The 10 Best Things To Do in Pigalle, Paris

If you’re new in the area, it’s basically written in French law that you need to visit Pigalle for your obligatory selfie in front of the famous red mill. But there’s more to the Moulin Rouge than just the cancan. It was the first building in Paris to be powered by electricity, in 1885, and it houses its own feather company, which was needed to keep up with the rising demand for costume changes and maintenance.

The true heart of SoPi is the Rue des Martyrs. This bustling avenue is a haven for foodies and gastronomes, a bit like Rue Montorgueil for the northern arrondissements. Stop by the Rose Bakery, an English café run by a Franco-British couple and whose gorgeous Instagram features mouthwatering dishes. Order a box of choux to go from Popelini, where crunchy, buttery pastry is stuffed with some truly excellent flavoured creams. Don’t miss Glaces Glazed, one of the best ice cream shops in Paris, with unusual flavour combinations (the Black Sugar Sex Magic is an intriguing mix of wasabi, ginger and dark chocolate), or Carmello for more traditional Italian gelati (and one of David Leibovitz’s faves).

Sadly A l’Etoile d’Or, regularly cited as the best candy store in Paris, closed down in 2022 when its iconic owner Madame Acabo decided to call it a day. Her distinctive blonde plaits and pleated skirt made for an imposing figure at first glance, but upon an inevitable first conversation customers were always lovingly guided around the store with explanations for almost everything in sight. While you can no longer enjoy Acabo’s presence or her candy, you can still enjoy the shop’s enchanting old-world atmosphere, which now houses the delicious creations of Alain Ducasse, making A l’Etoile d’Or as worthy a pit-stop as ever.

The best thing about Le Musée de la Vie Romantique (named after the Parisian Romantic Era, an artistic, intellectual and literary movement) is the charming adjoining café. Surrounded by roses and fuchsias, it’s an ideal place to spend your time on sunny days. The fresh and romantic atmosphere makes it easy to forget that you’re in the middle of one of the most densely populated cities on the planet. The museum itself was built in the 1830s by Dutch artist Ary Scheffer, whose friend the feminist writer George Sand spent many evenings here for Scheffer’s famous soirées. These two prominent figures are honoured with the museum’s permanent exhibitions.

Experience a bit of New York City in SoPi by visiting Buvette, a delightful American-style restaurant with a very New Yorkaise menu – and frequently included on top SoPi restaurant lists. Buvette was first introduced in New York’s West Village as an American’s take on a French wine bar, which has since come full circle to land back in Paris. All ingredients are locally sourced from the markets around town, and all are, obviously, French-inspired with a new world twist. Think fresh, crusty baguette stuffed with ratatouille and goat cheese, or foie gras mousse with onion and bacon. Of particular notoriety is Le Sandwich: a bacon, egg and cheese concoction that, to the French palate, is typically American. If you’re after something more substantial, the coq au vin is oft talked about, as is the selection of wines on offer.

When the Grand Pigalle Hotel opened its doors, it signalled the beginning of Pigalle’s transformation. Velvet and gold accents contrasting with rough stone walls bring a gritty art nouveau twist to this chic Italian-inspired bar on Rue Victor Massé. The subdued lighting and impressive international wine selection make this place best suited to an intimate rendezvous, especially when the soundtrack is so moody and dark. During sunny days, the big windows are often thrown open to let in a breeze, which pairs well with the fruity cocktails poured over crushed ice.

Of course, you can’t experience Pigalle without a little late-night tipple. Lulu White Drinking Club, named after a famous New Orleans madam and housed in a building that was once (appropriately?) a brothel, is a speakeasy dedicated to the green fairy. Regularly mentioned on lists of top bars of the world, Lulu White Drinking Club is hidden away at 12 Rue Frochot, marked only with a tiny gold plaque. If you can find it, you’ll discover an intimate, delicately illuminated Belle Epoque bar with many absinthe-inspired cocktails on the menu, and where feathers and fringes are standard issue.