Pure Thai Cookhouse, New York
Dishes from northern, central and southern Thailand come together in a snug space more akin to a hallway than a restaurant. None of which detracts from the pleasure of the place – or its plates. Expect hand-made ribbons of noodles, glossy with oil, morsels of crab, pucks of beef, and crisp green snow peas. Order a couple of noodle dishes for the table – they come sautéed or swimming in bowls of soup – along with vegetable dumplings, plump and juicy with tofu and spinach. For good measure request the (very spicy) green papaya salad tossed with dried shrimp, tomato, peanuts, long beans, thai chili and lime. That should see you through the afternoon and/or evening.