The Best Things to See and Do in Nice, France

You’ve not really been to Nice unless you’ve taken a stroll along the Promenade des Anglais, the pedestrian walkway that stretches for seven kilometres (4.3mi) along the coast, separating the sea from the city. Built in 1820 at the instigation of a group of British residents, la Prom, as it’s known, has become a favourite place to stroll, cycle or simply watch the world go by. It’s also one of the best places to gather on big public occasions – New Year’s celebrations here are something else.

Matisse wasn’t born in Nice, but he lived here for nearly 40 years, and is buried in the cemetery of the Monastère de Cimiez. The painter and sculptor, who arguably did more than anyone else to revolutionise the visual arts in the first two decades of the 20th century, is celebrated in his adopted hometown by the impressively comprehensive Musée Matisse. Located in the imposing 18th-century Villa des Arènes, the museum hosts an excellent permanent collection of the master’s artworks, as well as rotating exhibitions illuminating different aspects of his life and career.

With onion domes and colourful spires that look like they’ve been lifted straight from Red Square, the Russian Orthodox Cathedral cuts a strange silhouette among the stereotypically French apartment blocks of Nice’s Le Piol neighbourhood. But while it might look slightly out of place, the church actually predates many of the surrounding buildings. It was consecrated in 1912, and dedicated to the memory of Nicholas Alexandrovich, son of Tsar Alexander II, and heir-apparent to the Russian throne until his tragic death. He passed away in 1865, at the age of just 21, in a villa not far from this spot. As the largest Russian Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe, it’s a sight worth seeing, but also testament to the long tradition of Russians spending time on the Riviera, one which continues to this day.

Notre Dame de Nice is the largest, and most spectacular, church in the city. Despite that, it’s not the official cathedral – that title had already been claimed by an older building in the city centre. But if you want to immerse yourself in the splendour of French religious architecture, this is the one to visit. Partly this is explained by Nice’s interesting history; until 1860, the city was actually part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, but was annexed during the Italian Wars of Independence. Nice’s new rulers decided they needed to make the city feel more French, and so commissioned a brand new church in the Gothic style – Notre Dame is the result.

Originally hailing from Belarus, artist Marc Chagall called many cities home over the course of his long and prolific career. But while his artwork can be seen everywhere from MoMA to the Louvre, it’s the Musée Marc Chagall in Nice which arguably best reflects his life and work. Not least because he helped design it, setting out instructions in his will, right down to where he wanted each painting to hang. Chagall lived in St Paul de Vence, just outside the city, from 1948 until his death at the ripe old age of 97. Along with the Musée Matisse, this is a must-visit for anyone who wants to understand European Modernism.

With the novelist Roger Martin du Gard, the painter Raoul Dufy and, of course, Henri Matisse having been laid to rest here, it would be worth making a pilgrimage to the Cimiez monastery for its cemetery alone. But the rest of the site, which has been used by monks since the 9th century (a brief break following the French revolution aside) is well worth a visit. The Franciscan Museum provides you with fantastic insights into monastic life down the centuries, and the stunning 15th-century church features three paintings by the Renaissance master Ludovico Brea.

Right in the middle of Nice, just across the Promenade des Anglais from the Centenary Beach sits a pleasant oasis of green, filled with palm trees and fountains. This is the Jardin Albert 1er, a lovely place to sit and watch the world go by after a long day of sightseeing. Named after the man who was King of Belgium when the First World War broke out, it boasts an open-air concert venue, the Théâtre de Verdure, which has hosted everyone from Edith Piaf to Iron Maiden down the years.

Local Insider Alex Ledsom also has some suggestions for unmissable attractions in Nice

No visit to the south of France would be complete without at least a quick dip. The locals are unlikely to go in the sea except at the height of summer (other times of the year are considered too cold) but if you’re used to swimming in colder water (in England, for example), then the water is wonderful from about March until sometimes as late as November. Find a private beach to hire a lounger in relative comfort with waiter service or choose a more natural (but maybe more crowded) public beach. Don’t forget the suntan lotion.

Socca is the local dish, made of chickpeas and cooked in the same way as crepes. It’s eaten in the same way as a pancake – as a healthier alternative to fast food – rolled up and wrapped in paper. It’s a great way to fill up, while you wander around the town looking for your next meal. Socca booths are all over town, but especially at Nice’s flower market on every day of the week but Monday (before 1.30pm for food).

The south of France has long been known and loved for its grapes. This is rosé wine territory, although the locals might think it a huge “faux pas” to continue drinking it through winter, when most switch to red (or at least white) wine. Head to Coco et Rico to try the local wines (organic available) behind the Promenade des Anglais.

Nothing will make you feel more special than heading up to eat lunch or dinner on the top of one of the hotels along the Promenade des Anglais. Lounge by the pools and then mooch over to your (pre-reserved) table on the balcony, overlooking the thousands of people on the Prom below. If you want to blow the budget, try Le Chantecler, the two-star Michelin restaurant at the kooky Hotel Negresco. Try the 3e restaurant at the Hyatt Regency for a fine dining experience but where the waiters are a little less formal. Or maybe try the poolside lounge restaurant, La Terrasse, at Le Méridien, where you can get a burger cooked to perfection (albeit still not cheap). It’s worth a drink in one of them at least, if not just to get the exclusive sensation of being on top of the world.

Jazz came to the region in the 1920s, brought over by American ex-pats who came to live on the Côte D’Azur, to write or paint or party. Many of them, like F Scott Fitzgerald, hired big houses along the coast where they held ostentatious parties and invited famous US jazz bands to play. Nowadays, you can continue the tradition by visiting many local jazz bars and clubs, visiting during the Jazz festival (July) or having lunch at one of the big hotels that used to be a second home to these people who called themselves the “Lost Generation”, such as the Hotel du Cap or the Hotel Belles Rives in nearby Juans-Les-Pins. (Fitzgerald wrote at the Belles Rives and used the Hotel du Cap as inspiration for his books).

Every February, thousands of people descend on Nice for the annual celebration that traditionally comes before lent (when everyone is supposed to eat up all the fattening things in their cupboards before fasting). Join in the festivities, processions, pageants, flower battles and craziness by dressing up (fancy dress isn’t obligatory but it is encouraged).

Founded in the 1st century, the Roman city of Cemenelum was built on the hill overlooking the sea and was home to an amphitheatre and thermal baths. The amphitheatre isn’t as well-preserved as in other French towns – like Nimes or Arles – but is beautiful in its own right.

Open Tuesdays to Sundays, the morning market is home to lots of organic farmers who come to sell their fresh, seasonal – and sometimes organic – produce to a rapturous audience. If you have gardening queries, there are always people on hand to discuss any green-fingered issues you might have. On Mondays, it turns into an antiques market, which is also well worth a look.