Drive north from Baja California Sur’s most famous city and celebrity favorite, Cabo San Lucas and 60mi (97km) later you’ll reach Cabo Pulmo national park: a paradise for naturalists and scuba fanatics. Overfished and overexploited in the 20th century, the area is finally enjoying a rebirth ecologically. Among its wonders is the oldest of three reefs off the coast of North America. Estimated to be around 20,000 years old, it’s a vibrant riot of flapping, flickering and feeding flora and fauna. Among the visitors are giant rays, turtles and whales.