Mercado De La Merced: A Glimpse Into Mexico's Most Famous Market

Chilean poet Pablo Neruda famously wrote in his memoirs that he “went from market to market for years, because Mexico is in its markets.” The country’s capital boasts more than 300 markets, of which the Mercado de la Merced is one of the most well known and popular. Located east of the historic center of Mexico City, La Merced is still the largest traditional retail market in the city, and is also one of the oldest.

History

The neighborhood of La Merced and its market have long formed a commercial hub for the city. During the early colonial period, traders would travel from far and wide to do business in the area. In the 1860s, a permanent market was built on the grounds of the monastery that had once dominated the area. By the 20th century, the market was the largest wholesaler in the country, providing goods to shopkeepers and market vendors throughout Mexico City. In the 1960s, the Central de Abastos took its place as the major wholesaler, but La Merced remains the largest traditional market in the city.

Modern organization

Outside of the market building you’ll find a tianguis, or market, that continues up the narrow streets leading to the main plaza. Here you’ll find off-brand clothing, watches, and toys, among other products.

La Merced is also renowned for its street antojitos, or snacks. Here, you’ll find almost every kind of Mexican food imaginable, from tortas to tostadas, elote, and enchiladas.

The principle of “the more packed the booth, the better the food” works as a general rule when you are picking where to eat. The caldo de gallina, or hen stew, is a particular specialty, as are the tacos, which are sometimes topped with French fries.

More adventurous eaters will be keen to know that vendors also sell fried insects, including grasshoppers, ants, and worms.

Gusano worms on sale in La Merced Market

Market tours

La Merced can be difficult to navigate and tour guides have started offering trips through the market. Eat Mexico offer a market tour that last four hours and includes sampling some of the best fresh tacos and antojitos at the market. The tour is a good option for travelers who want to learn more about Mexican culinary culture or feel intimidated by tackling the bustling market by themselves. Its layout can be very confusing and for travelers without fluent Spanish, a local guide can be really helpful.

Corn on the cob at La Merced, Mexico City

Since you are here, we would like to share our vision for the future of travel - and the direction Culture Trip is moving in.

Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.

Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together.

Culture Trips are deeply immersive 5 to 16 days itineraries, that combine authentic local experiences, exciting activities and 4-5* accommodation to look forward to at the end of each day. Our Rail Trips are our most planet-friendly itineraries that invite you to take the scenic route, relax whilst getting under the skin of a destination. Our Private Trips are fully tailored itineraries, curated by our Travel Experts specifically for you, your friends or your family.

We know that many of you worry about the environmental impact of travel and are looking for ways of expanding horizons in ways that do minimal harm - and may even bring benefits. We are committed to go as far as possible in curating our trips with care for the planet. That is why all of our trips are flightless in destination, fully carbon offset - and we have ambitious plans to be net zero in the very near future.