Coyoacán is a vibrant neighbourhood of Mexico City, perhaps best known for being the birth, life and death place of popular artist Frida Kahlo. However, it is also one of the best areas in the city for food – from street food, to desserts and everything in between, these are the top places you should be eating at next time you’re in Coyoacán.
A famed spot in Coyoacán is the sprawling market, which is known for its fantastic food, Mercado de Coyoacán is a classic dining destination and one at which you can’t go wrong. While you can grab a version of pretty much anything you want here – think tacos, gorditas, enchiladas – the place to be is the Tostadas de Coyoacán stall. This popular spot sells crispy tortillas (tostadas) topped with all manner of delicious food combinations, such as octopus, ceviche and cochinita pibil.
If you want somewhere a little less hectic than the market, instead head to Café Negro, a welcoming spot just off the central garden. Alongside the typical roster of chai teas, Americanos and lattes, they also serve up some delicious sandwiches in a variety of flavour combinations. Still not satisfied? Treat yourself to a dessert in the form of a soft pretzel or a churro.
If you’re a fan of organic food but not so happy about the prices normally charged for such dishes, La Casa del Pan Papalotl is a fantastic middle ground option. Drop by for the breakfast packets, which include juice and coffee, or just order whichever of the other well-prepared and exquisitely sourced dishes that takes your fancy. We recommend trying out any one of the artisanal breads that they dish up here. RESTAURANTS
Your classic Mexican fonda,La Talavera has quite the reputation in Coyoacán and is the restaurant to visit if you’re looking for well-prepared, refined and traditional Mexican dishes and comida corrida. Pozole, enchiladas and aguas frescasare all on the menu at La Talavera, which can be washed down with a refreshing national beer. Check out their Facebook page for regular menu updates.
For something a little different in this ostensibly Mexican neighbourhood, El Merendero is a restaurant putting a twist on the typical dining experience. This 1950s themed restaurant serves typical American diner dishes, such as delicious hamburgers, rich milkshakes and fluffy pancakes. With quirky names for each dish, it certainly makes for an unforgettable experience in Coyoacán.
Most well-known for its tortas (sandwiches), La Barraca Valenciana is a stalwart of the Coyoacán dining scene and continues to be so – with good reason. As the name suggests, they also serve up some Spanish specialities, such as paella. The perfect option for those who are tiring of tacos, La Barraca Valenciana also has an impressive selection of lesser known chelas (beers).
Another famed Coyoacán restaurant is Corazón de Maguey, attracting visitors as well as locals through its doors on a regular basis. Owned by the same people who run Los Danzantes (another great Coyoacán option, while we’re on the subject), this informal spot is always plenty busy. With a selection of Oaxacan dishes, it’s great if you want to try something a little more unusual. Don’t forget to try some mezcalwhile you’re there. DESSERTS
If all things cold and creamy are your bag, then La Casa de los Helados is the place for you: it does just what it says on the tin and serves up innumerable ice cream options. Combine your flavour selection with a waffle, stick it in a cone or even just eat it from a simple tub. Whichever one you go for, you won’t be disappointed. The banana split here is particularly good.
Technically a café, you may wonder why we’ve placed La Ruta de la Seda with the ‘dessert’ options. Well, to put it simply, the cakes, pies and sweet snacks that are on offer here are divine and make this place well worth visiting for the puddings alone. Try out a slice of green tea cake on your next romantic date for two here.
Churros are ubiquitous across Mexico City, and in the region of Coyoacán the situation is no different. However, if you want to grab a coffee and a seat with your sugary, doughy treat – rather than picking one up from a street vendor – the original Churrería General de la República is the perfect option. With all kinds of churros from stuffed to simple, sweet to savoury, it’s a great place to pick up a bite.