A 24 Hour Guide to Lan Kwai Fong

Tsui Wah is a cha chaan teng (tea house) that’s popular among locals for a quick bite to eat at almost every hour of the day. Most branches are open from early till late, but this particular restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong is a 24-hour operation. Its breakfast sets include the sinfully delicious beef satay with instant noodles, ham and macaroni in soup, scrambled eggs on crispy buttered bread and, of course, the famous Hong Kong milk tea. Their dishes are very reasonably priced so if you can’t choose one, order a couple of things to try.

After your late-afternoon tipple, take a walk down the Duddell Street Steps to see the four remaining colonial gas lamps left in Hong Kong. Both the steps and the gas lamps are Declared Monuments of Hong Kong, so while they might not seem like much, they’re kind of a big deal. Duddell Street runs between Queen’s Road Central and Ice House Street, and the set of stone steps at the upper end was actually built way back in 1875 and 1889. The perfect time to visit is after 6pm when the gas lamps are turned on and illuminate the street.

Skip the overflowing bars on the main strip of Lan Kwai Fong and head to this sophisticated spot instead. From the people behind NYC’s eponymous speakeasy, Employees Only brings a slice of America’s Prohibition era to Hong Kong. Staying true to the EO brand, the venue features retro decor, a well-stocked bar, and romantic candlelit tables at the back for dinner. Their inventive cocktails pack a punch, so make sure you line your stomach thoroughly before you start drinking. The baked macaroni, artichoke pancakes and fried Sichuan chilli chicken bites will do the trick. The venue is intimate, so get there early and keep your eyes out for the well-hidden, inconspicuous entrance.

This three-level rooftop bar, restaurant and lounge is the place in Lan Kwai Fong for a drink and a view. Make your way up to the top floor of California Tower to the newly revamped rooftop terrace, Sky Deck – the panoramic view of the Hong Kong skyline from here is breathtaking. It’s a great spot to start the night, but drinks are a bit on the pricey side. Take your selfie snaps here before the night descends into booze-fuelled chaos in one of the livelier drinking holes in Lai Kwai Fong.