In the heart of the vineyards of Burgundy, the capital, Dijon, is a haven for foodies as well as wine lovers. But beyond the culinary delights, you’ll find history galore – from the Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy to the gothic cathedral, built in the 14th century, which marks the centre of this striking French city.
The historical city of Dijon is perfect for those who like to meander on foot. Follow the brass owls to stumble on 18th-century palaces, gothic architecture, thriving marketstalls and delicious gingerbread. Then head into the countryside for a mouthwatering glimpse into the region’s famous wine and mustard-making prowess. Here are the top things to do on your next trip to Dijon.
Palais des Ducs
Museum
The main and most spectacular of all the museums in Dijon, the Musée des Beaux Arts lives in the premises of the Ducal palace, once the seat of the awesome power of the court of Burgundy. The incredibly rich art collection is definitely worth a visit, as are the medieval kitchens that are are open for visits, and the pièce de résistance, the hall of the tombs of the dukes, where the world-famous Mourners sculptures await in their intriguing procession of white marble. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon, Dijon
Museum
Located in the eastern wing of the Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy, this is one of the oldest museums in France. Since opening to the public in 1799, the museum has amassed more than 130,000 works. There are masterpieces spanning ancient times, through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, to the modern day. Entry is completely free, while guided tours are available for a small fee. Open every day except Tuesday, it is also fully accessible to visitors with reduced mobility.
Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne de Dijon
Historical Landmark
Dedicated to the persecuted martyr, Saint Benignus of Dijon, this cathedral is a Gothic marvel that hurtles visitors back to the 13th century, when it was built. The relatively conservative façade gives little hint of the building’s hidden flourishes inside. This includes a snazzy polychrome roof, a marble sculpted doorway – above it sits an imposing 18th-century organ – and teardrop pendant lamps hanging from the ceiling.
Taste Mustard
We couldn’t plan a visit to Dijon without mentioning the ubiquitous condiment. One of the main mustard brands, Maille, has a stunning boutique in a medieval building on the main pedestrian street with hundreds of varieties of traditional and innovative gourmet flavours that you can’t find anywhere else. The ingredient combinations are so mind-blowing that you’ll never look at the humble mustard pot in the same way again.
Follow the owl trail to the Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse
Botanical Garden
Dijon‘s owl trails are the perfect way to navigate around the city on foot, as small brass owls (known as “chouettes” in French) are embedded into the pavements to point the way. Grab a map from the tourist office for exact locations – the serene botanic gardens is one of them. Kids will love the animal sculptures and duck pond, while adults may be interested to learn about the medicinal plants that the gardens specialise in. Here you can also find the Natural History Museum.
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The site where the theatre stands today became available following the demolition of the Saint Chapelle church that was part of the Ducal Palace in the Middle Ages. The building, much in the form it is today, was completed in 1828 as the city’s main opera house and theatre offering a word-class programme of performances. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
This spectacular 17th-century mansion was built in the budding Renaissance style to impress visitors and communicate the importance of its owners. It is a beautiful example of the distinctive patterned tiled-roofs of Dijon, and the elegant and elaborate interior courtyard. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Port du Canal
What used to be a commercial port on the busy Burgundy waterways has now been converted to a leisure marina for leisure boats and touring barges . The surrounding area features a lovely garden and a tree-lined promenade joining the canal with the nearby lake Kir. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Get active at Kir Lake
West of the city centre, a 10-minute drive away, or just under an hour on foot, you’ll find Kir Lake, named after the former mayor of the city who oversaw the artificial lake’s completion in 1964. A stroll around the water’s edge is a fine way to spend an easygoing couple of hours. If you’re looking to up the tempo, you can rent bikes or boats, while there are also exercise stations alongside the kids’ play areas. Alternatively, try out the nine-hole disc golf course, which is a smart and fun use of the green spaces.
