Keep it simple and give yourself time to adjust to the altitude (Mexico City sits at a ridiculous 2,250ft above sea level) by starting off with a visit to the key landmarks of the historic centre.
9am: Have a quick breakfast at El Popular, and tuck into their legendary – and enormous – plates of chilaquiles. After you’ve fuelled up the obvious place to begin exploring is at the zócalo. This is the central square of Mexico City and is ringed by important edifices, such as the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Palacio del Gobierno. If you’re lucky, you might be there on a day when there’s a big event taking place on this wide-open gathering place.
11am: Afterwards, head off to Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes for some much needed culture. Opened in the early 20th century, this art deco building is an icon of the Mexico City skyline and boasts a huge collection of murals by some of Mexico’s most prolific artists, as well as international artworks and well-curated temporary exhibits. We recommend spending at least a couple of hours there.
1.30pm: Get some lunch on the go from any of the street vendors that can be found in the nearby Bosque de Chapultepec, or on the streets leading up to it. It’s a brief walk to the park from the museum and you can enjoy the sights of Paseo de la Reforma on your way. Find a bench and watch the squirrels scrabbling up and down the trees, on the lookout for kind tourists offering them food. After you’ve eaten stroll around the park – it’s the largest inner-city green space in all of Latin America. If you have the time and the inclination, take the quaint train up to the Castillo de Chapultepec and marvel at the exhibits – and the impressive stained glass windows – that can be found in this historic building.
7.30pm: Try and make it before sunset to the Torre Latinoamericana for some drinks in the Miralto bar (and food in the restaurant if you’re feeling peckish). The best time to visit this towering Mexico City building is just before the sunsets, so you can soak up the views by day and night. If you’re female, head to the ladies’ bathrooms and grab the cubicle that has the completely glass wall for a restroom visit with a view!
Take in a distinct but equally as fascinating part of the city on day two, by heading south to Coyoacán.
9am: Get a speedy breakfast at the excellent Café Avellenada in Coyoacán which offers some of the city’s best coffee as well as a selection of cakes and pan dulces.
10am: Pay a visit to Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s old house which is now a museum containing her personal possessions and some of her most recognisable artworks. Make sure to beat the crowds and either have a pre-bought ticket or be there early, as the queue can be incredibly long. It opens at 10am most days.
12pm: Your Casa Azul ticket allows entry to Diego Rivera’s old house too, now known as the Anahuacalli Museum. Head there straight afterwards and make sure to go right up to the terrace and take in the views it offers over Coyoacán.
2pm: Grab lunch at the Mercado de Coyoacán. This fantastic indoor market was said to have been frequented by Kahlo when she was alive, and it has a great assortment of foods to choose from. Either eat as you browse or head to the neighbouring Jardín Centenario to enjoy your lunch alfresco style. Alternatively, give seafood a go at the famous El Jardin del Pulpo.
3.30pm: Pop over to the Leon Trotsky Museum before it closes and take advantage of this amazing and weirdly underrated Coyoacán destination. Guided tours are available in both Spanish and English.
5pm: Return to the Jardín Centenario and spend the rest of the afternoon enjoying the sunshine and atmosphere, and exploring the adjacent plaza, Plaza Hidalgo. Perhaps stop by Centenario 107 for a drink before you return to your accommodation.
Another day, another neighbourhood – or two! Day three should be spent soaking up the very different atmospheres that pervade La Roma and Condesa respectively, two of the trendier areas of the city.
9am: Grab breakfast at the amusingly named Chilakillers, which can be found on the bottom corner of the Condesa district, in neighbouring Tacubaya. Their namesake chilaquiles come in some delicious – killer you might say – combinations.
Chilakillers, Av. Revolución, Tacubaya, Ciudad de México, México, +52 55 5264 2818
10am: After breakfast, wander up through Condesa and admire the surroundings. This is one of Mexico City’s nicest neighbourhoods and is worth just strolling around and enjoying. Full of boutiques, shops and cafes, stop off at any that take your fancy and enjoy a less hurried day than the previous two.
Proyectos Monclova, Colima 55, Roma Norte, Ciudad de México, México, +52 55 4754 3546
2pm: By now you’re probably a bit peckish, so go over to the Roma branch of the excellent Cafebrería El Péndulo and browse the books while you wait for your food to be prepared. This quirky destination is a firm favourite with visitors to La Roma and it’s easy to see why.
3.30pm: Round off your afternoon by browsing some of the excellent boutiques that can be found in this area. We especially recommend Goodbye Folk, Naked Boutique and 180˚ Shop, however there are a limitless supply of options if these don’t take your fancy.
Goodbye Folk, Colima 198A, Colonia Roma Norte, Ciudad de México, México, +52 55 5525 4109
Naked Boutique, Córdoba 25, Colonia Roma Norte, Ciudad de México, México, +52 55 6378 9568
180˚ Shop, Colima 180, Colonia Roma Norte, Ciudad de México, México, +52 55 5525 5626
8pm: Pop back into La Roma after a quick outfit change and test the waters at some of their excellent and super cool bars. A comprehensive list can be found here.
Take a trip to Xochimilco on day four and enjoy one of Mexico City’s most popular cultural experiences; the lively trajinera trips down the canals.
9am: Pick up some breakfast from a street vendor or a café of your choice in the city centre; you’ll be spoilt for choice and there’s guaranteed to be something for all tastes.
10am: Head to the underrated building of the Secretaría de Educación Pública, more colloquially known as the SEP. You may have to pre-book for a tour of the building, but you’ll probably be able to get in either way. A tranquil enclave away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it’s always free of tourists and has some of Diego Rivera’s most impressive murals. Take some time to enjoy them.
12pm: Follow the directions on the metro to go right into the south of the city towards the neighbourhood of Xochimilco, where the trajineras (canal boats) can be found. It’s a long journey, but definitely worth it. When you arrive, follow the directions in the neighbourhood that point towards the embarcaderos, and don’t forget to pick up some beers and snacks for the trip! Also make sure to negotiate the price, as the vendors will inevitably try to overcharge initially. The canals are full of boats selling pulque, beers and even food, so have some change to hand also.
Finally, after giving yourself some time to get used to the ridiculous altitude of Mexico City, you can dedicate day five to that most touristy of pursuits; visiting Teotihuacán and climbing the pyramids.
7am: Given that it can take around an hour to get to the pyramids by bus, make sure you’re up early to beat the crowds and can get there for the specified opening time. This way, you get the best pictures and the most tranquil experience possible. Plus, you don’t have to wander around this entirely unshaded archaeological site in the midday Mexican heat. Make sure to take a good few hours to enjoy the site, and hire a tour guide if you prefer to have a more thorough explanation.
1pm: You’re probably hungry and thirsty by now, so drop by La Gruta for some lunch before you catch your return bus back to the city centre. This restaurant is right next to the site and super easy to find, plus it serves up a selection of Mexican favourites.
7pm: Head over to Arena México for the final evening of your trip to Mexico City and enjoy the luchas libres. An interesting cultural experience that is worth indulging in at least once, you’ll be left with anecdotes for years to come.
Arena México, Dr. Lavista No. 197, Doctores, Ciudad de Mexico, México, +52 55 5588 1561