On a rainy day, you can fall into a world far away in the stacks of Artazart. Photography books from Ryan McGinley to polaroids of Patti Smith, Windows in Paris provides hours of voyeuristic gazing. Friends get lost in Miam Miam making grocery lists, complete with licorice root, pig’s blood, and wild yams. The magazine selection is outrageous; this is no normal pressing — this is where you go to see what the underbelly is digesting. Architecture, graphic design, cooking, gardening, engineering, the coolest guide books, cards, journals, different grains of wood, different tribes, bio-pics, life in Polaroid, contemporary, classic — you name it, and if they don’t have it, the staff is interested enough to hear about it.
Artazart, 83 Quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 40 40 24 00
Du Pain et Des Idées‘ baker Christophe Vasseur set off to become the best in Paris, and in 2008, he was awarded that title by Gault & Millau. His secret can be summed up in a single quote: ‘I’m going to make you bread like you’ve never seen before, and in this bread there will love and friendship, mes amies.’ His offerings are hauntingly delicious — chausson pommes, pain au chocolat et banane, croissants, and the best bread ever, pain des amies (so good Gregory Marchand uses it to house seven stories of pastrami at his renowned Frenchie’s). There is but one community table for perching but nary a cafe to complement your croissant. The canal is a crumb trail away, so enjoy your bread by the slow flowing sea.
Du Pain et Des Idées, 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 42 40 44 52
Julhès is maybe the best delicatessen in the city. Big words backed by big quality, vast selection, and enormous effort. The alcohols alone are worth the trip. They have everything from Tanquerey to Pink Peppercorn gin. There are so many whiskey and bourbon bottles refracting gold that one loses sight. The staff knows their cheese, the prices are fair, and the saucisson selection stretches the down the gang plank, dropping you right into terroirs eau de vie. Start swimming, or tasting. Again, with their extensive knowledge, there is always someone on hand to guide you through the experience, so let no wine go untasted or drop wasted.
If you don’t fancy cheese, charcuterie or vin (what are you doing in France??), then two doors down you can find hand rolled raviolis, fish, and a small selection of Greek and Spanish wines. Their boulangerie, juste a côté, has dessert covered, and if you’re hungry from looking at everything, Julhès just opened their very first café.
Julhès, 60 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris, France, +33 9 51 03 48 58
For the realist and the artist, Les Douches, previously a public bath house, now washes its walls with visions of the past and the present. With photographic exhibitions from Vivian Maier to Ernest Hass, the quality of work maintains a ‘documentarian’s style’ — true to life, circa Diane Arbus’ Twins. Their choices speak to the art school reject in everyone, which is why they are also a watering hole for Parisian art world activities.
Les Douches, 5 Rue Legouvé, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 78 94 03 00
Take a trip around the world in 80 days, and go to Marché Saint Quentin. Reflecting the demographics of its neighbors, there are fruits from Spain, nuts from Brazil, aubergines from Greece, spicy Italian sausages, and Lebanese flat breads — peel a Corsican clementine as your peruse the wares. Get lunch from Marrakech Traiteur. Grab some cheese and a seat under the cover of its skylights, which have seen many a day, and a well-traveled tray. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Marché Saint Quentin, 85 Bis Boulevard de Magenta, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 48 85 93 30
Just past métro Chateau d’Eau, covered, eclectic, and only second generation, you’ll find Marché Saint Martin. It has everything you need, plus young people, a beautiful bio (organic) selection, cool conceptual restaurants, and a burger-break house while you are on the beat. Au Comptoir de Brice alone earns the marché a pop and squat. Brice Morvent brought his Top Chef hat to these halls, along with a lot of foot traffic, but he still gets schooled by the older and wiser Tante Emma and her authentic German specialties. Closed Mondays.
Marché Saint Martin, 33 Rue du Château d’Eau, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 48 85 93 30
Passage Brady is the ancient arcade. If Indiana Jones had a hangout, this would be it — authentic at its least, intoxicating at its most. The sensory pleasure of curry, cumin, and cream wafting down the hallways while you pass tray after silver tray of perfumed basmati rice, people crunching pockets of naan stuffed with mango chutney, the feel of almond oil, embroidery… the suggestion that your eyebrows look great after threading, but what about your moustache, lady?
L’Atelier de Pablo has a cult following, an impeccable eye like Sauron’s. This concept store is part brocante, part immeuble, part fashion, part childlike empress and enthusiasm. It is stuffed full of fun, from jewelry and children’s books to laptop covers and chaises longues. The art and the candle selection make gift-giving very easy. Everything is kitschy, so if you love giving a highly personalized present, this is the place!
L’Atelier de Pablo, 34 Rue d’Hauteville, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 47 70 21 29