friendly. In summer, its pavement tables are the ideal spot for people-watching – it’s close to Schwabing’s bustling Münchner Freiheit, an area packed with bars and restaurants.
Inspired by New York delis, this fashionable café-restaurant is a lively spot for brunch, lunch or dinner. Service can be a little languid, but the food is worth the wait. Nils visits frequently: “It’s a wonderful spot, regardless of the time of day. Soul food is served here – deli style – and the ambience is lovely.” It’s run by the same people that manage Kaisergarten, which is evident in the stylish, minimalist interiors. Try the pastrami sandwiches with coleslaw, but be sure to leave space for the exquisite selection of desserts, which include churros and chocolate cake.
A Munich classic, this Michelin-star restaurant has been open since 1974, and the decor hasn’t changed since (for better or worse). Nils gushes: “Since being in Munich, I’ve only made it to Tantris once. It’s an institution and a magical place. As a guest, you enter a completely different world when inside – and the food and service are both unfathomably good.” Head chef Hans Haas has been at the helm since 1991, but he’s set to retire at the end of 2020, and Tantris is planning on closing for good. Get your reservation in quickly!
Salzrkuste refers to the salt crusts on dishes – and this is mostly what’s on offer here: succulent fish and meat dishes baked in salt. There’s a well-thought-out vegetarian menu available, too, and its dessert cheeseboard is first-class – cheeses are sourced from Schwabing’s Elisabeth Market. “I actually haven’t made it to Salzkruste yet,” laments Nils, “but ever since I’ve been in Munich, everyone keeps recommending it to me! It certainly has a great reputation.”