An open-air market conveniently located in the Old Town, Gundulićeva poljana is the site of the daily bustle, with early-morning traders selling mostly seasonal fruit and veg, olive oil and locally made spirits. Cheaper than the supermarket, but pricier than the local’s market Gruž, it’s ideal for padding out your picnic basket before you head to the beach.
Significantly cheaper than the Gundulićeva poljana market in the Old Town – and much bigger, too – Gruž is the foodie centre for locals and in-the-know tourists. Traders come from all over, and here you’ll find vegetables from Herzegovina, or fish from Elafiti islands, alongside a plethora of homemade condiments, antipasti and cheeses. The market opens at 6am but aim to arrive by 7am for the fish and seafood.
This first-class deli sells the finest Mediterranean treats, with glistening fish, homemade jams, spreads and cheeses, but as its name would suggest, Uje specialises in olive oil. In particular, look out for Brachia oil from the island of Brač.
Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop
Situated on the city’s harbour, Gligora offers a prime selection of local cheeses, wines and olive oil. The cheese here is award-winning, produced by the Gligora family on the island of Pag. The Dinarski sir, a hard cheese made from sheep and cow milk, was the proud recipient of the World Cheese award. There’s also a superb selection of local wines, many coming from vineyards on the nearby Korčula island and the Pelješac peninsula.
For top-drawer local spirits and wine, olive oil, truffles, preserves and jams, Dubrovačka Kuća is the place to go. This pocket-sized store also has an upper floor dedicated to pottery and crafts from local artists.
Local producers of a world-beating wine, the dry red Plavac mali, the Krile family also run this cute little winery on the harbour. They put on regular workshops and tasting sessions where you can learn about winemaking and shipbuilding in Dubrovnik while snacking on delicious treats of prosciutto and Pag cheese. The family also produce sweet liqueurs with a dizzying assortment of flavours; honey, carob, cherry and lemon are local favourites. Be warned: the owners are overly generous with the free samples.