Parc de la Colombière
Park
This woodsy park was created in the 16th century by the Great Condé, then powerful Governor of Burgundy, and was designed to the fashion of the time, with a stunning treatment of perspective and a leafy tree-lined promenade that cuts across over 33 hectares of green space. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Well of Moses
The surviving section of the medieval masterpiece by Claus Suter is the platform of the original ‘fountain of life’ that continues to be a revered place of pilgrimage to this day. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Taste the gingerbread from Mulot et Petitjean
Bakery
The delicious gingerbread produced by this family business, founded in 1796, is famed for the methodical way in which it is made. Wheat flour and honey form the dough, which is then left to stand for a minimum of two weeks. It’s at this point that the dough is introduced to egg yolk, baking powder and the blend of spices that infuse it with the same time-honoured taste it would have had more than 200 years ago. Just as impressive are the vintage shops dotted around the city.
Musée Rude
Church, Museum
The Musée Rude is dedicated to the work of the talented artist François Rude and features monumental sculptures and life-size plaster casts, set in the Saint-Étienne church. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
A scenic half-hour drive south of Dijon towards the village of Vosne-Romanée is where you’ll find this prestigious Burgundy vineyard. Sign up for a tour and you’ll be greeted by welcoming sommelier Yoan, who will educate you on the process of winemaking from vine to bottle. He’ll outline the four grape varieties used here, including chardonnay and pinot noir, and – of course – offer you a taste, pouring directly from the 228-litre (50g) barrels.
This is one of a number of streets in Dijon that are rich in history. Walking along the few blocks from Notre Dame to the end of the Rue de la Verrerie you can easily imagine you are out for your daily shopping in medieval times. The narrow street with its impeccable preserved façades is a magical promenade, lined with chic boutiques, art galleries and antique shops. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
It goes without saying that any visitor to Dijon should come away with new insight into the humble mustard seed. The Edmond Fallot shop, on Rue de la Chouette in central Dijon, stocks every mustard product you’ve ever thought about, and plenty that you haven’t. There’s even a mustard bar where you can fill your own jar. For the full experience, head to the workshop in Beaune, which features a museum-style tour and a free tasting.
Don your leathers for the Coupes Moto Légende
Historical Landmark
Bikers assemble! If you’ve ever dreamt of sharing a racetrack with racing legends like Carl Fogarty, Steve Baker, and Giacomo Agostini, then make sure you – and your motorbike – are in Dijon in mid-September. More than 1,300 bikes, vintage and new, are on display alongside 300 exhibitors at the 3.8km (2.4mi) Circuit de Dijon-Prenois. Outside the annual two-day parade, the track can be privately hired throughout the year for personal driving courses.
Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne
Monastery, Museum
This quirky museum is full of interesting detail. Located in the Bernadine Monastery, the exhibits showcase the costumes, household objects and daily routine of life in the Burgundy countryside. The museum also displays a crypt dating back to the 11th century and remains of the gate of the Roman legionnaire’s fortified camp, on which the church was erected. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
The 13th-century church of Notre Dame is a striking example of Gothic architecture, with a one-of-a-kind façade that features dozens of grotesques figures, some quite predictable, most downright strange. On the outside corner on Rue de la Chouette is the famous little stone carving of the owl, the symbol of Dijon, said to bring good luck to those who touch it with their left hand. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Le Consortium
The Consortium is known for its dynamic international approach to emerging talent. The art center moved to its new home in 2011, welcoming visitors to over 4000 m² of space, and has held more than 200 amazing exhibitions since. Its missions are the production and exhibition of contemporary art, as well as its dissemination and training. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Parcours de la Chouette
Following the 22-markers on the walking trail is a fun way to get your bearings around Dijon as you effortlessly learn about the local history and culture. Each numbered paver correspondents to a place of interest, and the whole trail can be done easily in two hours at a relaxed pace. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Musée Magnin
Museum
This is a mansion-sized time capsule. The home of collectors Jeanne and Maurice Magnin, the museum houses a rich collection of paintings, drawings and objects, which they left to the state in 1938. Under the terms of the donation, the home and every work of art must be exhibited exactly as specified by the Magnin’s. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Musée Archéologique
Museum
The museum traces the history of human presence in Burgundy. The setting is magnificent, in the old Bénedictine Saint Benigne Abbey, with artifacts and treasures from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Cathedral Saint Benigne
Cathedral, Church
The crypt under the church of Saint-Benigne is one of the oldest Christian sanctuaries in France. The mystical space retains the original layout while, above it, the ‘new’ cathedral was rebuilt in the 13th century. Recommended by Sylvia Edwards Davis
Alex Locker contributed additional reporting to this article.