The Best Bars in Split, Croatia

The ancient city of Istanbul is split by the Bosporus, the west side is in Europe, the east in Asia
The ancient city of Istanbul is split by the Bosporus, the west side is in Europe, the east in Asia | Engin Yapici / Unsplash
Peterjon Cresswell

Split is a party town. Its bar hub is the rambling Roman palace in the city centre, filled with little venues tucked away down otherwise unpromising passageways or spreading out over enclosed courtyards. Most have tiny interiors and a scattering of seats outside. With the 2am closure there, the action then moves to nearby Bačvice beach or the venues around the Poljud Stadium.

Academia Ghetto Club

Consensus has it that the Academia Ghetto Club has long been the best bar in Split. Certainly for arty decor, bohemian atmosphere and usually for music, it would be hard to beat. These factors tend to attract a reliably savvy, relaxed crowd of Croats and travellers. In terms of location too, this venue wins out, set at the top of the narrow, invariably crowded bar-lined passageway of Dosud. In the daytime, its pretty front courtyard provides enclosed privacy from the constant tourist traffic.

Charlie’s

Marvlvs Library Jazz bar

Jazz, literature and history combine to create the unique atmosphere at this most unusual of Split bars. Set in the house where Renaissance writer and philosopher Marko Marulić was born, the Marvlvs Library Jazz bar is run by a collector of his works and avid jazz fan. Unusually for Split, here smoking is prohibited lest it damage the literary rarities, but the MLJB is no ivory tower for dusty academics. From opening time at 5pm, cocktails flow, a cosmopolitan clientele chatter and Ella Fitzgerald’s voice resonates. Occasionally a live act or reciting poet pipes up.

Po Bota

Part gallery, mostly bar, the Po Bota is an intimate venue hidden at the end of a passageway alongside the Milesi Palace on a prominent square in Split’s historic centre. While everyone flocks to busy pubs in the warren of streets behind, a local, chatty clientele congregates here, amid original art and a large tap of Moravian beer poured at ever more frequent intervals as the night wears on. This being the historic centre, 2am closing is the rule, but join the crowd and you might well find another party or gathering elsewhere in town.

Žbirac

Overlooking the city beach of Bačvice, Žbirac is patronised all day long by thirsty holidaymakers of all ages. Locals use it too as the prices are reasonable, the decor tasteful and the staff personable. Excitable noises of seaside frivolity, interspersed with shouts from nearby games of picigin, a local ball game played in the shallows, mingle with the well chosen background music. After dark, the action moves to the dance club further round the beach.

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