Small in size, yet brimming with characterful B&Bs – the South American nation of Uruguay rolls out the red carpet for lovers of homespun hospitality.
Despite Uruguay’s tiny population of three million, the South American nation’s countryside, cities and beaches are bursting with original bed and breakfasts to rest your head. Wine aficionados can pick a night at a vineyard, those after an authentic rural experience can sleep on a working farm, and you’ll find original options in the Unesco-listed Colonia del Sacramento, worthy of the town’s time-worn colonial charm. Whichever you choose, these homespun B&Bs will take you straight to the heart of Uruguay and its people.
Pizzorno Lodge & Wine, in the buoyant wine region Canelones, is one for grape lovers who want to savor a stay beside the vineyards. Rural chic reigns in suites that all include a decked patio – ideal for whiling away sunsets with a glass of tannat. A winery tour is included for all guests, and you can also book into the winery’s restaurant to sample a menu that focuses on cooking with local ingredients.
A 20-minute drive from downtown Montevideo, Cane B&B is tucked into Prado, the greenest area on the outskirts of the Uruguayan capital. The snug rooms in this stylish early-20th-century casa are adorned with floral wallpaper and textiles, and a hearty breakfast awaits in the morning. Those keen to hone their barbecue skills can take advantage of the parrilla (grill).
A stay on this remote working estancia (farm) is idyllic for those looking for tranquility in the eastern Treinta y Tres region and an authentic insight into the Uruguayan countryside. Today, run by a family in its ninth generation, rooms at Los Plátanos form part of the original 19th-century farmhouse, with exposed stone and brick walls, and wooden gates for headboards. Locally sourced products are lovingly prepared for breakfast and for other meals on request.
Tucked into the rolling hills of Villa Serrano, Meson de las Cañas is a haven of tranquility and ideal for those in need of a peaceful break. Snug rooms in the 1947-constructed farmhouse sport exposed brick and stone walls. Enjoy the buffet breakfast on the welcoming deck overlooking the countryside before whiling away the day in the delightful outdoor swimming pool.
One of the few B&Bs to be found in José Ignacio – aka the hippest village and beach resort in Uruguay – make a beeline for this posada and its welcoming hammocks. Scandinavian style rules in cozy rooms, while upgrading to a superior suite ensures access to a private outdoor patio. A stone’s throw from La Juanita’s sandy shores, take advantage of the Posada’s beach service, which includes parasols and towels.
Just 400 meters (1,312ft) from Playa de la Viuda, this buzzy B&B is in pole position in Punta del Diablo – a cool beach resort and surfing hotspot. Check into a room or an apartment for up to four guests, which are cozy yet bright, with white wooden ceilings. If the waves get a bit much, spend an afternoon in a comfy hammock next to the bijou outdoor swimming pool.
Closer to the forest than the beach in Punta del Diablo, red-brick Hosteria del Pescador makes for an ideal nature-sited stay. The first lodging to be built in the fishing village back in the 1940s, today the Hosteria has well-appointed doubles, apartments and even a house for six guests on its books. After diving into the buffet breakfast, dip into the swimming pool, and enjoy the lush garden.
A fantastic central waterfront location in Colonia del Sacramento means Posada El Viajero is within walking distance of the Unesco-listed city’s main sites, such as the fascinating colonial Old Town and its cobbled streets, the lighthouse and the beaches. After a hard day of sightseeing, take a siesta in the delightful airy rooms, then catch the sunset from the roof terrace, accompanied by a glass of tannat.
The simple Scandinavian style and natural color palette at Charco Hotel will tick all the boxes for design fans. With fantastic riverside views in Colonia del Sacramento, its well-appointed and airy suites are designed with exposed stone walls and plenty of wood. Do make a reservation at Charco’s Bistro for lunch or dinner; tasty dishes include the rack of lamb and cabutia pumpkin salad.
A much-lauded B&B, La Posadita de la Plaza’s location – tucked away on the 25 de Mayo square in Colonia del Sacramento and a short walk from the Old Town – can’t be beaten. Run by Brazilian owners, Camile and Eduardo, who fell in love with the Unesco city, it has just three suites. Our choice? La Roja, for its painstaking decor, done up in collages and vintage typewriters.
For a serene break in the countryside surrounded by rolling hills and plenty of nature, book Posada La Serena in laidback Minas. Rural chic rules in delightful suites, bolstered by splashes of color, and breakfast is a continental affair. Communal spaces include the cozy living room, adorned with a vast sofa, as well as the indoor/outdoor bar with a fire pit to warm up cooler evenings.
At Alquimista, guests are booking into a restaurant with rooms rather than a straight B&B. Located in Carrasco, one of the loveliest neighborhoods in Montevideo, its six well-appointed rooms retain many original features from the building’s 1925 beginnings, such as stained-glass windows and a wooden staircase. Booking a table at the restaurant to enjoy the seasonal menu is a must, if only to brag about the short walk home (upstairs).