Constructed in 1910, this large urban park fell into neglect in the mid to late 20th century, a Juan Perón-built amphitheatre destroyed by arson in 1959, a Perlotti sculpture stolen in 1989, and the entire park suffering from decay. Fortunately, the park was restored several years ago, ending in 2009, and it has been restored to its original glory. Take some time out of a busy day to relax by the swan lake or check out the new amphitheatre, which has seen performances by the City Tango Orchestra.
Caballito’s historic mansions, primarily built in Fin de Siècle style, remain impeccably preserved to this day. Take a stroll along the verdant streets of the barrio to get a good look at the gorgeous architecture. One particularly notable home is the mansion of wine baron Ambrosio Plácido de Lezica, on Avenida Rivadavia.
This sports-themed resto-bar on Caballito’s main thoroughfare is the prime location to take in a big football match; things get lively, and when the match is over, the bar transforms into a popular disco. Seem incongruous? Perhaps. But it’s fun.
Locos por el Fútbol, Rivadavia 4751, Buenos Aires, Argentina, +54 11 4901-3310
Historically, trams were the primary form of public transportation in Buenos Aires, and this fascinating museum delves into this now out-of-use system. The museum, which is fun and educative for all ages, also features tram rides on Sundays. All aboard!
Whilst most likely not actually the oldest pub in the city, The Oldest has been around for a while. With good food, beer on tap as well as a selection of cocktails, and a cheerful and welcoming atmosphere, this is a perfect place to unwind after a long day of exploring.
The Oldest, Juan B. Ambrosetti 31, Buenos Aires, Argentina, +54 11 4902-3188
A walk through this indoor market feels like a blast from the past; originally built in 1889 as an open-air market, it was given art deco-style roofing in the 1930s but otherwise has not changed a bit. Many of the stands hawking produce and meat have been family-owned since the market’s inception. The market is such a draw that it brings in shoppers from all corners of the city who are keen to snag fresh and tasty groceries.
Opening times: Monday-Saturday 7.30 am-2 pm and 5 pm-8.30 pm, closed Sundays.
Mercado del Progreso, Av. Rivadavia 5430, Buenos Aires, Argentina, +54 11 4901-3038
More than just a bookshop, Cobra Libros does indeed offer a well-curated selection of local and independent books which can be bought or even rented, but it also serves as an art space, offering everything from exhibits to workshops to film screenings and concerts. In the summertime, they even offer a bike rental service.
Opening times: Monday-Saturday 2 pm-8 pm, Sundays 4 pm-8 pm
The owner of this small corner bakery was born and raised in France, and his creations fuse his heritage with that of his adopted country’s. For a break from typical Argentine cuisine, stop by to pick up a homemade croissant, scone, or one of his renowned pain au chocolats to takeaway.
Opening times: Tuesday-Sunday 7.30 am-7.30 pm
Head over to the western edge of Parque Centenario to visit this museum, open since 1937, which houses exhibits on various species of plants and animals that currently and historically have lived in Argentina— but the highlight, of course, are the dinosaurs. Schedule in advance to book an English guided tour.
Opening times: 2 pm-7 pm
By Madeleine Bazil