The Scandal Behind La Paz's Unbelievable Elephant Cemeteries

La Paz
La Paz | © Gary A. Valenzuela/Flickr
Harry Stewart

Bolivians love a good party, but unfortunately many people take the partying lifestyle too far and end up as homeless alcoholics. Scraping together the last few coins they can find in a never-ending quest to buy more booze, some of these destitute drunkards eventually find themselves checking into a hotel from which they will never return – The Elephant Cemetery.

Elephant cemeteries are a type of clandestine hotel/bar where alcoholics go to drink themselves to death when they have given up on life. These miserable pits of despair are the antonym of glamorous. Most offer nothing more than a dingy unlit room with cold cement flooring, bare brick walls, and a tattered old mattress for the wretched to lie on as they slowly pass away.

A homeless man in La Paz

Obviously illegal, elephant cemeteries trade entirely underground. Some Bolivians still dismiss them as being an urban legend – perhaps unwilling to accept the fact that such macabre places do exist in civilized society. But a 2014 report by Telemundo put any doubts to rest with shocking footage revealing their inner workings, and with interviews from those unfortunate enough to want to visit. The report states that alcoholics ask the proprietor to lock them inside until they have passed away. Those who change their mind can ring a doorbell and leave, only to end up sleeping on the hard concrete streets right outside. The police claim they’re doing everything they can to stop the proliferation of elephant cemeteries and frequently conduct raids to shut down the ones they find.

The Elephant Cemetery has even been covered in a film. A 2009 motion picture by Tonchy Antezana received widespread acclaim for its gritty cinematography and excellent performance from protagonist, Christian Castillo. The film tells the story of how a 33-year-old man, who has been addicted to alcohol since age 14, resolves to commit suicide in an elephant cemetery. Over the course of a week, he reflects on his miserable life which inspires him to keep downing more booze until the end finally comes. But dying from alcohol poisoning doesn’t happen quickly for a hardened alcoholic. Their bodies are so used to ingesting liquor that a serious binge is required for vital organs to shut down. This film has become a Bolivian classic bringing significant attention to this horrific underground reality.

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.

Culture Trip Spring Sale

Save up to $1,100 on our unique small-group trips! Limited spots.

X
Edit article